Here's my repair bill - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

connerm · #1 03-03-2004, 10:22 AM

95 e300d 125k..Just got my car back from my trusted indy. Thought you might like to see this bill (total $1,114). I bought this car last summer for $14k. So far, major repairs after this week's have been: replace engine wiring harness, flex disk, etc. Car is sound and body is very good. I tend to keep cars until the wheels fall off. I have a 1983 LTD Crown Vic and a 96 Taurus LX.
Now for the breakdown:
Change oil and filter mobil one synthetic $51 + $82 labor.
Replace idler arm bushings $82+$230 labor.
Rt. tie rod assy $48.
Lft tie rod assy $48.
Idler arm repair kit $45.
Alignment camber, caster toe 4 wheel $95. (Steering is now tight. Rides like new.)

4 hours engine diagnostic $328 to find cause of loss of power over 3500 rpm - tested all electronics and electrical. Secondary manifold flaps not opening. replaced egr control module $150 and now secondary flaps operate.
Test drive found not much improvement.
(actually, to me I have noticed quite a bit of improvement going from 40-50 mph)
Diagnostic manual code 050216 dated 3-24-95 states that exhaust valves can be sticking causing the complaints of lack of power, smoke and occasional rocky idle (rocky idle is more noticable in the summer)

In the 10k miles I have owned this car, I have only occasionally needed to go above 3500 rpms and almost never above 4000. (I've never had this car above 85 mph) The guys at the shop really like to drive cars and they were the ones who noticed this lack of power. I just thought it was a dog and nothing more. The next step they suggested was to drive the car for a month and see if the secondary flap repair helps the engine power issue. The next step would be to do a timing check. Last step is to remove the head and bore the valve guides to 6mm. This is the worst case scenario and I will think long and hard about this kind of repair (something like 30+hours labor). This is not posted here to be a complaint, simply an FYI that some may find useful. All comments welcome.

P.E.Haiges · #2 03-03-2004, 10:52 AM

connerm,

I would call that a lemon, having to spend that much money on it is so few miles. And then still not have it run perfect. It seems to be true that the newer MB are not a reliable as the old 116 models.

I have a '79 300SD (116) I bought cheap 6 years and 60,000 miles ago and have only spent about 1/5 of your one repair bill on it for all that time and mileage. I do all the work myself and what I spent was all parts cost. Of course I just do the minimum to keep it running.

Next time, do the oil change yourself and save $90 for abour an hours work. Where else can you make $90 an hour tax free?

P E H

rdanz · #3 03-03-2004, 11:46 AM

What is with the "4 hours engine diagnostic $328 to find cause of loss of power over 3500 rpm " ?
I'm not a mechanic but that seem very long to find out whats wrong with your car to me they either didn't know what they were doing or its just overbilling.

Plantman · #4 03-03-2004, 11:49 AM

I suggest trying another mechanic.

Don't know of your relationship with your mechanic, but some of those items seems kind of high. Esp, 248.00 to replace the idler arm bushing, the oil change, etc...

Anyway, I have a real good German guy who does work for both of my cars and his labor for an hour is 50.00.

That is very reasonable to me. I have become "buddies" with him as he is my sisters neighbor(I live a mile away).
I questioned him on his "reasonable" prices and he told me that he would rather charge $50.00 per hour over the course of my lifetime and my dad's friends etc... than charge me 85.00 an hour once.

Just last week he adjusted valves on my Dad's 240, changed the oil and filter, adjusted the emergency brake and another minor thing for.....drum roll please........184.00.

My point is, perhaps it's time you looked around for another mechanic. Or at least compare prices.

It seems to me that $130.00 for an oil change would be in line with dealer prices.

My .02 cents

JenTay · #5 03-03-2004, 12:14 PM

hey, if i can change my own oil and adjust the valves anyone can do it.

of course, i wear the same gloves i use at work to keep my paws clean.

i get the walmart brand diesel oil and the whatever brand oil filter ( i forgot the name). total is about $15.

call me cheap but i'd rather be cheap than drive a car with payments.

just my $0.03

vwbuge · #6 03-03-2004, 12:31 PM

I'm glad I do all of my own work.

JHZR2 · #7 03-03-2004, 12:35 PM

Oil change repair is way too high... the cost for the oil is about right, but I think they must have gone out and gotten lunch on your oil change time...

Dont know about the diagnosis time, but sometimes these things are hard to pick out...

The suspension stuff seems about right, but the rest you could have had done at the dealer for the same cost more or less.

I think that any car at 125k will probably need $1000 dropped into it. Even my father's toyota, which has 165k and drives like it is brand new needed about $1000 for various suspension stuff and a new radiator. Cars are expensive to have, no way around it...

JMH

scottiesharpe · #8 03-03-2004, 01:05 PM

A penny saved is a penny earned!

connerm · #9 03-03-2004, 01:20 PM

Believe me, if I could have purchased an older model that was easier to work on such as a 79, 83, 81 or 85, I would have jumped on it. Scottiesharp, do you repair your cl yourself? That's one fine auto.

P.E.Haiges · #10 03-03-2004, 01:27 PM

Scottie,

A penny saved is 2 pennies earned if you consider taxes.

P E H

janko · #11 03-03-2004, 01:42 PM

as the proprietor of braehead diesel and proctology shop, i would love to be able charge $82 labour for an oil change.

scottiesharpe · #12 03-03-2004, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by connerm
Scottiesharp, do you repair your cl yourself? That's one fine auto.

No I don't touch it. Still under warranty!

The other ones however...they are all a handfull!

roy wood · #13 03-03-2004, 07:51 PM

the labor on your oil change is outrageous.

on the idler arm, i don't know about your specific model, but it's
not a difficult job and the kit (which he charge separately) is only about 50 bucks. what, an hour doing it real slow with a nooner in between?