hi there...
i am entertaining the idea of getting a high mileage 1986-1989 560sec and doing a bunch of AMG conversions from www.motorsportconcepts.com
what should i look for in terms of POTENTIAL wear/tear problems with a 560sec when the car has very high mileage? a/c compressor? stuff like that? other things?

thanks a lot....

ps. anyone here hear about motorsportconcepts doing upgrade work for MBs?

thank you!!

Let's see, the 126 coupe is a pretty nice car. I've had a couple of them myself in the last few years.

Things to look for after 100k:
Time to start thinking about a timing chain & tensioner if it hasn't been done yet

definately check the a/c operation- repairs are expensive (especially suction hose,compressor etc)

the SEC's had the self leveling rear and the rear "spheres" can go bad making the ride very harsh

the rear windows don't get used much in the coupes, and I've seen alot of bad rear window regulators

as in all benzes- check to see if the cruise control works!-alot of folks don't fix it when the amplifier goes out

the trans front pump seals (and O-ring) like to start leaking after 100k. the parts are cheap but the labor require R&R of tthe trans

make shure the heads aren't leaking at the rear corners. If the valve covers leak, that is no big deal.....but if the heads are spewing oil (usually at the rear corners) and onto the exhaust system- big $$$$time

the front ball joints and camber joints (strut mount bushings) should be checked- not a big $ but the cars just drive so much nicer with a good "tight" front end.

that's about all I can think of off the top of my head right now. I hope I didn't scare you away from getting one. These are just areas that (especially when neglected) can get annoying and expensive. In my opinion though, I firmly believe that the 126 chassis cars both 2 & 4 door were some of the best driving units ever made by MBZ and it is my first choice of car for a road trip.

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alain,
thanks for the response and info.
i am also contemplating 500SEC since i can do the same upgrades to the 500 as with the 560sec. the 500sec weighs a little less and actually looks a little sleeker.
does the 500sec have antilock breaks? i think it also has airbags. do you remember if it has telescoping steering wheel?

what is the top 3 most wear items on a high mileage 500sec?

thanks alain!

ps. tell me about your 560sec as well...thanks!!

whan
1995 Artic White C36

All (US-version)SEC's were "flagship" models, so they have pretty much every available option. Sorry, I can't remember for certain if the 500 had telescoping or not (I think it does). The most noticable differences between a 500 & 560 is that the 500 is the earlier body style with different lower (ribbed) trim & headlights & wheels.

The list of items I mentioned above is pretty much the same for both 500 & 560 models.
I guess the most important (expensive to repair are) 1:check for head leaks
2:check a/c
3:check trans front seal and pump seal for leaks

I have had two 560 SEC's as personal drivers and enjoyed them very much.

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alain...
thanks for the info...
do you think the steering wheel angles a little too high? as compared to my C36 it seems angled a bit too high.
i found a 1984 500sec. the ad says it has about 70,000 miles. he is asking $13,500. this is quite high as compared to Kelly's Blue Book retail price! the trade in value is $7,600. assuming that this is a good car, what is a fair price?

I took this from the 560SEC mailing list. It's a very informative post on what to look for in buying one of these cars. The second portion shows the difference between the 500 and 560.


_______________________________________
Don't be in a hurry. There are lots of nice ones out there. Options include
4 place rear seating in sedans, metallic paint and velour seats (few US
buyers opted for) BTW another option I forgot to mention is the front seat
lumbar support thing and the electric rear window sunshade (rare). Colors
I have noticed and recall (there could be more) are gloss black, pearl
black, cabernet, lapis blue, white, cream, signal red, gold, silver,
anthracite (gunmetal gray), smoke silver,. And 1986 cars on have basically
the same equipment as up to 1991 except dual airbags came out in '89 and ASR
in '91 I think ASR is not a necessary option. The largest selection, best
kept, rust free examples will be found in Southern California, especially
Los Angeles. The large selection there gives you a better price break too.
The S class is the "staff car" down there. When you are ready don't forget
to ask for Carfax report, VMI from the dealer, and get the car inspected.
Fewer and fewer are showing up on MB dealers
lots, don't forget they have slid out the bottom of the Kelly Blue book.
Typical problem areas are the notorious Becker radio, the power window and
Air conditioning. Subtract $2000 from the price if the AC doesn't work.
Other than that, the cars are pretty bulletproof, but parts are a little
expensive, especially the aluminum trunk and hood. A stock 560 SEC goes 0
to 60 in 7.0 seconds. But they respond well to after market mods, like
lowering and AMG exhaust. However if I were you I would look for one in
stock condition with all books stamped, and records available.

First, there is no "bad" year from 1985 to 1991. You need to be aware of
the differences, such as the 1984-85 (500) motor is substantially slower
than the 86-91
which would have the 560 motor. If you must have the 1985 motor you may
save money if you would like to buy one in the 85 year. Will be cheaper but
there are reasons- lots of them. Thus, basically any 86 to 91 car will be a
US model, for the gray market basically ceased to exist in 1986.
SO: the first thing you need to do is to take a realistic look at your
budget. How much do you have to spend, here: The lowest end, $10-12k will
get you a good 85 with high miles. On the other end, out here a 1990 SEC
with 7,000 actual miles, so new it still had traces of cosmoline on the
motor, went on the market here in San Jose in California for $48,000 and it
sold in 3 hours to a fellow in Chicago who bought it for the asking price,
he jumped on a plane and came and got it. That said, you will probably need
to find out where your budget will fit.
With a car like this, the general advice seems to be that you should pay at
the
beginning, the most-for the best-you can afford, ie, the newest, best
condition one you can possibly afford. The reason for that is that a
bargain can very quickly prove to be no bargain at all if you get into
extensive repairs
right away. To this end, perhaps ideal would be a car in stock condition,
maintained by a fussy single owner with ALL books and records.
Don't forget to run a CARFAX report on the car, ($19 on the internet), ask
the dealer for a Vehicle
Master Inquiry on it - to show all repairs done at a dealer, under warranty,
then you should
call 1-800-For Mercedes and ask them to give you a copy of the original
window sticker-that will also show you the dealer first delivered to. Look
in the books and records and call up the people who worked on the car. If
you are lucky you can get to look at the actual repair orders, sometimes
they are still around.
I have told people over and over I believe the safest source to look for
cars is Los Angeles because they are best kept, the market is saturated with
them, the body and repair shops are generally most competent, and the
weather is most agreeable for preserving them, and the prices are lowest and
the selection is widest because there are so many of them around down there.
The very very best ones even still are occasionally seen at Mercedes dealers
down there.
As far as problem areas there are few. When I did join the list I did ask
around and read the buyers guide and this is what I know.
Problem areas are 3:
1. Biggest one of all is the air conditioning. If the car you are looking
at, the AC doesn't work, I would IMMEDIATELY subtract $2000 off the price,
because it could cost this much to fix. Even if-in some cases, all it needs
is a new fuse. You can almost expect a problem here. Don't be surprised.
2. The Becker radios are awful. These are the factory radio and I would
dump one immediately for a nice Alpine with a CD trunk loader. Or other
equivalent.
3. There are sometimes trouble in the power door locks and vacuum system.
Don't be surprised about that.
4. There is danger of upper hose neck breakage on the original equipment
radiators. This is
MORE likely to occur if at any time NON Mercedes coolant was used. Don't
forget these are plastic radiators and they can't withstand certain
chemicals in other coolants. Plus, the necks on OEM radiators are not
reinforced.
Therefore, consider these consumable and due to be replaced at 100,000
miles.
Other than that the cars are bulletproof IF YOU TAKE CARE OF THEM. If you
don't, they will cost a mint to fix. Therefore, be sure you get one that
can be documented to have been well kept, and YOU DO THE SAME
Yes I am suggesting an aggressive maintenance schedule. It will save you in
the long run. Based on my conversations with other Mercedes owners in
questions posed to the lists I would do the following things:
1. Oil changed each 3,500 miles - for sure if dusty or city driving
2. Airfilters and fuel filters (2 fuel filters) about each 15,000 miles
3. Auto trans fluid each 15k to 30k -depending on kind of driving.
4. Brake fluid flush once a year or 12,000 miles whichever comes first. It
really DOES get dirty but the std is so rigorous because of 150 mph panic
stops on autobahn, I guess
5. Rear diff fluid each 30k, for models with LTD slip fluid - use the
Mercedes Ltd slip diff fluid, it is 90w
6. Tune up: new plugs each15k or 30k whatever you feel is better.
7. YES, renew even the power steering fluid and filter each 20 or 30k, this
is not
even in the owners manual but do it now or pay for a new pump later.
5. Every 30k change the fluid in hydraulic rear suspension or else you risk
big trouble on these.
Motor mounts last at least 50k but should be watched.
4 wheel alignment perhaps each 12k - if necessary
This may sound like a lot but it is preventative maintenance and you will be
rewarded with a reliable car if you take care of it.
Now then: I would shy away from one needing body work. This is super
expensive to have done to the proper standard. Much more so than repairs.
Basically there are cosmetic interior changes beginning in 1989. I believe
most models are fully equipped and that means ABS and airbags, I think in 88
or 89 they were dual but I am not sure. A model with a dual airbag won't
have a glove box, that is how you tell. From memory, I recall that the
options are few - they included on the 91, anyway, power rear electric rear
window sunshade, velour (Few US customers wanted), metallic paint,
reinforced seat frames and a lumbar support thing in the seats. For '91
only you could order traction control- something I personally would not
want. Make sure the car you buy has its tool kit, first aid kit and spare
tire and jack in place.
There is mixed opinion about modifying the cars to handle well. Some
believe Mercedes designed them to handle best with the springs, tires and
wheels

hello...
thanks for the info on the SEC. i tell you, its not easy looking for this car. especially a black on black one. the info you guys gave me certainly helps for me to find an SEC in decent shape. i dont care about miles, since i am putting in a new AMG motor anyways.

anyone know of any good black on black 500 or 560secs for sale?

thanks!