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#1
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How to repair this Dremel
Well, it is a chinese knockoff of a Dremel and labeled MD95. The motor runs perfectly but the collet will not turn. When I took the cover off, there were broken remains of maybe a plastic gear that connects the collet gear to the elec motor gear. I am guessing.
In any event the two gears look like they just about sit on top of each other and maybe something (rubber band thingy?) connects them so they spin together. This entire thing is probably worth $2 but I like to fix rather than throw away. Anyone have any idea how to connect these two gears to make the collet spin? See pics. (I looked on line but this one is not made exactly like a real Dremel.) Last edited by tyl604; 06-24-2017 at 03:57 PM. |
#2
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![]() Life is too short. |
#3
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Yup; do not disagree. In fact while I do not believe this, I just looked up a Wen rotary kit with flex shaft for $2.51 w free shipping on Ebay. Must be a scam.
Just bored today. |
#4
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Repaired
I am sure no one is interested but this failure is common to Dremels. It is called a flexible coupler (known at Ace Hardware as 3/8" plastic tubing) and you can order it from Dremel. (It simply connects the motor to the collet.) However I went down to Ace and got about two inches of the tubing for free.
Used the heat gun to soften it and put a piece about half an inch long to connect the main motor and the collet. Bingo; works like a charm. Now I just need a project where I need to use it. One pic shows the tubing and the other shows it repaired - but I do not think you can see the new flexible coupler. File this under "Too much time on my hands." |
#5
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Buy a used Foredom, wonderful machines. I have a series R, the motor itself is larger than that entire tool.
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#6
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I already have a real Dremel kit with a long flexible shaft and attachments. Just repairing the small knockoff for fun.
Thanks for looking; there has been an astounding lack of interest in this thread. |
#7
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Interesting that there's a flexible coupling in there. My dremel is from the late 80s and is a direct-drive setup. The collet is fastened directly to the motor shaft. Probably why it's still going nearly 30 years later.
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#8
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Must be an auction and not a buy it now.
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#9
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Some of the cheap Chinese knock offs similar to Dremels in function. Have more power and seem to last fairly well so far. I have a couple of them. As well as assorted dremels. Around 5.00 each on sale a few years back.
Having more power allows you to load them heavier without dropping the rpm as much. That is what kills them. |
#10
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That's an easy part to 3D print. You can even use something super strong like carbon fiber infused plastic.
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#11
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My guess is that Dremel designed a flexible coupling for safety purposes - it would break in a bind instead of twisting your wrist around. I have been hit in the wrist more than once with the handbar on Habitat's big power drill when it slipped and circled around and clonked me. No fun.
Assume a 3D piece would be stiff and not workable. Really the clear plastic tubing from Ace Hdw seems to work fine. And one inch of it was free. |
#12
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Large powerful reduction drills are something I learnt to fear. Unless some precautions are taken.
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