Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Seafood,
You can get information from the MB manual to R&R the rear wheel bearings. Actually is not rocket science, and any competent mechanic should be able to do it. Most important is to set the end play .001 to .002 inch the first time so the crush washer is not crushed twice.
Yes the tool is used to turn the slotted nut, both on and off, and it is absolutely necessary to do the job. You will need a long breaker bar and maybe a pipe. You will also need something the keep the flange from turning. A pipe welded to an old brake drum will work.
The rear axle is sort of like the front axle in reverse. The slotted nut that holds the bearing assembly together is on the inside and the axle goes thru the center of the slotted nut
The manual shows a number of pullers are necessary to remove the old parts. I did it with just careful cutting with an acetylene torch and used a dremel tool to smooth the nicks. Hardest part is getting everything apart, that's what the acetylene is needed for. I had to cut the original slotted nut because it was so tight and cut the bearing races and cones to get them out because I didn't have the pullers. After that its just reassembling the new parts and adjusting the end play.
P E H
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What he said. Really, I didn't mean to alarm you; its not all that bad. I just found it daunting (partly because it was scary to get under it-though why a 4000+ lb car should scare me more than a 2700 lb one I still don't understand: either will kill me if it falls. The MB just seems to have more presence-but I digress) and it was my first major task. I didn't have to use the torch 'cause the bearing cage had come apart and ruined the axle flange thanks to the SANMGRDFPO (Sorry-Arse-No-Maintenance-Git-R-Done-Freak-PO). A experienced and mindfull mechanic will have no problem provided he/she has the info.
Scot