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#1
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what exactly is a front end rebuild?
pardon the questions. i'm still trying to catch up with you all.
what parts are involved in this? do you actually replace the parts or just the bushings? do the rubber bushings just pop off? is this one of those jobs where replacing just one component does little good as opposed to a total rebuild? what is the life expectancy of the shocks? how is a front end rebuild on the difficulty scale? thanks in advance.
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Jennifer 90 350sdl |
#2
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The shocks really depends on what roads you drive on.. I sold my last car with 150k on the shocks.
Suspension rebuilding. You can replace a few bad parts if the rubber parts look good. Ie sometimes a bad ball joint or tierod ends is all it needs. Rebuilding is more involved. You replace the upper control arms, replace the brake rod support joint, Lower ball joints are pressed in , lower control arm bushing is also a press fit, etc.. Most DYI's just do everything at once on a 20 year old car. Makes sense when you are paying $100+ for an alignment. I'm assuming you are talking W123/W126 body? Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#3
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Jen,
A front end rebuild is something that someone with some prior experience can do, depending on the extent of the rebuild. If one is truly rebuilding the front end, then you would need some expertise and special tools like a spring compressor IOT change some bushings on the lower control arm and track rod. Generally, most people have to replace the lower ball joints which requires a press and the upper ones are pretyy simp[le and usually come with the upper control arm already pressed in. The bushings on the upper control arm inner portion are somple and can easily be replaced by you if you've wrenched before. The lower control arm inner bushing are able to be replaced by you but anly with good familiarity with the spring loading, as I was able to do them with little effort compared to the route some poeple take for safety reasons and then they get a spring compressor. Some stuff I think you could do are upper control arms and bushings, track rod joints, steering shock and idler arm bushings. I think the most common things to go are lower ball joints and idler arm bushings, though, so at least uopu could do half. I think shocks can last a very long time, and that time depends on the type of driving you do. I think you can get about 100k to 125k out of Bilstein HD shocks, which is what I like. Some pople will say suspension work is very dangerous, which it can be, so be prepared for some discouragement, I say go for it! Have fun, Adam Bush |
#4
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82 300TD front end rebuild. A complete rebuild.
300TD suspension rebuild progress The only thing not replaced in the front end rebuild was the lower control arm, I rebuilt it. Rear end rebuild 300TD REAR suspension rebuild To do a suspension rebuild you have to buy or rent the coil speing compressor. Do a search on this, The buy/rent idea has been discussed to death. But buy or rent it for a SAFE rebuild. What you want to do is replace the rubber parts that become soft and fail to do their job. Additionally ball joints and shocks are replaced. Now not all of these components must be replace at the same time. I did not replace the shocks since they only had about 25,000 miles on them. They should last quite some time. But I chose to completely rebuild the front and rear suspensions on my 300TD. 175,000 miles. Cost was about $700. For everything. Not including the coil spring compressor. We intend to drive the car as a daily driver. And I wanted the ride to be enjoyable. I just bought a 83 240D for my Daughter All that needs replacing in this suspension is guide rod mount and bushing. The rear subframe mounts and trailing arm bushings are about 75% gone so I will do it now instead of later. When rebuilding a front end you should do it in pairs. Left and right side. If the rubber on the hose suspension sytem is bad then replacing a little as you go is a waste of money. The alignment of the tires requires a good front suspension. If you replace the lower control arem bushing abut not the bad ball joints then the alignment that is done will not "hold". Or keep the wheel in alignment. Your fornt suspension is only as good as the worst component in the suspension. Front end difficilty. I would say a 7 out of 10. IF you have the right tools. A rear end suspension rebuild 6 out of 10. More grunt work but again you need that coil spring compressor. For both you need a good jack and GOOD jack stands. A place to do it. and it will take a couple of days. Scale of 1-10 is 1 change your oil/filter, light bulbs, fuses, 5 change brake rotors, pads, bearings regreased. 10 Transmission rebuild(maybe 11)/engine rebuild/major parts removed and replaced Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#5
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i agree with everything put feel i still can give a little
The front sway bar is an easy job - but takes time...you need to remove the battery side and brake booster side of the firewall to get to the bushings...i can post what mine looked like when i bought the car...not trash, but i did not want them... also the springs require a compressor front and back as they are different, i suggest new spring cups for $2.50 because they take a lot of load...(as dave said the compressor issue is as old as the hills, my dad made me my own tools - thanks dad) the dealer will tell you a bit about the rear subframe mounts - you may want to make sure you have the correct ones for your vin, or just for the basic car...i have not heard of problems if you like/love your car then invest in a whole job or 90% job, you wont believe the difference... i use 45mm progressive wound lowering springs, Bilstein HDs and a upper tower tie bar, ect... Jake check daves links...covers all...thanks dave Last edited by BF_JC230; 03-03-2004 at 12:29 AM. |
#6
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Working on my suspension lately...
I get a thump when I go over bumps AND when I get into the brakes hard, sounds like from the front left. I just replaced the UCA's, the upper ball joints were shot. What's next? Lower ball joints? What are the symptoms of bad swaybar bushings? Guide rod mounts? Thanks! (W123 300d, btw) Ash
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Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales ---------510-331-4118----------- 1982 240D - (272,000) 1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid" 1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay" |
#7
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..also, it seems most folks don't replace the lower control arm bushings on the W123's. I wonder why.. Is it the complexity of the job? I notice my bushings are very aged and cracking but still in there..
On my 450SL, the lower control arm busings were a major component to dramatically improved drive-ability. I like to hear other thoughts on the lower control arm bushings...
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Mark Herzig 1995 E300D 153K 1985 300D 142K (sold) 1979 450SL 122 miles (sold) 1992 500E 127K (sold) 1987 300SDL 132K (sold) 1986 300E 161K (sold) |
#8
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ahhhh folk..... yall missed out on some good humor here.
![]() JentTay; I'm a nature lover and not much for the idea of woman getting front end rebuilds :p ![]() ![]() All in jest. Smile on folk ![]()
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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way". by JerryBro The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels |
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