Anyone replaced a Mercedes radiator which has normally been BEHR as OEM with a Nissens?

Are the Nissens just as good, or would you stick with BEHR?

The application is for a 1993 500E, and I'd also like to install dual electric fans.

Anyone got a recommendation for dual electric fans for the M119 engine in a W124 chassis (400E, 500E)?

I'd prefer someone who's already done the electric fan conversion.

Thanks,
:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Neil,

See my post on the thread titled W126 Performance Mods.

Regards

__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~

Deltacom- who was the maker of the "S" fan you installed, and what's the model number?

Also, do you know the CFM?

I am contemplating DUAL fans each on separate thermostats (one 90C; the other 95C), and separate power-leads for fail-safe operation.

Thanks,
:-) neil

Neil, I have just replaced my radiator with a Nissens and I am more than happy with the quality and also the price. It was the only one available at the time so I didn't have much choice but I am very happy with it. With a big V8 I always ensure the cooling system is running properly.

Matt.

I replaced the nissen in my 300ce with a behr. The nissen was only 2 years old when it broke, because it had not been updated with the metal lined neck.

Car has run cooler since the behr went in. I have not seen the car break 100 deg even in stop start traffic for two hours in the hot sun.

I also went with the appropriate MB coolant to water micture ratio for the car.

Alon

__________________
'92 300CE - Sold
2004 C240 - 744 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio
2002 C320 - 816 - Sport Wagon

Neil,

Model: 16" Suction 225W 2000 Series Axial Fan.
Specs: CFM: 2320, m3/h: 3945, Amps: 20.2. for the 16".
Twin fans would have to be "blowers" and located in front of the radiator. The downside is, it restricts motion air flow at highway speeds. Single fan 16" replaces existing viscofan and it is fixed on the inside of the of radiator between engine and radiator and it would be a "suction" type. It is fixed to the insdie of the cawl. If you choose to replace the viscofan, remember to modify thermostate or obtain a negative thermostate from MB to ensure the bypass flow is always closed to force coolant via radiator and avoid recirculating the hot coolant.
The manufacturers are: http://www.kenlowe.com

Regards

__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~

Anthony, can you explain why the negative thermostat is needed? I am contemplating a similar mod to my car and am unsure of why replacing the viscous fan with an electric will require a thermostat change. How is the fan triggered - off the existing temp probe?

Cheers
Matt.

Matt,

The viscofan is constantly drawing air and cooling the radiator. Once you remove it the electric fan will be triggered only at 100C coolant temp.

The water pump have a dual ducting, main flow to radiator and bypass duct to recirculate coolant around the engine.

The thermostat have two closing valve plates. At coolant temperature up to approx 80C the main valve is closed and the bypass valve fully open. The feed from the radiator is interrupted and the coolant flows via the bypass duct directly via the coolant pump to the crankcase.

At coolant temperature of approx 80C up to max 95C in the part-load range (engine at operating temperature) the main valve and the bypass valve are more or less open depending on the engine load and ambient temperature. The coolant is directed via both the radiator and also the bypass duct as a function of the thermostat position.

When coolant is above 95C the main valve is fully open and the bypass valve is closed. With heavy engine load and high ambient temperature, the bypass duct is closed by the bypass valve not later than at a coolant temperature of 95C. The entire coolant then must flow through the radiator.

Without the viscofan even if both valves are partially open the radiator is not cooling (city traffic), then a cycle of temperature ranges 85C to 100C (thermoswitch action) is constantly brought about and the electric fan is working overtime all the time every 5-7 minute cycle. This makes the car running too hot 50 pct of the time and the fan working the other 50 pct. At city traffic conditions the engine is revving a very low rpm and the output of the fan is greater than the imput of the alternator: 2+2= battery flat!

To prevent these events you may modify the thermostat (if you are a handyman) to fix the bypass valve plate permanently closed and main valve open to radiator,
Or, alternatively you may purchase a negatively closed (positively opened) thermostat, part number: 000 589 74 6300.

The electric fan can directly be connected to the thermoswitch of the auxiliary fan, if you already have one, or you can install a 100C thermoswitch on the blanking plug on top of the pump already provided for this application. Alternatively, the fan comes with its own independent thermostat and manually selectable triggering temp.

A WORD OF CAUTION!: If you remove the viscofan make sure to insert spacers or nuts the same thickness as the viscofan flange to the fixing bolts tosecure the pump flange, otherwise when you start the engine you will shear the pump to pieces by the extra length of the bolts without the fan!!!

Regards

__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~

Anthony- I checked the Kenlowe site, and dual fans can be had in either blower (pusher), or suction (puller) depending on model.

Also, does your concern of the bypass valves pertain to the M104 and M119 engines which use a monovalve to determine heating coolant flow?

Thanks,
:-) neil

Thanks for such a detailed reply. Would a lower temp cut in be better, ie instead of using the 100c aux fan trigger why not use a 90c cut in? Any issues with doing that?

Matt.

Neil,
Yes, fans can be either, but with twin fans they will have to be blowers as you have to fix it to the front of the rad, unless you take off the cawl and place behind the rad but would reduce suction power.

Thermostat would have to be mod to prevent constant overheating and continuous fan action.

regards

__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~

Matt,

Yes, you could lower stat rattings, but that would only make the aforementioned cycle shorter and the fan will be doing extra work.

regards

__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~

Check out Mr. Tummala's AWESOME M119 engined 560SEC. He put dual 12" Flex-a-lite fans in it, Model 210 I believe. To my knowledge, all he had to do was insert a temp probe into the radiator hose where it fits into the neck. To my knowledge he has had no problems. Here are the pics

http://www.mbcoupes.com/memberscars/T/satishtummala/page13.htm

__________________
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."

Where in the USA can you get Kenlowe fans?

The 500E's core size is 612mm x 488mm x 40mm, which is approx. 24.09" x 19.21" x 1.57".

I'm thinking Kenlowe's dual 13-inch fans which only need 610mm x 311mm and the entire assembly is only 69.6mm thick (2.75").

Just need to find these fans in the USA.

:-) neil

Andrew- the electric fan I've chosen is a SPAL pn#30100846, with a CFM of 2780 @ 25Amps.
23.46" x 16.26" x 2.6" deep (4.25" deep at motor)

I can use a 85-C. (185-F.) external thermostat OR tie to my existing temperature probe.

Do I still need to install the "negatively open" thermostat with a 85-C thermostat?

What would happen if I install the negatively open" thermostat and kept the viscous fan?

Thanks,
:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E