I have noticed some accumulations of diesel fuel near some of my injectors on my '87 300TD (603). After searching/reading I want to remove/clean the injectors and replace the return lines. Are the described tools (crow's foot tool & Hazet 27mm socket) the itms I need? Where do I purchase them? What size/brand hose do I need for the return lines? What is a Stahlwille clamp?
Thanks
Steve

That diesel is probably coming from leaking overflow lines. No special tools are really needed to replace those lines and, unless something else is wrong with your injectors and, you are truly comfortable working on precision equiment/machinery, I do not recommend dissasembling diesel injectors.

But, to answer your questions, to remove the injectors, you need a deep 27mm socket...available from Sears (good to have a deep one anyway because it also fits the crankshaft bolt and some other things.

A crowsfoot wrench is nice to have but not always necessary. I was able to remove my injector delivery lines using an open-end (17mm I think). Just don't force it...if the wrench is the slightest bit loose and the fitting is really tight, you WILL damage the fitting. Metric crowsfoots that fit onto a 3/8 drive extension can also be found at Sears or Harbor Freight.

Replacement injector overflow hose can be purchased by the meter from the sponsors of this forum, at your local MBZ dealer's shop or from well-equipped auto part houses that specialize in foreign cars. Be sure you only use metric hose that is designed for exposure to diesel fuel.


Stahlwille is a brand of high quality, German-manufactured tools. They make a cool little clamp for pinching off fuel lines and such...unfortunately, it costs $30+ so I simply use a small pair of vice grips intead.

Stahlwille, Hazet and other specialzed MBZ-related tools can be obtained through Sir Tools, Samstag Sales or Doug at Albuquerque Specialized Tools 800/338-5374.

Good luck and have fun!

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

One of my hard metal fuel lines developed a leak where the metal hex nut screwed the fuel line to the top of the delivery valve on the IP. The factory new replacement part had been reinforced exactly where my hard fuel line had cracked, so it must have been discovered as a high failure point. I got the replacement here at partshop for less than 1/2 what other dealers I tried wanted.

The rubber o rings on the delivery valves are also likely to be leaking. On my 603, they leaked like a sieve, but were dry after replacing. If you want to go that route, you will need a special splined socket.

But, I would start with the fuel return lines first (I bet it doesn't entirely fix the problem).

alec

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87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
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