What should I look for in a 380 sl (1981 1983 1984)

[bpittman13]

About Me: I know the cars basics thats about it. I've had classic cars before but never a mercedes of any sorts. My best friend is handy with cars mostly Land Rovers.

About the Cars:
1981 380 sl red tan interior both tops goods 125000 miles. I have seen it yet. Its in driving condition, ac doesn't work interior is in fair condition. I don't know if timing was changed to dual.

1983 380sl black on black think it may have a leak on hard top. soft top has a tear. 178,000 miles. Drives good suspension and brakes are good. interior fair. AC blows but warm(maybe needs charging)

1984 380sl blue with white interior soft top has tear in seam. He thinks fuse maybe blown lights went out. Antenna up/down works maybe a cylinder leak. 162,000 miles. I don't know if timing was changed to dual

About the Prices:

1981 $4000 negotiable (I haven't spoken to him yet waiting on a call to see how negotiable and to take a look at the vehicle)

1983 $3000 kinda firm at the price (but cash hasn't spoke )

1984 $3100 but states he very negotiable. But I haven't went out to take a look at the car yet only pictures

My questions:
1) How fair are these prices?
2) What/Where should I look? (Rust prone area)(timing chain)....
3) Are these some of the better years of production or should I look into others?


Thanks

[rowdie]

'84 and '85 are standard dual row. All of them need the timing chain system serviced, dual row or not, if it has not been recently done.
'81 has the ACCII climate control which is problematic.

[bpittman13]

Thanks! Do you think these are reasonably price? Also is the mileage something I should be overly concerned about?

Thanks

[rs899]

^^ What he said. Also, be careful and take time to check the tabs on the bottom of the subframe where the lower control arm bolts. MB screwed the pooch and they crack. If that happens when you are driving ( and when else would it happen?) you won't have a good day. 72-80 450s are covered by recall. 86-89 560s were redesigned. 81-85 380s and euros - SOL.


Prices seem fair, assuming these are not "basket case" cars. You shouldn't expect a show winner for those prices, but something that's not an embarrassment at least.

Mileage is getting up there. Ours has 155k now ( time for a badge!) but doesn't burn any oil and runs quite well considering a Dodge Neon has more horsepower...

I would look for a 560, unless you are sure the front subframe has been addressed.

[bpittman13]

So would the tabs be a deal breaker or would that be something to immediately address if purchased?

[rs899]

If the car already has a broken tab, I would walk away unless you can get it for real peanuts because at that point you will have to pull and replace the subframe. If the tabs are intact, you can get someone to weld gussets on- might cost $3-500 (?). The added gussets are not as strong as the redesigned 560 solution.

[bpittman13]

Ok, I've driven the 83 and the suspension seemed good but I will take a look under. This one maybe the most ready but it has the highest miles does $3000 seem to be ballpark

[rs899]

$3000 is really very little money, considering you would be hard pressed to buy a used Saturn for that. However, parts and labor will kill you on these cars, unlike a Saturn. If you are planning to turn it into a concours ride, buy a better one and take advantage of another sucker.

I would think twice, then think again , before I would buy a single row chained R107.

[bpittman13]

Ok the 83 has already been changed to a dual. ($3000)

The 84 should already be a dual correct?($3100 but very negotiable so i'm thinking ballpark 22 or 25) but I haven't seen it.

So my next check on both should be the frame? ... oh forgot the owner of the 84 did state that it was some rust in the spare area.(should I stay clear of this one and not even bother?)

[rs899]

Yes, 84 is a dual already. You are on your own on rust. I don't know where you are- here in Florida I wouldn't put up with it, but if you are in the rustbelt it might be different.

It's impossible for me to give you an accurate opinion with the few data points you have given me.

Presumably you have eyes and ears. Get the facts from the owners and the cars. Anything rubber on these cars must be replaced (or must have already been replaced). Timing chain attention and subframe are expensive, as are just about everything else on these cars. Look at some of the parts prices on this site to get an idea of things that can and will go wrong. Then try to figure out who is going to be able to fix this beast besides yourself.

[rowdie]

The front subframe issue. You really need to get it on a rack to check it. The rear mounting for the lower control arm.
C/R107 Front Sub-Frame Recall Information - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

[bpittman13]

UPDATE: mileage is 156,000 for the 1983 so a little lower than I originally posted.

[meltedpanda]

you need to buy my 450SL, you will have noooo worries - and the engine is much better


back to your post. I would drive them , if they feel sloppy ( they should not ) then look at all the rubber under the car and in the suspension , rust is an issue, especially floor boards, pull up the carpets. Ask for service records

[bpittman13]

Ok, how about a 73 450 what are its major quirks?

[rowdie]

Poor fuel mileage. Electronic injection that parts are becoming difficult and expensive to find. Same subframe but if it is U.S. model it should have been fixed already.

The climate control system is simpler to service.

I would look for a 280SL. Dual overhead cam 6. No timing chain guide issue that I am aware of. Easier to work on. About the same power and fuel mileage as the U.S. 380SL. Subframe is the same as others.