Console Wood Restoration

[Bryan Harter]

I decided to completely strip the console wood on my 107, found the color is in the polyurethane and not in the wood.

My wood had some severe cracks so I thought I would strip it completely and hoped I would not destroy the fine veneer layers underneath.

I striped, washed and lightly sanded the wood. Then set about trying to find a color to match it with.

Not done yet, I've got the color right, now just need to build up more clear. The piece matches the original ashtray almost
perfectly.

Slowly but surely making progress.

Attached are pics.

[Bogeyman]

What did you use to get the match?

[Bryan Harter]

I used a minwax stain, I think the color may change over time on these things, so I wasn't too worried about a match, but my ashtray is in good shape (1 crack) so I may strip it as well.

[jim16671836]

What did you use to strip the polyurethene??? thanks

[Strife]

Originally Posted by jim16671836

What did you use to strip the polyurethene??? thanks

I really don't think that the clear was ever colored. The original stain (if any!) sank into the wood and then was cleared.

AFAIK, that clear material is basically automotive clear coat, the same as is on a two-stage painted car finish. I know of no chemical that can EFFECTIVELY strip it off in one shot without damaging the veneer or even the wood itself.

I think the way that refinishers handle this is with very fine grit (>800~1000+) and just get to the veneer. It's OK to do this if just the clear is cracked. If the veneer itself is cracked, or you go through, you are done. Many of my spare pieces are noticeably warped from being in a car for 25+ years, and "going through" is going to happen, unless you are careful; and then, of course, it's still warped and that's going to be a problem if you want the result to look like the original. Clear can only be done so thick and then block-sanded; you do not want a shiny, warped piece.

In the above cases, you have to re-veneer it or...

I've been experimenting with three-dimensional (dip) printing - where ink is floated on water and you dip a part through the ink. The "base color" is simply a paint. on bare (but sealed) wood. Here are some interim results. I'm still working on this, and you are seeing a piece that has NOT been clear coated yet. IMO, you are NOT going to get original-quality results with any clear out of a can - it takes automotive two-part urethane, which is hard to work with and hazardous unless you have the right equipment (like a full separate air source).

Keep in mind that I had a very specific reason to go "dark" - I wasn't trying to keep to the original color - but note: Even if your pieces aren't cracked, if they are 25+ years old, they have faded A LOT - see the photo showing the original color of the ashtray where it had been protected under the metal of the ashtray assembly.

[Bryan Harter]

My console had some big chips in it. When I lifted a chip off the piece, it was not clear but rather colored. The stripped bare wood is much lighter than the finished piece was at the start.

I cannot say that mine was original, but I do believe that to be true as all 3 pieces matched very well.

That said, how to recreate the finish is entirely up to you. I think there is more than one way to "re-skin this cat".

I think my results speak for themselves as far as the pieces matching the color of the ashtray...the edge of which is visible in one picture. The other picture would not upload for some reason, it shows both side-by-side.

I found 3-4 coats of colored poly seemed to work well, laid on very thin. It is much more challenging to use a colored poly vs. staining the wood and clear. I think the color matched well.

[Bryan Harter]

Jim - There are a few good strippers out there. Moisture is going to be your enemy. Don't want anything that is too wet or that will affect the veneer glue and cause it to lift. I've had to reglue many pieces on my 500E where they curled, from heat, not the stripper. (the sliding covers for the storage boxes between the seats).

Jasco is one I have used with good results. It will remove the factory finish on the wood in 20 minutes, may take a second coat.

It's mean stuff. But doesn't hurt the wood. I have used it on wheels, it is safe on metal and
cleans up pretty easy. I've used it to strip polished wheels where the clear has been damaged. Areas that you can't mechanically strip with media or a rotary disk of some sort.

[Strife]

Originally Posted by Bryan Harter

Jasco is one I have used with good results. It will remove the factory finish on the wood in 20 minutes, may take a second coat.

It's mean stuff. But doesn't hurt the wood. I have used it on wheels, it is safe on metal and
cleans up pretty easy. I've used it to strip polished wheels where the clear has been damaged. Areas that you can't mechanically strip with media or a rotary disk of some sort.

I agree, Jasco is absolutely the best of the bunch. Temperature is critical. Strippers seem to take 5 times as long at 60 degrees than they do at 80.

[Strife]

Originally Posted by Bryan Harter

My console had some big chips in it. When I lifted a chip off the piece, it was not clear but rather colored. The stripped bare wood is much lighter than the finished piece was at the start.

I've only done burl; I wonder if they are finished differently from Zebrawood. I will say that the burl clear I've peeled off( vs. stripped or sanded) had noticeably yellowed.

[dugald]

The easiest way to remove the varnish is to soften it gently with a heat gun then delicately lift the finish with a blunt putty knife. Comes right off.

[Reno4u2]

Originally Posted by dugald

The easiest way to remove the varnish is to soften it gently with a heat gun then delicately lift the finish with a blunt putty knife. Comes right off.

+1 on this method

[mach4]

A method that works really well is just to soak in acetone overnite. Here's a piece that just needs a little more soaking to get the rest of the finish off. Acetone is really volatile, so using a plastic container with a tight lid is required. No scraping or putty knives needed. It just falls off.

[Bryan Harter]

Interesting...I will try the heat gun next time.

The Acetone scares me a bit. I would fear the glue might seperate on the veneer layers. But worth noting!

The example of stripped poly/varnish shown above is seems to be dark rather than clear. That was how my wood looked as well.

[Mick Lauder]

How did you remove the lumber/wood in order to star the refinish project?

Mick Lauder
85 560SL
and yes I am doing better than I derserve.....

[Bryan Harter]

Depending on the piece you want to remove (AC vs Shifter) probably start with removing
the ashtray.
There are a few different configurations for how the console wood is attached. Mine had
2 screws up under the ashtray that held the whole thing in place.