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#1
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Bundt to Ronal Lug Sizes
I know this should be in the wheel and tire section, but no one ever goes there.
I'm putting Ronals on my W123 for the summer and want to get some new Lug bolts to do so as mine are beat up pretty bad. When I was fitting the wheels, the lugs for the Bunts sank pretty far into the Ronals and looked funny. My questions are: what size lugs do I need? Are the lung lengths based on the wheel width or are they standard to car type? Do all Mercedes use the same thread size, just different lengths and materials? Should I just stick to the default size and not worry about them looking "funny?"
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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD) |
#2
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This is a question I'd like to know the answer to also.
Have a pair of Bundts that are slowly (ever try spraying in freezing weather?) being refinished, hopefully in time for summer.
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I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
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#3
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Are you referring to something like this:
Not sure if this is the site Brian had a problem with, but these can be found at:Lakshore tire and wheel ![]()
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#4
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If you need those extra-long lugs pictured above I have a brand new set that was sent to me instead of the lugs I needed.
You want the lugs to protrude from the back of the wheel by 17 mm or so. Too long and they will damage the parking brake inside the rear hub, too short and they will not be strong enough. There is also the issue of the seat. Stock MB wheels use a ball seat, while many aftermarket wheels use a cone seat. The lugs pictured above (and the ones I have) have a ball seat. Take a look in your wheel's lug holes to see if you can tell what shape the seat is. Edited to read 17mm of protrusion.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine Last edited by bgkast; 03-10-2009 at 08:42 PM. |
#5
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I need a set also. The guy I bought the wheels from gave me a set of longer lugs, but the thread area was too long. I'm sure I could grind off some of the end or something to make them work, but I'd rather get the right ones instead. Seems like the pictured bolts above are a pretty good price at $22.99 for a set of 20.
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
#6
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Ronal R9's use a cone seat not a ball
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1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard) 1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2 Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped) 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D |
#7
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You should be able to get cone seat lugs at any place that sells aftermarket wheels. It's the ball seats that are hard to find.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#8
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So then, what total length and thread length should I have if I want 17mm behind the wheel? Do I want 12mm or 14mm lug bolts and should they be 1.25, 1.50, or 1.75 inches? I got these measurements from the link in post #3 when I went looking for conical lug bolts. I guess I could measure the distance through the wheel and then add about 13 to 15mm? Or should I add more to compensate for what's behind the wheel? Would it make sense to measure the W123 OE lug bolt for thread length then add whatever I need to be even with the Ronal's? Finally, what is the difference between a 12mm x 1.25 inch lug bolt and a 14mm x 1.25 lug bolt? What does the 12/14mm refer to?
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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD) Last edited by Squabble; 03-20-2009 at 11:13 AM. |
#9
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You want a thread size of 12x1.5. To determine the length you need take one of your bunt lugs and insert it in your new wheel, then measure how far it stick out. You want 17 mm or so protruding from the wheel and the bunt lugs have a 30mm shank. You can use this info to calculate the length of the bolt you need.
Here is my thread on the subject:What Lug Bolts do I need? I purchased some lugs from Lakeshore Tire on ebay, however they sent the wrong ones. They are currently working on correcting the issue.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#10
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Don't use the bundt lugs for the R-9s. Too short....
Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#11
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"Too short" as in not enough threads going into the hub or "too short" head of bolt is deep in the rim and is hard to get a socket on it?
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
#12
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And the Answer is......
After all the research and the help, I ordered from Lakeshore Wheel and Tire, the wrong size....
![]() So, I'm putting on Ronal R-9's with an offset of ET23, 16x7 front and rear. The correct lug bolt you need to do so is: 12mm x 1.5" Conical Seat Lug Bolts with a thread size of: The 27mm lugs are 2mm too long (19mm sticks out the back) and the 23mm lugs are 2mm too short (15mm sticks out the back). There were no 25mm conical seat lug bolts that I could find for this set up, but those would be the perfect size. I ordered the 33mm lugs because they were closest to the W123 lugs that measured 30mm. But with the correct conical seating, they stuck out the back much further, thus making them the wrong size. I plan on just cutting these down and grinding them to make them work rather than dealing with the shipping / returning hassle. Hope that helps all who are fixing up their cars. Don't let the old people around here tell you stock is best... ![]()
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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD) |
#13
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Lakeshore was very good about exchanging when they sent me the wrong bolts.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#14
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This sure looks like a PIA to get set up with Ronals. So did anyone ever solve this mystery? I's sure like to know before I waste 300 mile trip and $300.
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1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles Euro model in the USA 1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004) ![]() New Factory Mint Green paint Palomino int 1982 240D (Steak dinner for two) ![]() |
#15
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post number 12 is correct, just make sure you're hub centric. learn about my latest mistake here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-wheels-tires/249928-check-out-my-ronals-sad-story-post2173042.html?posted=1#post2173042
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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD) |
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