Have an '88 300TE and would like a V-8... I have access to insurance sales (wrecks) and need info on potential donors. 560 S types seem plentiful but would I be better off with a 500E for wiring compatibility, mounts, all the little things that really make or break swaps? Any pointers on model years of 560s and elec. compatibility? Anyone done this?

I've got a 350 Chevy in a 914 Porsche... don't make me hybridize this 300TE! It looks like a 5.0 Ford would fit....

ABH3

500SEL V8, they have less problems than 560s.

500E you would need all the computers, the wiritng isnt nearly the same.

400 horsepower in a 300E is a nightmare, it breaks everything.

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

Sounds like a great idea! I think the ford engine is a better fit, but ask Tobias he is the real expert on that subject.



Cardude,

i say go ford as well...cheaper on the wallet (if thats a concern) -easier to maintane i would imagine, upgrade - teh whole deal (obviously) - the cost you save on the powerplant you can put back into the wrecked MB parts (when it happens) get a donor car (ie mustang for 800 bucks) or a crate GT40 motor for about 3k at ~ 320hp and do it up...in my opinion, i would think about the steering gearbox - that would be the only real problem/thing to change that i can think of...tobias went rack and pinion, badbenz.com has a gt rack, i m working on the same...its do able. then supercharge it.

keep us updated - Jake

We're putting a Ford Cobra motor and Getrag manual in a CE right now. You have to convert to rack & pinion and it's a nightmare. Either know how to create proper steering geometry on your own or have a big checkbook ready to pay someone. Lots of custom parts and engineering required.

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-Carl
Principal, BergWerks

Carl is right


option A

option B

you decide.

im going option A and its been ongoing for some time now, ...in and out of other things.


Carl - are you guys installing a 5.0 HO, mod 4.6, or the new SC? if its the latter id be real interested in seeing it in width wise...but id like to see picts no matter what - of any conversion. - Jake

how about a 400E engine?

__________________
'O=00=O'
bmw 2002.
long live the legend

By chance, is this Getrag a 6-speed?


If so, we need to talk ... soon.

__________________
1992 500E (Daily Driver)
2004 Porsche RUF 955 Dakara 550

Sorry, it's Borg-Warner 5-spd.

__________________
-Carl
Principal, BergWerks

Carl,
Do you know if the BW/Tremec T5 and T56 share a common body to bell housing bolt pattern? In other words, can a T56 replace a T5 as direct bolt-in?

Thanks.

__________________
Glen Tokuhara
Beauty & the Beast and the wagon that could!

Im not Carl, so i am not speaking for him here


as far as a direct bolt over, i believe it can be done as most "conversion kits" for this cost about $2500.00

i have not speced it out, or done full research - but they sell coversions.

Hope this helps
Jake



whats going on with abh3s 300te?

And doing that was the most time consuming part of my 5.0 installation into the 190. Made my own bumpsteer gauge to find the correct location of the steering rack used....VW-Golf/Jetta,
reason being the pivot points of the tie rods are the same distance as the control arms and the MB pump drives it. The MB pump used has a built in pressure regulator adjustable to the feel you like and by using Quantum tierod ends, they fit the 124 steering arms. This is a rear steer rack for a front sump motor
installation. For the 190 had to cut and rethread 2.5" off each tierod for the proper length, hard to believe. I also shortened each steering arm 1.5" and lowered it .75" to retain lock to lock steering as a rack has shorter travel than recip. steering. The arms were then re-heattreated to the proper Rockwell hardness.

As Carl mentioned, big bucks if you take it to someone that knows how to do it!!

Tobias MB
190-5.8

PS: Now have a Richmond 6 speed for it to use in the OneLap.

If you don't want a "bastardize" wagon, I'd go for the following:

1) C36 engine & tranny swap (drop-in mechanical; spend some time on electrical);

2) twin-turbo C36 (minor mechanical and major electrical);

3) 5.6L M117 engine (CIS just like your 1988 M103);

4) 5.0L M119 engine (minor/major mechanical and major electrical);

However, if you do go with "bastard" project, I too, would suggest a 5.0L+ Ford V8 (perhaps a superchaged Cobra engine) and tranny.

More importantly, Converse Engineering (http://www.converseengineering.com/) has already done this and a turnkey project where you supply the parts/donor car could be had for probably close to $6K.

Check them out.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG (option #1: http://www.silcom.com/~neilv/sportline )
1993 500E

From Converse Engineering:
"This is a 1989 Mercedes 300 TE wagon that was recently completed. The original Mercedes straight 6 was replaced by a 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII 4.6L 32 valve engine and transmission. This is essentially the same motor found in the later Mustang Cobras. The engine is a perfect match for the Mercedes as it is incredibly smooth and free-revving. "

oooohhh yeah, thats what im talking about.

im going to go visit some local guys i found that supply parts and also create muttmobiles.

they talked of some 190s, and other 80s MBs and BMWs - ill try to get photos

they do all V8, not SC 6s like me.
Jake

Well, it looks like 500e wrecks are fairly rare around here... back to the 560sel question. These are basic questions from someone more used to American Iron...

Any '86-'91? Are there major electrical/CIS changes among these models? Will the 560SEL computer accurately drive the 300TE tach or is it a matter of "trying different resistors"?

When do these engines need a timing chain, etc..? (Easier on the concrete than in the car!) Isn't there a suspension hydraulic pump on some of these and, if so, can it be removed without rearranging all the accesories, using different brackets, etc... or just avoid these models?

Where should I look for good wiring diagrams (i.e. no Chilton!)?

Any thoughts about exh. manifolds, the usual rub with swaps, as I don't have a stack of MB manifolds to dig through?

Will I really need to ditch the steering box for a rack?!?

Thanks for all the great input.

abh3