This seemed like an open-discussion type question: My dad bought a '95 S320 over a month ago, but it is still sitting at his friend's house three hours away (in his defense, my sister had a baby two weeks ago, so the family's not been focused on cars). My brother in law is planning to take his friend's car trailer up there, and, with my dad, trailer the car home. It only has 10,400 miles (and bad tires) and my dad does not want to drive it the distance home. My question, for those of you with trailers, is where do you tie down the car? I know the car has the tow hitches in front and back, but I don't feel too confident just hitching the car down with those ... should he buy some additional straps and secure the wheels as well? Apparently the guy who owns the trailer uses it to tow his Mustang around, and I guess my brother in law will get advice from him, but if anyone else has trailered a W140 and can offer tips, that'd be great.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

The tow loops are plenty strong. INcredibly strong actually. When autocrossing my 123 I used them almost exclusively time and time again. I also would use the lower control arms in front and the half shafts in back if I had an unusual strap situation and needed another option to hook to. To me if you can get them to work the loops are the best.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

If you are going a long way & at speed, I find it best to tie the wheels down via the suspension (LCA's are good) so that the car can bounce a little on its suspension if you hit rough road. I have seen damage caused when a car is jarred down enough to loosen the tie-down & then bounces back up.
Make sure the car is positioned on the trailer properly. Centered & forward enough to place just a little weight on the hitch only. You dont want the towing cars steering going light or the back wheels of the towing car having too little weight on them.
If the trailer is not inclosed its worth attaching a rug over the front of the car on the trailer to avoid paint/windscreen damage from stones.
Slow & steady is the best way home!

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Thanks guys! I will pass the info along to my dad and brother in law. I'm hoping to see this car in my driveway, soon!

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

If you plan to attach some type of material to the front end of the Mercedes as Layback suggests, make sure that it fits snugly and that the wind will not cause sections of the material to ripple directly against the paintwork. I would go so far as to wash and dry the section of the car expected to be covered to prevent dirt from being rubbed into the finish.

The U-Haul I rented last time I trailered a car used nylon webbing over the front tires to secure the front. Rear tiedown was accomplished by chains around the trailing arms, IIRC.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Just had my SD towed chains front and back, nylon towing straps over all 4 wheels. Obviously make sure parking brake is on...

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

All cars have holes in the chassis for tie-down. Most are oval but they can be other shapes as well. I prefer to use these and cinch the car down tight. You want to make the load/trailer essentially one unit for maximum safety.

Low cars with tight suspension can be secured by the tires without a problem since they don't bounce around a lot. Sometimes I slip nylon straps through the wheels or use "over-the-tire" style straps.

7-10% of the total trailer/vehicle weight should be on the tongue or the trailer will sway at highway speeds.

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

I did not know that. Thanks for the info. Most of the vehicle hauling I've done has been with tactical vehicles or construction equipment equipped with prominent tie-down provisions. Bulldozers haul easy (no bouncy tires or suspension worth speaking of). Graders suck.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Normally you need J hooks to use the holes and I don't have them on my BMW or MB. Wheel straps if the wheels have openings. i would avoid the tow hooks on an MB, Porsches have 2 in the front and are really strong. MBs only have 1.

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MB-less

I made a bit of a sweeping statement. I should have said most vehicles. My E300 has the holes in the lower A arms.

I want to get a set of "keys" (J hook, R hook, T hook) but I haven't need them badly enough to put out the money for a set of 4.

This site has lots of good stuff and ideas for strap down's:

http://www.awdirect.com/truck-tie-downs/

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

"It only has 10,400 miles (and bad tires)"

'Somebody PUT bad tires on it to sell it?
OR
The Alignment is CRAZY?

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Prolly old from sitting......10K miles, man.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

How about "the tires are 16-17 years old"

Or - "Due to the low miles, it's clearly been sitting for a while and my dad thinks it would be prudent to get it checked out before before making a road trip."

I think she posted the ad or pics earlier, a search might show something.

Put the trans in neutral. Park is for a parked car. I've seen the parking lock get broken from the constant shocks as the car moves or bounces around.