After watching non-mercedes dealer change my oil and paying a substantial amount; have decided to change oil myself in the future!! My questions are: Does the suction of oil from crankcase have any downside vice taking out drain plus; and what kind of tool(s) do I need to unscrew oil filter cap and filter?? Is anything associated with an oil change that require a torque wrench...and finally where can I purchase items needed to manually change my oil?

Get a "Topsider" or similar oil extraction device from a boating supplier like West Marine. The filters come out easily, it should be hand tight. You may need a wrench to start the filter turning. A large adjustable wrench will do for that. Done carefully this is a white coat job. No mess at all. The toughest part is separating the oil filter cartridge from the cap. Do that in a plastic bag to prevent spills.

Oh, yeah. Loosen the filter first to allow the oil trapped in the filter area to drain back. Then start the suction.

...Alan
98 E300DT <- Easy
96 G300DT <- Easy
63 230SL <- Oil bath, every time.

Honestly though, how much dirty oil, sludge, and leftover particulates do those topsiders leave behind in the oil pan?
~D.J.~

I had the same concerns. The simplest test is to open the drain after suction. Last time I tried this, not a drop. Any of the MB approved oils and filters should remove or suspend all the gunk in the oil. If there is so much gunk in the system that the oil can't hold it then something is wrong and needs to be fixed.

I've not tried this on my 230SL, mostly because the dipstick tube is really narrow. It is by no means a modern engine and probably does have gunk on the bottom. But I don't think that the flow of oil out the drain plug will really drag much of the gunk out with it. The only real cure for the gunk is some high speed travel with a fully warmed up engine, then quickly drain (or suction).

Admittedly I'm a convert :-)

...Alan

Thanks for reply(s). Forgot to mention the non-mercedes dealer had oil all over the place by changing via the drain plug...thought there has got to be a better way!! Also appreciate the concern about sludge and other particles left in the bottom of the oil pan...also a concern of mine which was answered. My ML55 uses synthetic oil and the oil filter case in on top right-side of engine; may have to also purchase one of those oil filter tools? Got a good deal on a few cases of 5W50 oil, and filters throught the internet, about ready to undertake oil/filter change. In my earlier threads the question was put forward about more frequent oil changes than FSS and the feedback was excellent. You can probably tell I am a novice Mercedes owner and this forum is the best place to raise questions and get honest and reliable feedback. Many thanks.

Somewhere on this forum there are excellent step by step instructions for chaning the oil and filter in the ML. If I can find it, I'll get back to you here.

Just found the ones I was thinking of. They are not in the forum section, but are in the DIY section. Look down and see "Oil Change - Part 2" and see if that helps.

DUTCH,

Thanks for including that link (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html). It is a neat looking device. Particularly the ability to dispense the oil. That is the chief weak point in the topsider: you have to pour the oil out. That takes a steady hand when holding 16lbs of hot oil.

...Alan

mrkiser

The 5W50 Oil is no good for ML.
This engine dont need very tick oil.
very important for the engine to have very fast flow of the oil.
the formula 5w50 is very wrong for ML.
no all synt.oils are good.many of them are very bad.
look fo europiean formula oil.229.3 and 229.5 - MB spec.
5w40 - 0w40 and 0w30 with MB spec.229.5 very good.
I use on my ML 10w30 AMSOIL.110 000ml.eng.not burn the oil.

Regards

The viscosity used will vary depending on ambient temps in your area. Mr Kiser, being say in GULFPORT MISSISSIPPI (sp?) MAY find it desireable to use a "ticker" oil than somebody living in say CANADA.

Gilly