Yes I noticed they don't give a price for the dry sump system. My guess it if you have to ask it's too expensive. But I am interested in the remote oil filter plate and the water pump plates. Still expensive and I could make those but with design time for one unit probably would not be worth it. But I would love to know what a set of heads cost.

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John Roncallo

I'll probably skip dry sump due to costs. I'll baffle and trap door the wet sump pan and run an Accusump to cover situations where the oil pressure still has problems. This is considerably cheaper than a dry sump setup, and I should be able to do it all for less than $650.

For the water pump, its possible that I have some flanges cut out and run a remote electric pump, which I've had great success with in the past. The same company that makes the water pump I've done so well with also makes thin-mount brushless electric fans that are capable of some insane flow numbers for their size.

I already have a pump and fan sitting around for another project, I may borrow them for the time being.

Small update:

GM LS truck injectors with injector hats fit directly in place of the stock M120injectors, and are basically free. I had dozens of sets laying around that people were throwing away (LS swaps are huge in this area). They flow about 5% more than the stock injectors and are nearly infinitely replaceable. There are also some in the later years that have newer USCAR/EV6 connectors and flow more than twice what the stock MB injectors did, and are absurdly cheap.
Stock LS1/LS6 injectors will fit without injector hats. They're about 2mm longer than M120 injectors but fit just fine. LS3 injectors fit with injector hats.

Obviously these wouldn't be drop-in on the stock M120 ECUs, but for swaps they are perfect.

Who's making your fan. I had to resort to modifying one from a W211 and develop a PWM control for it. I couldn't find anything as thin as the 211 fan and at 19" and 600W, cooling is no longer an issue.

I started with a W203 fan but later found the W211 fan to work out much better. You can see my fan development starting at post 1060, here.

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/theres-a-new-one-coming.2876217/page-53

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John Roncallo

I use DeltaPAG for my fans/water pump. I first heard about them at PRI several years ago. They have their fans and water pumps on display there and was blown away by how well they perform, especially for their size. An 18" version flows over 4000 CFM at just 26 amps and the motor itself is dead silent.

Interesting fan. When I did mine, I couldn't find anything over 16". My biggest problem fan depth. The best I could find at the time was a flex-a-lite low boy with a 3-3/16" depth. It barely cleared, but it had 3000CFM and worked well on my car for 10 years until I installed AC. Not sure if 4000CFM would have done the job. The fan I used was from a 211 and was 19" and 600W. That's about 50 Amps. There is no published data but I would expect these fans to run over 5000CFM. There is also a 203 fan with the same size and power and a larger 850W fan used in some of the ML's. You can see Mr Duxthe1's thread here where the Arduino controller was developed. It also has my tail of fitting both the 203 and 211 fan's

124 electric fan

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I've ordered tubing and collectors to do a set of 6-1 headers in mild steel. Looks like I'll have about $3000 total invested once done, but that includes a fair amount of tooling as well. A second set would likely cost me about $1500. This is for 24 to 30 inches of equal length primary tubing (tubing length will ultimately be decided by fitment) in 1.75" diameter. If I can sell the first set for what I have invested, the tooling will ultimately be free, and I may even start building them out of stainless.

1.75" should be pretty large for each pipes. That's the same size the 2 down pipes on the M120. How does that compare to the exhaust port sizing. I did find fabricating the exhaust to me one of the most expensive parts of doing the job and I didn't even do headers yet.

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Smaller than 1.75" isn't economical enough for me to consider, as I wouldn't use the tubing or the tooling for anything else. The only way I could justify a smaller 1.625" diameter is if I had buy-ins for manifolds from 3 people.

1.75" will actually fit nicely, if I up my goals a bit for power.

Are you bending tube yourself with a mandrel bender? Or are you working with mandrel bends. I cant see $3000 unless you are buying mandrel bending dies of multiple radius?

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I buy pre-bent mandrel tubing. The additional costs are for clamps, fixtures, jigs, expanders, bandsaw fixtures, etc to be able to make a reproducible product. Once I make one, I can duplicate it without the car. It is a one time buy-in which typically pays for itself.

After doing some math, I am leaning towards the 1 5/8" tubing. It is right in that sweet spot of what I need currently, but it isn't without it's limits.

I've ordered 2 sets of exhaust header flanges, and 2 sets of merge collectors. These first sets will be mild steel, until I can get some flanges cut from stainless.

I will be pretty much working on the same thing using the same methods but without headers. In my case I need 1.75" all of the same radius except for 1 bend at the exhaust flange needs to be a little tighter. After that they merge into 2.5 which is all straight pipe. Then they merge into a single 3" all of a single radius. So at most I need 3 band saw cut jigs, which I hope ot just be able to fabricate,

Where did you get your M120 exhaust flanges from?

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I found someone that had some left in stock and ordered 4 flanges. Look for M104 flanges instead of M120 flanges. The M104 flange fits directly on the other head.

I've solved my spark plug and plug wire problems. I've moved from a heat range 8 to a heat range 5 plug (they're also considerably cheaper). The plug wires I sourced from another car, and the boots are a direct fit, they even seal over the holes in the valve covers perfectly, snapping into place. The only issue I've found is that the terminals are about 4mm too short to clip onto the plug terminal, so I squeezed some lube in between the wire and boot and pulled the terminals down 4mm to allow them to clip into place. I also ordered 2 sets of LS coil boots. I'll cut the coil ends off of the wires and add the LS coil boots to them. All-in for custom wires that fit the valve covers better than the OEM COP boots and also fit my LS coils.. <$100 and about 2 hours worth of work.

Injectors are in as well. LS truck injectors with the aluminum hats to allow them to fit a factory LS1 intake ($16) and they dropped right in place.

Total invested so far:
-Plug wires ($89)
-Injectors ($0): Pulled from trashed intake manifolds.
-Injector hats ($32)
-New injector O-rings ($14)
-Ignition Coils ($0): Leftovers from buying/selling LS engines.
-Spark Plugs ($44)
-Header Flanges ($110)
-75mm Cable Throttle Bodies x2 ($70)
-MS3Pro wiring harness ($300)
Total: $659

With the sensors I need, plus a few misc connectors, I figure I'm probably $300 shy of having it running and tuned on the MS3Pro, putting me in at just under $1000.

With power steering/AC delete, electric fan, greatly improved ignition, aggressive fuel/timing and conversion to run on E85.. I'm hoping the original 389 HP comes out closer to 440 (I don't see this being any problem). The MS3Pro will be used to control the VVT for optimal power and torque.

Exhaust headers will be the very next step. It looks like 1.625" primaries in 16 gauge mild steel, with 6-1 collectors that merge into 3" (2.5" with a 3" expansion may be used). Primary tube length between 24 and 28" depending on problems with fitment on the driver's side. Possibly a custom X-pipe afterwards depending on the exhaust tone when finished. This should put me around 465-475 horsepower which is where you typically end up with 6.0 LS engines after just cam/headers.

Maybe I'll be able to break 500 with an intake manifold. Unlikely as the factory piece isn't very restrictive, but the runner length and plenum design leaves a lot to be desired.

I'm just wondering what kind of car you are putting 6 into 1 collectors and 24"+. I don't see me having a hope in hell on my 107.

I also think you will find that the published 389HP is very conservative. I got 355 on a chassis dyno and didn't even get it into 1:1 4th gear on the dyno, so I was still going through a planetary reduction.

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John Roncallo