I'm thinking about having the 19" AMG monoblocks on my 140 S class chrome plated. Any recommendations? How much should it cost? The lowest I've heard is $150 per wheel. They also have some curb rash. The 300E was sold the day that pic was taken

Thanks!!

------------------
Chris Singh
1983 300D
1993 500SEL brilliant silver w/ AMG monoblock II 19"
http://benz.mp3car.com http://stormworks.max3d.com

[This message has been edited by flipSyde (edited 04-19-2000).]

From your pic it seems you must have experience with chrome plated wheels. I do not recommend it unless you are keeping the wheels for a relatively short term. I had a 1988 300TE with the factory wheels that had been triple chrome plated (copper/nickel/chrome). After about 5 years the tires started to slowly lose air. It turned out that the base metal (aluminum) of the wheels was corroding under the plating at the bead (seating surface for the tire) of the wheels. On investigation it turned out to be a common problem. After that point I had to remove the tires yearly to clean the bead. I tried to have one wheel replated (cost $125.00), but was disatisfied as the chrome job looked good, but in stripping and cleaning up the wheels much of the fine detail of the wheels was altered. You could talk to Greg Wood at R.W. Wood in the LA area. His firm has been performing this work for many years and can advise you on the trade-offs. Sorry, I don't have his number right now, but you might try the Porsche Club website.

Hey Chris, I live in D.C. and my Chrome Carlsson's from Tirerack started to pit and wear off after the first winter. Do not ride them during winter months or expect to rechrome every 1-2 years. My chrome is being removed as I write. I wanting them high polished and clear-coated but Wheel Collision say that polishing is not recommended after removing chrome because the aluminum becomes too porous after all the heating and acid treatements. I am getting a custom metallic silver paint with clear coat. Have no idea how it will look. Suggest a high polish but this is also more fragile and may need you to rub/polish stains on occassion. Rennsport says clear coat will not stick. Other's say clear-coat will (or clear powdercoat) but it will dull somewhat.

I remember reading a post in this forum, maybe about a year ago(!), that stated that chrome-plating reduces the strength of an alloy wheel to such an extent that they are usually no longer eligible for Germany's tough TUV standards rating. This on top of the wear and tear hassles - which you would know about anyway (must have hurt to see the 300E go...). Something to think about.

The chome process weakens the metal by approx 30%. Polished wheels can vary so much depending on the level of polish. If you just machine a wheel it can almost always be clearcoated (factory "8-holes" 94-95, EvoII's, etc) However, if you machine then polish the living hell out of a wheel to where the finish looks nearly like chrome (as Rennsport offers for their "polished" finish) then the paint will not stick. Were I doing it, I might have them machine and clearcoat.

Hope this helps...Lee

Mercedes issued a Service Information in April of 1991 in regards to chrome plating alloy wheels. The problem is that the alloy must be coated with copper prior to plating. The difference in Electro-Motive Force between the aluminum alloy and the copper results in electrolytic corrosion with the base metal(wheel)being the sacrificial anode.
The effects are much worse on cast wheels, but is still not a good idea even on forged alloys.
Regards,
Randy D.

------------------
W.R.Durrance
ASE Master Tech
Mercedes Tech 20 Years
68 250SE
68 SAAB 96 Ice Racer
69 300SEL 6.3
70 300SEL 3.5
81 300TDT

Randy is exactly correct as to the reason for corrosion occurring. This was also written up in the STAR in the same time frame. However, the wheels I had problems with were forged AND triple plated with copper as the base layer. As Greg Wood explained it, the humid climate with it's frequent rains, year 'round, on the east coast posed a much greater problem than in dry Southern California. Hence, my wheels failed. It was a shame, as the early 124 chassis cars had a much nicer wheel than the later cars (the holes were machined rather than cast in, were oval rather than rectangular, and according to MBUSA, forged rather than cast). My wheels were effectively ruined, BUT, that was some five+ years after they were chromed. So, the question is, how long will you have the car, or the wheels? I keep my cars forever, so I would never attempt it again. Interestingly, I understand that some cars are coming from the factory with chromed alloy wheels (Lincoln, some Cadillacs, I believe).

Chris,

They all got good points. If you want shining look, just go for polish....

Andy Kuo

------------------
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1992 Mercedes-Benz 400SE
<LI>Moonstone Grey/Black Leather
</UL>
ICQ#26950002
Mercedes Owners ICQ ActiveList ID#61730549
Mercedes S-Class Page
http://drive.to/akry
http://akry.homestead.com