![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
My question concerning a jump pertains to a jump I know I will be doing on my ML 320 at the end of this week. I have had it sitting since 7/27, and
will returning to where it is parked and will need to start it. I am assuming the battery will be dead or extremely weak. Last time I had to jump this ML it caused a problem with the igition switch. Some how the key stopped being read when placed in ignition to start. < I remember them saying a red light should flash near the radio if the key is reading. > As I recall it would crank but not start. Anyway ended up at the dealer where they took about 5 days to figure out the problem. Where I have the truck now there are no MB dealers only BMW. ( As for as anyone who would have a clue on the ML or MBZ I would have great doubts... maybe BMW but ??? ) So to avoid the same problem occuring please advise. 1> should I even attempt to jump the vehicle, or am I setting myself up for what happened last time. < is that common is jump starting problem ? > 2> If a jump start is not a problem, is there a special way to do it. ? 3> Should I just take the battery out and have it charged before even trying to start it to avoid any possible issues. << Seems obvious this might be the way to go. ... >> I do have radio code for the vehicle. A note, I have a CLK that needed a jump a few months back. MBZ service came and the tech used the brief case type jumper and I have had no issue like the ML issue i had. Others thoughts or experience with this is greatly appreciated. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
![]() |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I checked out the site / link provided. Sounds like the only sure way
to go is to use the booster, ( these may or may not be available to me - vehicle is in Acapulco ), or B) take the battery out, charge it & put it back to avoid any surge issue caused by jumping. As mentioned in my initial post, I did fry a key once. Let me say I am 100% positive I did neg to neg, pos to pos. Actually this is how I did it as I recall. 1> ML battery dead on cranking; 2 > second vehicle idling, place neg on idling vehicle, then neg to ML, 3 > place pos on idling vehicle, then to ML; 4 > cranked and ended up at the dealer ... with the key / ignition switch issue. << I am sure I would have left the key in the ML ignition during the cable hook up process...big mistake ?? >> ** If anyone sees anything I did that was obviously wrong let me know. The above link gave lot of info, but sort of left the jury out on a cable to cable jump. I know it sounds simple ( have jumped lots of cars in 50 yrs. ) But as mentioned the ML ended up at Sugarland MBZ. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Jump starting is thoroughly explained in the Owners Manual.
__________________
Kent Christensen Albuquerque '07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster Two BMW motorcycles |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Jump issue
Kent,
Thanks for the reply. My owners manuel got ripped off some where along the way. If you or anyone else can give me a quick synop of the procedure as lad out in the manuel it will be appreciated. I am going to have to deal with it on Thursday ( 10/16 ) afternoon once I get to my place there. The vehicle has been sitting since 7/27, so it will be about 2 1/2 mths. Battery was strong < normal > when I parked it. Anyone had experience with how long the MB batteries last when parked. I know they are quite big and if the only draw down is the clock I could be ok ... Though it has been the rainy season there, so quite moist & humid. Of course I will post the out come. But any info length of time or longest anyone else has gone between starts would be nice to know. Thanks |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
My dad taught me many years ago....
positive to positive, negative to GROUND Really should be in that order. I borrowed most of the following from this site http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/a/bljumpstart.htm 1. Attach one end of one cable to the dead battery's positive terminal. 2. Attach the other end of the same cable to the positive terminal of the battery in the starting vehicle. 3. Attach one end of the other cable to the negative terminal of the battery in the starting vehicle. 4. Attach the other end of that cable to the engine block of the car with the dead battery. (The reason not to attach final connection directly to the battery is that the last connection will produce a small spark. Explosive gasses come out of batteries. Don't want to ignite them with the spark.) Reverse the order precisely to disengage.
__________________
![]() Behind every great man is a great woman. Behind every great woman is a great behind. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I can see where a completly dead battery could cause a few concerns. When you manually unlock the truck (which is never a really "good" thing to do NORMALLY, unless the key has a dead battery or the vehicle battery is dead), I believe you may get the alarm going off AND the engine disabled, as the AAM may assume the truck has been broken in to, once you hook up the jumpers. SO, be ready to lock/unlock the truck with the remote key. You should also make sure the key is inserted into the ignition AFTER there is battery power, as once again the imobillizer won't be active until after there is some battery voltage present. So in effect, what I want you to do, is assuming the truck is dead (no unlocking with the remote), go ahead and manually unlock the door. Then pop the hood, and hook up the jumper cables (if you want to try starting it before jumping, fine, but then remove the key from the ignition). Hook up the cables and anticipate the alarm will go off, you can then do a lock/unlock with the remote. Then you put the key in the ignition and the truck should start fine.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
If you want to be a little safer, turn off the engine on the jumper car before connecting the jumper cables. Use the jumper car's battery by itself (no engine running) to start your car. That way you don't have the over charging voltage surging into your dead system with the potential of frying something.
The attached scan is from the 2007 ML Owner's Manual. Later on in the instructions, it does say to start the engine of the donor vehicle and have it running at idle; but only after connecting the positive terminals only. The negative cable is attached after the donor engine is idling. Personally, if I were afraid of frying something, I'd use the donor's battery without the engine running.
__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold) 1984 LWB 280GE (Sold) 2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat" 2007 ML320 CDI (Sold) 2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold) 2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed) 2014 ML350 BTC 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order) Last edited by DUTCH; 10-13-2008 at 07:20 PM. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
No problem starting ...
:p
got back to acapulco punched the door unlock button from key, doors opened, turn to on position, held pedal down for about 5 seconds, and ml started with no issue whatever. So for sure the battery can sit for 3 mths and start up easily. ( at least if it is good when parked. By the way it is a mbz battery ) so i am glad the jump issue never came up. |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|