Replacing Carpet - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mbboy · #1 09-17-2008, 08:12 AM

I was wondering how feasible it would be to replace the carpets in my 380sl with a heavy-duty, commercial carpet you can buy at Home Depot and most carpet stores, since it would be a lot cheaper than buying pre-cut replacement carpets -- (app. $150 vs > $300)

Seems to me that it would be fairly easy to cut using the old pieces as templates, and I can have it bound for only $1/ft. The only potential problem I can see is that it has has a rubber backing, which makes it higher and less flexible than the original. But it's also plusher, and it seems like I could peel the backing off if I have to, as it's apparently not glued on too tightly. I was wondering if anybody here has ever tried this, and the pros and cons of doing it.

The other option i have is to buy 10 yards of a "German-velour that a local auto upholsterer will sell me for $150, and, then, cut it to fit. But it's definitely not as heavy or as plush as the commercial stuff. So any advice anyone could give me would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

MBboy

Chad300tdt · #2 09-17-2008, 08:32 AM

I'd use automotive carpet. It's easier to contour to the interior and it's not that expensive.

If you're not concerned with an exact color match you can get it in rolls at auto parts stores or order it online at places like this:
http://www.automotivecarpet.com/catalog/yardgoods.php

rocky raccoon · #3 09-17-2008, 08:39 AM

I have done that on other cars a couple of times and it came out well. The tricks are:

1. Do not use rubber backed carpet. It will not lay smoothly. Use a jute-backed carpet such as used in your home. Cut an underlayment pad for it if needed.

2. When you cut the carpet, cut from the back side, not the front. That way the edges will not be visible since you will cut only the backing and not the pile. By the way, I did not get my edges bound. Most of the edges end up under interior trim anyway.

Great rainy weekend project.

Graham · #4 09-17-2008, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbboy

I was wondering how feasible it would be to replace the carpets in my 380sl with a heavy-duty, commercial carpet you can buy at Home Depot and most carpet stores, since it would be a lot cheaper than buying pre-cut replacement carpets -- (app. $150 vs > $300)

Seems to me that it would be fairly easy to cut using the old pieces as templates, and I can have it bound for only $1/ft. The only potential problem I can see is that it has has a rubber backing, which makes it higher and less flexible than the original. But it's also plusher, and it seems like I could peel the backing off if I have to, as it's apparently not glued on too tightly. I was wondering if anybody here has ever tried this, and the pros and cons of doing it.

The other option i have is to buy 10 yards of a "German-velour that a local auto upholsterer will sell me for $150, and, then, cut it to fit. But it's definitely not as heavy or as plush as the commercial stuff. So any advice anyone could give me would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

MBboy

I bought a set of carpets on eBay from a place called qualitytopsandinteriors (aka known as GermanautoTops.com or email kush213@yahoo.com). Cost was $359. Quality was dreadful. Almost all pieces had to be modified to fit and edging was poorly done. Company was uncooperative when I tried to get driver side rplaced becaujse heel pad was bubbling up.

I wish I had bought the carpet and had them made locally to fit. Most pieces only require cutting out with no edging. Using your old carpets will ensure you get pieces that will fit! Mine did not.

The floor carpets have underpadding - you would have to re-use your existing ones. I did for 3 pieces, but the drivers side was shot - I made a new one by laminating two layers of the 1/4" black foam that is sold at Home Depot in the flooring section.

Good Luck!

dugald · #5 09-17-2008, 03:26 PM

Nobby talks on www.Benzworld.org about doing this.
Try a search there.

Strife · #6 09-18-2008, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I'd use automotive carpet. It's easier to contour to the interior and it's not that expensive.

If you're not concerned with an exact color match you can get it in rolls at auto parts stores or order it online at places like this:
http://www.automotivecarpet.com/catalog/yardgoods.php

Absolutely true. It's also designed for "outdoor" use and definitely easier to shape.

I'm certain that if you cut it, you can get a local upholstery shop to put edging on it, and still be very good money ahead. But not that much carpeting on the interior of the SL really "needs" edging in visible places. One thing that does come to mind is the flap behind the console.

I've recently made friends with a fabric shop. They have a lot of upholstery stuff and special purpose tools. I must have been the only man in the place

But I got:

1. Felt for the inside of the boot compartment
2. Elastic straps (almost perfect match) for the metal part of the convertible top
3. vinyl to recover the kickpanel near the fusebox (a remnant) better than new

I don't think I spent $10 in total.

mbboy · #7 09-18-2008, 12:30 PM

Thanks for all the valuable feedback. After considering it, I decided to buy the roll of velour from the auto upholsterer, as the price, color, texture and thickness were all right on.

After looking more closely at the carpet, and talking to the upholsterer who did a number of 107's over the years, it seems like the only pieces I really have to bind are the 2 front mats, the 2 rear mats, and the small piece just behind and between the seats that covers the transmission tunnel.

The long pieces that run along the rocker and under the seat are barely visible. And I should be able to fold and glue the carpeting on the horizontal rear shelf around and under it -- unless there's a reason why I shouldn't? All the other pieces seem to tuck under those or something else.

The questions I still have are:

(1) Can I safely pry the large pieces on the console off with, say, a putty knife, then glue the new piece to the console, or directly to the transmission tunnel, without removing the console. Or do I risk deforming the console's lips by doing that?

(2) Do I have to remove the rear side panels to remove the large, vertical, rectangular piece between them, or would it be possible to glue a new piece right on to the old one, and insert the edges under the side panels?

(3) Should I use a basic contact cement, or is there something better?

Thanks for all the input so far, and in advance for any additional advice. Needless to say, this group has been an incredibly valuable tool.

Regards.

MBboy

Dee8go · #8 09-18-2008, 01:05 PM

This place seems to be pretty good for upholstry fabrics, head liners, carpet, and other things like that.
http://www.worlduph.com/material.htm
I believe they are all color-matched to manufacturers' colors, too. At least the things I've bought there were.

Strife · #9 09-23-2008, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbboy

(2) Do I have to remove the rear side panels to remove the large, vertical, rectangular piece between them, or would it be possible to glue a new piece right on to the old one, and insert the edges under the side panels?

(3) Should I use a basic contact cement, or is there something better?

Thanks for all the input so far, and in advance for any additional advice. Needless to say, this group has been an incredibly valuable tool.

Regards.

MBboy

2. The carpet is not hard to remove after removing or at least loosening the side plastic panels, but this is not a big deal, as long as you remove the chrome pillar caps and ALL the screws on the side panels. Don't lose them or mix them up. I think you can do it without removing the top handle (there should be enough room under the unscrewed plastic to work with the carpeting without entirely removing the piece).

3. I used plain old contact cement on the rear deck but the trick is not to use too much or too little. You don't want it to soak through but you want to use enough to work. Edges are important. Have lots of mineral spirits around to remove any excess. Personally, I would tend towards not using enough, because you never know when it will have to come off (for example: the flap behind the console, which you have to lift to remove the seats).

On the rear deck lid, only if you are very picky about originality would I avoid wrapping it around. On my 560, I'd buy the original piece. On my 380, I didn't. You might have a problem if your carpet is thick, in which case you would have to shave the wood thickness a little. That wood is absolute c*** (by design, no doubt designed to disintegrate in an accident) and I pulled off some of the top of the plywood, which I filled.

I used extremely cheap, extremely thin "speaker carpeting" which was an investment of $8.00, in black. It doesn't exactly match the rest of the carpet and would be absolutely unsuitable for foot traffic but this is hard to tell and I've learned that even BLACK can fade over 20+ years. My dogs sit back there, and it is even harder than regular carpeting to get dog fur off of.

Really follow the instructions on contact cement. Do both surfaces, and then wait before mating them. If you follow the directions, it works great; if not, it's a horrible mess.

mbboy · #10 09-24-2008, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strife

2. The carpet is not hard to remove after removing or at least loosening the side plastic panels, but this is not a big deal, as long as you remove the chrome pillar caps and ALL the screws on the side panels. Don't lose them or mix them up. I think you can do it without removing the top handle (there should be enough room under the unscrewed plastic to work with the carpeting without entirely removing the piece).

3. I used plain old contact cement on the rear deck but the trick is not to use too much or too little. You don't want it to soak through but you want to use enough to work. Edges are important. Have lots of mineral spirits around to remove any excess. Personally, I would tend towards not using enough, because you never know when it will have to come off (for example: the flap behind the console, which you have to lift to remove the seats).

On the rear deck lid, only if you are very picky about originality would I avoid wrapping it around. On my 560, I'd buy the original piece. On my 380, I didn't. You might have a problem if your carpet is thick, in which case you would have to shave the wood thickness a little. That wood is absolute c*** (by design, no doubt designed to disintegrate in an accident) and I pulled off some of the top of the plywood, which I filled.

I used extremely cheap, extremely thin "speaker carpeting" which was an investment of $8.00, in black. It doesn't exactly match the rest of the carpet and would be absolutely unsuitable for foot traffic but this is hard to tell and I've learned that even BLACK can fade over 20+ years. My dogs sit back there, and it is even harder than regular carpeting to get dog fur off of.

Really follow the instructions on contact cement. Do both surfaces, and then wait before mating them. If you follow the directions, it works great; if not, it's a horrible mess.

Thanks for the advice, Strife. I'll keep it in mind.

Dee8go · #11 09-24-2008, 08:31 AM

Did you check out the link I posted above? The material they sent me was an exact match in color and weave to the OEM material. They'll send you a sample if you want to verify a match and they were very reasonable.