300TD suspension rebuild progress - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dmorrison · #1 03-25-2003, 10:00 PM

Well I'm coming along with the suspension rebuild on the 82 300TD. I am replacing the following
Upper control arm
Sway bar mount bushings
Sway bar/upper control arm bushings
Coil Springs
Lower Control arm bushings and ball joints
Track rod mount
Guide rod mount
Wheel bearings and races
Calipers
Rotors and pads
Brake hoses
Tie rod assemblies
Center drag link
Steering shock
Rebuild the Idle arm

I will also rebuild all the rubber in the rear suspension.

Trailing arm bushings
Sub frame mount bushings
Brake hoses
Differential mount
(calipers and rotors are realtively new)
(axels are fine and are giving me no problems)

The left front was the learning side for me. I rebuilt a 65 Mustang from the ground up so the Mercedes is actually being easier to work on. And the engineering is much better.

I did purchase the Sir Tool M0070 Coil Spring Compressor. It is well worth it. If your going to remove the coil springs on the Mercedes I recommend that you buy it or rent it. I used a cheapo compressor on the Mustang and it never bothered me. However the amount that you have to compress the Mercedes springs is tremendous. Again I highly recommend that you get or rent the proper coil spring compressor.
To compress the spring I had to include all the visible coils. Nine coils in total.

None of the bolts are nuts were difficult to remove. Unlike the Mustang. All the pieces of the suspension came off the car easily. All the pieces cleaned up rather well. The left lower control arm required some honing inside the mount bushing hole. It is still pitted a little but will do. Maybe the bushing will only last 1/2 as long. 11 years instead of 22.

The front left went together quickly and I have everthing ready for the right. It should be done tomorow. Then I get to attack the rear suspension.

I have attached a picture of the left front with all new components and the right with everthing removed.

Dave

dmorrison · #2 03-25-2003, 10:01 PM

Front left side

dmorrison · #3 03-25-2003, 10:02 PM

front right side

Capt Kirk · #4 03-25-2003, 11:43 PM

how much was that spring compressor?

dmorrison · #5 03-28-2003, 01:58 AM

The cheapest I found it was $550.00

Dave

Capt Kirk · #6 03-28-2003, 02:33 AM

damn

did you actually buy it or just rent it?

and also where exactly are you in TX?
Colleyville sounds real familiar, How close are you to Dallas?

#7 03-28-2003, 09:25 AM

So this is a 300D turbo and not a 300TD wagon

dmorrison · #8 03-28-2003, 01:43 PM

The car is a 300TD
Some would list it as a 300TDT
ALL Mercedes diesels starting in 82 were Turbos (US inports).
ALL station wagons starting in 81 were Turbos (US imports).
An 82 sedan would be a 300D on the right side it would say Turbo on all 300D's starting in 82.
Now for those out of the old US of A yes it is a Station Wagon.
with sunroof, 3rd, seat, cruise, signal red paint, palamino interiors and 1/2 of a new suspension

Dave

#9 03-28-2003, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dmorrison
The car is a 300TD
Some would list it as a 300TDT
ALL Mercedes diesels starting in 82 were Turbos (US inports).
ALL station wagons starting in 81 were Turbos (US imports).
An 82 sedan would be a 300D on the right side it would say Turbo on all 300D's starting in 82.
Now for those out of the old US of A yes it is a Station Wagon.
with sunroof, 3rd, seat, cruise, signal red paint, palamino interiors and 1/2 of a new suspension

Dave

Thanks for clearing things up, because I tend to get confused at times, because people who don't know any better will call a 300D turbo a 300TD.
Anyways, it sounds like your 300TD will handle awsome once you get everything put back together. I need to rebuild my suspension sometime, or at least replace all the bushings.

dmorrison · #10 03-28-2003, 11:26 PM

I purchased the Coil Spring Compressor. I have 4 Mercedes so I fugured I would use it. And I usually like having my own tools.
I knew I would need it twice to do the 82 300TD and I intend to keep my 88 560SL forever so If I rented it 4 times at $100 a pop. I figured I would just buy it and then I can do repairs at my leisure. The compressor also fits the 65 Mustang. I don't think the Mustang will need work for the next 10-15 years though. We just did a complete rebuilt on it.

Colleyville is in the Metroplex. Just west of the DFW airport.

Dave

Capt Kirk · #11 03-29-2003, 02:30 AM

Guess thats why Colleyville sounds so familiar

I'm out in Plano, just north of Dallas

nibiru · #12 03-29-2003, 07:42 AM

Dave:

I have a 300 TDT ' 82 with leaking fuel lines - so I have to drop the suspension in the rear to get the lines replaced.

Will I have to get the sping compressor to do this and any advice you can lend would be greatly appreciated

Peace:

Nib

dmorrison · #13 03-29-2003, 08:03 PM

Nib

When you say leaking fuel lines. There are 2 lines ( 2 steel lines from the engine to the tank and then 2 short rubber lines that connect the steel line to the tank line, I'm discussing the rubber lines) that are easy to get to from below the car. The lines that are not easy to get to are the vent and overflow lines that are above the gas tank in the station wagon . You will need to buy 1 meter of fuel line. You actually need less but its usually sold by the meter.
Jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Use a Philips head screw driver to remove the clamps on the 2 fuel lines that you will see at the front bottom of the fuel tank. Cut the fuel line you purchased to the lenght of the old lines and install the new line with the old clamps.
Consider the following.
Do the job with a empty tank. Or at least as empty as you would feel comfortable with. Allow the diesel to drain into a container so you can recycle it.
While your down there and have the tank empty. Remove and clean or replace the fuel tank screen. ( The fuel tank screen is that round washer looking thing in the center bottom of the fuel tank, it has a 22 MM recess to unscrew it) You will need a 22 MM allen wrench. Or if you don't want to spend a fortune on one of those. Go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and 2 nuts. The size bolt will have a head that is 22 MM. Jamb the 2 nuts on the bolt and use that to remove and replace the fuel tank screen.
While the screen is out stick you finger in the tank and see how much sludge is in your tank. You may want to clean out as much as you can. Or you may not find any.
While the fuel hoses were off the tank I blew air through the steel line from the Cigar hose and the hose that goes to the IP to clear out any debris that may have been in the line.

Add fuel and consider replacing the inline and fuel filters in a week or two

Or do you mean that the steel lines have a hole in them. There are 2 lines going from the tank to the engine. The supply line and the return line. If the steel line has to be replaced You will have to lower the rear subframe. And if your going to have to do that you need to remove the coil springs before you drop the assembly. If your doing that you may want to consider replacing the sub frame bushings, trailing arm bushings and possibly the rear springs. Since you will have all of this out to do the job. $235 for the springs, subframe bushing and trailing arm bushings. Now while your under there check your axel boots. Cracks are normal but no tears. Hows the ride of the rear suspention, bounce? Now would be the time to replace the hydraulic accumulators for the rear suspension. Your right there and its just a unbolt and rebolt to change them out. But if the ride is OK, wait.
I find it hard to believe that the steel line has a hole in it. I bet your problem is the rubber hose that goes from the steel line to the tank.

Dave

dmorrison · #14 03-29-2003, 09:02 PM

Well I just finished with the front suspension and steering assembly.
The right side went in very easily. Cleaned the wheel well area before assembling the suspension.
Today I took off the steering linkage. Right and left tie rod assembly, Center assembly, and rebuilt the Idle arm unit. All went well except for the center assembly. Removing the old center tie rod ball joint was a pain. The tie rod tool I have is the Harbor Freight unit http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861
It works OK for ball joints that have the nut on the bottom. The center link has the nuts on the top and there is not enough room to use the tool. This tool would be better
http://www.samstagsales.com/images/hz779-1.jpg
Since I was going to replace everything I used a pickle fork to remove them, And of course it destroyed the boots.
The assemblies went together easily.
The idle arm required some creativity. To knock out the old bushings I used a 1/2 X 8 inch brass punch. This allowed me to remove the top bushing. But to get the bottom bushing out there was not enough room for the hammer, punch and enough swing room to strike the punch. To remove the races from the wheel hubs I had bought a 2 foot long piece of 1/4 inch brass ( which I did not use on the races ). From above the engine I could use the 2 foot long brass rod to drive out the lower bushing. I then cleaned the interior of the idle arm assembly with degreaser and a brake cylinder hone. The bushing were pressed in using the universal ball joint press
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335
The idle arm assembly went together and I attached the center and both tie rod end assemblies.
Next I will re-attach the Brake booster and master cylinder after I bench bleed it ( took them out to replace the sway bar mount bushings ). Once I replace the rear rubber brake lines I will bleed the brake system and refresh all fluids.

Now to the rear suspension, wish me luck

Dave

nibiru · #15 03-30-2003, 12:27 PM

Dave:

Thank you so much for the reply- hope some day I can return the favour. It is most certain the steel line- it rusted thru under the rubber holders that keep it tight to the body- Chicago salty winters I supose

The other lines need to be replaced as well - right now I am looking to replace the steel lines - I see that the steel lines are 7 mil and I would like to replace them with stainless steel fuel lines- I found a place on the web http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/fuel_acces.htm that has stainless lines by the foot- I am just wondering if I can use their 5/16th line to replace the 7 mil or do I stick with 7 mil and just get it thru mercedes. Thoughs anyone.

So I have to drop the suspension- I will have to compress the springs yes????. I am not in the position to purchase spring compressers right now if they cost 500.00- they must be different than macpherson strut compressors huh? too bad

have you ever replaced steel fuel lines before???

I have but there were unions so minimal bending- I am just wondering if I can handle the bends myself or do I just go with flex line and put in a union- I understand that sometimes when you do a splice you get problems- I am thinking if I do the flex line I can have hydraulic compression fittings done but then there is still the union to deal with. Any thoughts / words of wisdom/ suggestions

Please and thanks

peace;

nib