300TD suspension rebuild progress - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dmorrison · #16 03-31-2003, 01:02 AM

Sorry to hear about the steel lines. Yes I have replaced the fuel lines on the 65 Mustang with Stainless Steel lines. The were prebent and from this company. I replaced the line while everything was off the car. The fuel and brake lines were the first thing reattached to the car.

http://www.classictube.com/frames/4/index.html

They can bend a stainless or steel line for you. Consider calling them and seeing if you can get a stainless line with AN fittings already spliced into it. This way you can install them in sections. I'm sure you can work with them.

Making your own line is a possibility. Buy a good bender and get steel line form Summit racing. I tried this but was not happy with the results so I bought the SS line from Classic tube. You can not flare SS line at home so if your going to make it you should use regular steel line. But you really wont have to flare anything just bend it.

Another idea, How many leaks do you have?
If one or two consider buying POR-15 epoxy. and seal the line with the 2 part putty type epoxy. You will have to drain and dry the lines. Then mix the epoxy, Its very stiff. and apply to the diesel line. Once it is cured the diesel will not harm it. Some on the forum may not like this idea but I used this material on the Mustang and you have to sand, file or grind it to shape it once it is cured.

http://www.por15.com/puttys.html

Another idea, Cut the section of the lne that is rusted, and use rubber hose in that section. Just make sure you check it regularly for safety.

If you choose to replace the line with the Meredes replacement part your looking at a big job.
The exhaust will have to be lowered. The Sub frame will have to be lowered. To do this you'll have to disconnect the brake lines, sway bar links, remove the hydraulic actuators, remove the coil springs, release the front subframe bushings, release the drive shaft, loosen the parking brake cable, release the differential mount, have some kind of cradle or maybe 3 floor jack under the rear end assembly and then lower it about 6-10 inches. Then you can feed the new line above the rear subframe mount. Sounds like a lot of work. Yes you will have to compress the coil springs to safely work on the rear suspension. You can rent the unit from Performance Products.

Try a racing store to see what kind of help they can give you on the fuel line. They have all sort of neat things for the racing cars.

Dave

nibiru · #17 04-01-2003, 06:17 PM

Dave:

Thanks so much for the info. I will be going with Classic Tube for the stainless lines. They are going to bend them for me. Great suggestion

I am going to buy the coil compressor. Do you mind if I ask where you found your compressor for 550.00.

I would rent but I will have to rent twice for the rear. Once to get down and once to get in. then about the front end. So I will take your advice and buy it. I am sure I will get plenty of use and it will be worth the cost.

Your advice on the replacement parts will also be followed- I am very much in agreement with the since I am there.

Thanks again for all of your advice and your time. Soon I will be following you lead on the front end I am sure

Peace:

Nib

dmorrison · #18 04-02-2003, 01:08 PM

Tool crazy got me the best price. Here is the E-mail

Hello~

Your price for the M0070 is $550.00 plus shipping. The item weighs 15lbs. If you give me your zip code I could quote you shipping via UPS Ground. The part is currently in stock. Thank you for your inquiry!
Regards,
Lisa Sherif
TOOLCRAZE.COM

You need the M0070 not the M0070GT. The GT only includes the smaller disks, and you need the large disks for the rear springs.

Go to Toolcrazy.com and get the phone number and call Lisa.

For the rear bushings I would suggest the Harbor Freight ball joint press. It was also invaluable on the front end.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335

Or a set of 3 jaw pullers

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40965

This is another way of removing the rear trailing arm bushings.

I found that removing the entire trailing arm was almost necessary to get the bushing out. They required a lot of sweat and cutting. Review my post on the rear end rebuild in a few days.
Give me a couple of days to post the latest saga on the rear rebuilt. I have finished the right side and will try some different techniques on the left side. I'll post how they went.

Of course the Mercedes too would be nice!!!

Dave

gsxr · #19 04-02-2003, 03:44 PM

I rebuilt my W123 front suspension a few months ago myself. Fun job, huh Dave?

Some photos of my project are here:

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W123_suspension/

I also bought a spring compressor, but not the SirTools unit. I rented that from Perf. Prod. a couple years ago and did NOT like it. I hate the design where the hex flats have to fit perfectly into the top plate, it makes the job very hard on a 124 chassis (not sure about 123). So I bought the original OE Mercedes compressor kit, which is made by Klann in Germany and even has the Mercedes part numbers on it! The Klann costs more (I got it for $750 with shipping) but IMO it's worth it if you do work on your Mercedes often, or have several MB's. Or you could just sell it on eBay after you're done. I got mine from The Motoring Shop:

http://www.themotoringshop.com/products/springsafetydevice.htm

This kit includes both plate sets, btw, for front and rear of the 123 chassis. Here is a link with good photos (but a lousy price) :

http://www.samstagsales.com/klann_spring.htm

Note that the old SirTools compressor I used was more like $450, not $550. So either the price went up, or they redesigned the tool and the new one is better than the POS that I used (and pricier too!) And I see Samstag wants $650 + s/h for the M-0070! Ouch... with such a small price difference, might as well get the Klann. The ST was a lot more attractive at ~$450 vs. $750, but not any more.

Best regards,

dmorrison · #20 04-02-2003, 04:09 PM

Dave
I looked at your photos of the rebuild. Looks very familiar.
Your use of the ball joint press to install the ball joints in the Lower Control Arm.
I use the same kind of unit from Harbor Freight. The opening that goes over the ball joint in my unit is 1 1/4 inchs. When I removed the boot I noticed that to do it your way, the clamp was resting on the ball joint section that looked like a metal seal. I did not want to put pressure on the seal unit for fear of damaging it. How did your set up work? Was the clamp setting on the metal seal and if so what damage/trouble did you encounter.
To use the tool I used the 2"ID tube, which I wish was 1.5 inch long instead of the 2" long. Becasue of the 2' I had to cut a 45 degree piece off the top of the clamp so that it would fit into the steering knuckle cavity. This worked well. If I had a metal lathe I would have cut the 2" tube to 1.5 inches and the set up would have worked fine.
did you do the steering linkage? What tie rod seperating tool did you use? I had the Harbor Freight cheapo for the sons 65 Mustang.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861

It worked on all the ball joints except the center tie rod link. The lever type would have been best. I used a pickle fork for those.

Dave

gsxr · #21 04-02-2003, 04:20 PM

Hi Dave,

I used the AutoZone free rental ball joint press, which I think is the same as the HF unit you have. I had to pull the dust boot off the joints and the joint body sat in the hole in the tool nicely, it did not press on anything inside the joint. Perhaps your press is slightly different in sizing, or your joints are different (mine were Lemforder).

Yes I did ALL steering linkage at the same time. I used a pickle fork, a cheap JC Whitney "lever type" separator, and a Bernz-O-Matic torch. The torch was the BIGGEST help - put the joint under tension with the tool, then apply heat - after 30-90 seconds you get a BANG! and the joint pops out.

I also did the guide rod support joints, those were SHOT, and basically every moving part in the front end. It also has new calipers, rotors, & brake hoses... handles MUCH nicer now!

dmorrison · #22 04-03-2003, 03:36 AM

Did the same thing. All the moving parts in the front and rear have been replaced.

The JCWhiney tool. How do you like it? Does it fit all the tie rod assemblies in the Mercedes cars?
I was looking at it but was not sure if the 11/16 inch opening would work.
I know that Performance Products sells a unit for $89. A bit pricey especially since I have the Harbor Freight unit and a pickle fork for the pneumatic air gun.
For the future work I would like to have a unit that will allow seperation without damaging the boot.
How did you like the JCWhitney tool?

Dave

gsxr · #23 04-03-2003, 10:22 AM

The JCW tool is a pice of junk, but it worked. I forget which joints it did and did not fit.

For the ones where it worked, I had to tighten it almost to the maximum travel, then the bolt started to skew off to one side. I was afraid it was going to break on me but never did. I'd like to buy the same type of tool, but from a reputable mfr, as the design is pretty decent IMO. I think the bolt type work better than a pickle fork, especially when you add the "blue wrench" to the equation!

You still may get boot damage, but you can buy replacement boots from MB if you need to re-use a joint (although if you put a torch on it, I wouldn't re-use it... the grease inside may be boiled, and the plastic inserts melted).

Regards,

nibiru · #24 04-05-2003, 11:39 PM

Dave:

I look forward to your next results with the rear suspension.
I called Lisa at tool craze and she has yet to get back to me on the SIR M0070

Mind if I ask you to check a vacuum line. I replaced the vacuum booster line off the master cylinder. Off the second outlet from master cyl this line goes to a 3 way and then down to a " Y "
Off of this " Y " runs a black with white stripe line. Can you tell me where that goes

Mine is just hanging there - it has a fitting on the end so I feel it attaches somewhere's. I do not have a vacuum schematic so I am lost

Thank you and please in advance.

Tell me - did you replace your hydralic struts in the rear- I am wondering if I have to do this. Chicago- it all in how the salt eats your undercarriage

Peace:

Nib

#25 04-07-2003, 09:53 AM

The hydropnumatic rear works on my 1982 300td but it is very bouncy and sluggish (When manualy activating it, it takes 4 seconds to reach full height). I think there is air in the lines, how do I find the bleed valve(s)?

nibiru · #26 04-07-2003, 12:40 PM

82 300td

how do you manually activate this suspension?

peace

nib

#27 04-07-2003, 01:49 PM

lay under the rear of the car and pull/push the activating lever.

dmorrison · #28 04-10-2003, 12:29 AM

82-300Td
Your accumulators are bad.
You don't bleed the system. The pump provides continuous feed of the hydraulic fluid and it is self bleeding.

These are the accumulators.

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-TDT-001&category=L&part=Accumulator

You can locate them under the car just in front of the axels.

===========================

nibiru

The black/white vacume line is the one that goes to the automatic transmission

Attached is a diagram of the vacume system

Dave

#29 04-10-2003, 09:53 AM

When the engine is running and the rear suspension at all positions (bouncung) the hydro oil level stays the same at all times. Is there any test I can do to help keep from to buying a $100 accumulator?

gsxr · #30 04-10-2003, 11:24 AM

You can try to find the accumulator cheaper - try FastLane (link at top of this page), or call Rusty (800-741-5252).