Any suggestions on where to place my EGT sensor? Can it be placed where my EGR used to be? The plate where my EGR was is a solid piece at least 1/8th thick is that thick enough to tap?

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1983 300SD

From reading what others have said, the EGR port isn't directly exposed to the hot exhaust gas stream. General consensus seems to be that the exhaust manifold just under the turbo mounting flange is the best location, though not the easiest (you pretty much have to remove the turbo first)

Another alternative is post turbo at the downpipe upper elbow. Keep in mind that temps there will be roughly 300*F lower than pre-turbo.

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

any links to DIY's for this procedure?

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1983 300SD

whats the flash temp on a post turbo EGT reading?

900 degrees Fahrenheit?

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1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

Yeah, roughly. The melting temp of aluminum pistons is about 1250*F, so if your sensor is pre-turbo, 1200 is about the highest EGTs you ever want to hit. Post turbo the temp drop is in the neighborhood of 300*F so somehwere around 900*F would be your limit.

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

any way to drill a pre-turbo hole without removing the turbo?

wouldn't want to get shavings in the turbine housing.

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

There was a discussion of this a while back. I suggested surrounding the drill site with powerful magnets and putting a dab of grease on the drill bit just before you break through, and then doing pretty much the same with the tap.

There was also some discussion of how much (if any) damage the few shavings that might get into the intake could do. One guy maintained that it could be catastrophic if it got into one of the tight clearance spots in the turbo. There was of course some debate about the probability of that happening...

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

I would order a fresh manifold gasket, along with the oil gaskets for the turbo. Pull the intake/exhaust manifolds, replace the manifold gasket, and while the intake manifold is off the car you can burn out the EGR gunk with a propane torch. Not to mention safely install a pyrometer probe pre-turbo and safely remove the drill shavings.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I remember seeing a video on a cummins pyrometer install once where the guy turned on his engine before he started drilling to ensure that the manifold pressure would blow the shavings out the hole.

that being said, I would rather not take the risk and install one aft-turbo.

the 602.961 is no picknick to remove all that stuff so I want to avoid it.

at 298k miles, the original turbo is bound to go fairly soon (especially how I drive) so it may be worth doing a pre-turbo as well at that point.

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

run the engine wile you drill and tap, use a light bit of grease to catch the bigger stuff

You know, now that you guys mention it, I recall that the idea of running the engine while drilling and tapping was also discussed in that previous thread.

I can't recall why the general consensus was that the location UNDER the turbo mounting flange was "the best" location - rather than somewhere up top that is accessible with the turbo still in place...

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

I'm still looking for a Sunpro ST Pyrometer to match my current boost meeter

anyone know how to do a oil temp gauge?

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

I just bought a 300sdl manifold for my 603 with the egr port up top next to the flange. this spot should do the tick right? does the sensor need to protrude into the exhaust flow? does anyone have a similar setup with pics maybe?

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87 w124 om603

When I installed mine I asked the same question, It may have something to do with the log type intake? I have the 115 intake on my car, and it fits just fine on the top side of the manifold. The only thing to remember is to you want it in the center of the hot "jet stream" of air going into the turbo.

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Thanks for the info. Now I just need to figure out the diameter of the egr and find a sensor that fits.

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87 w124 om603