will fitting spring pads (of a lower setting) on a w124 require any adjustment? or are they just plug and play?

Camber will change in the negative direction - probably not enough to require alignment adjustment, but you may not know until you actually measure. Toe and caster could also change slightly.

Your best bet is to budget a four wheel alignment. On my 19OE I have the front camber set at max negative and front caster at max positive, equal side to side. I just set the eccentrics to push the pivot points as far outboard as possible, then backed off the maximum side to equal the opposite side and ended up with -0.75 deg. camber and 10.5 deg. caster.

It definitely improves steering response and reduces understeer, and there is no uneven tire wear with 7500 mile rotations. I checked the rear, and it was very close to OE nominal value, so I have never made any adjustements at the rear.

Duke

thanks for the info Duke.

if ever, how do i adjust the camber/caster? can a "normal" wheel alignment center do this? or do i have to get new parts to adjust?
i don't seem to remember ever seeing anything that can be adjusted... all the links as far as i remember are not adjustable... help

btw, is it a bad idea to run without the spring pads?

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

I believe the 124 alignment scheme is identical to my 201. The front control arm bushings are both tied to the chassis with eccentrics. The front primarily affects camber and the rear caster, but there is some interaction. Toe is adjusted by normal adjustable tie rods. Any competent alignment shop should be able to accomplish a four wheel alignment on these cars at reasonable cost as it is all done with adjustable eccentrics and tie rods/toe links (at the rear). No shims! Rear caster cam be a major deal, but most equipment probably can't even measure it, so just get the rear camber and toe-in right.

The spring isolators also serve as anti-squeak pads. Though many cars do not have them, eliminating them may cause noise. Also the spring isolators are formed to accept the spring ends, which may not be the case of the isolator seats in the chassis.

If it were me, I would not consider running without the OE spring isolators.

I do all my alignment with an inclinometer and tape measure and achieve very good results. Getting into the details is far beyond the scope of this thread, but if you have a shop manual and a good understanding of suspension geometry (and geometry in general) and how wheel alignment affects various dynamic response modes you can consider doing it yourself. Otherwise just go to a good pro and have it set at factory spec.

Duke

duke,

thanks for the input. I had my 190E done today, the left front wheel was too far forward in relation to the right one. it had been that way since i got the car... no wonder the car was wandering to the right... anyway, i had a good look at the entire process so now i know what those "eccentrics" are. they're the same with the 124 most probably. the service was relatively cheap, it cost arnd 8 USD. here in the philippines.

you're right, i think its not a god idea to run without the pads, it may wear out the mount or something.

thanks again

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project