1985 300TDT (California) Is the bowden cable end on top of the valve cover? White threaded part - is this the adjustment? Even if I unscrew it all the way - there is still slack in the cable. Is there another way to adjust?

Yep, thats the cable. On my car 1/2-1 turn makes a difference. It maybe still slack but what happens when the throttle is opened? The relative position of the cable has to change. If there seems to be no difference in shift timing something else is wrong with your trans. RT

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Thomas - thanks a lot! (Sincerely). The transmission shifts ok but with just a "little" short lag. I do not see any noticeable over-revving, like with slipping. I cruise at highway speeds at about 2500 rpm. I am in the process of changing trans filter and fluid - levels are not low, and color is red. Any ideas? Thanks again.

Do I turn that cable in or out to get shifts that are sooner? Thanks.

Alex

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1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside

You turn the adjusting nut clockwise to shift at lower rpms. But only a half turn at a time. Lee

Lee - Thanks, I will tell you that in my haste, I've only tried the extremes - that is, all the way in OR all the way out, because I thought that I was supposed to get rid of the slack. Any suggestions? Should I go "halfway then adjust 1/2 turn at a time?

SMartin,
From my experience the book says to remove slack for a starting point, but that point is hard to find because of the rubber boot on the end of the cable. there is no firm resistance when the slack is out. I looked at the end of the arm where the cable attaches and noted when it started to move and when it quit moving. On my 300D there is a lot of difference in just a few turns from this point. in one direction it shifts so quick thru the gears that you have no acceleration and the other way it never will shift into 4th. I have spent a few hours going from one parking lot to another adjusting it at each stop. Just trial and error. Hope this helps. Lee

Do I have to make modulator adjustments to add firmness to my shifting in general? I'm going to make sure I have no slack on the bowden cable to delay the shifts a little more, but will this help with how it actually locks in each gear? I'd prefer firmer. Whats the best adjustment on the trans itself to make a teeny adjustment for more firm?

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The modulator valve, not bowden cable, will adjust for firmness (clockwise turn) or for smoother shifts (counter clockwise) The modulator valve is on the side of the transmission, drivers side that is, and has a single vac hose connecting from vac amplifier. The center cover of the modulator valve is made of plastic, sometimes green, or grey color, there is a black rubber cap about the size of a dime in the center, pull the cap off, you'll see a circle of slots and a metal bar connecting between, pull the metal bar out, this is simply a tool built in and with it pulled out a 1/4 inch, you can turn to whatever desired position and then push back in to the slots to lock it in position then return the rubber cap.

I used car ramps set up in my driveway making it easier to do as you have to keep testing different positions, both modulator and also the bowden cable too, if your adjusting that as well. Find the happy medium between both bowden and modulator adjustments, that's where you want to be! Too soft of shifting becomes flaring (motor racing between shifts) and this is not good as it heats up the discs inside the tranny and wares them out sooner. Harsher shifts, not too harsh, are less burdensome on those discs but can accelerate ware to the flex discs and center shaft bearing. Shifting points 1-2-3-4 (bowden cable) should occur at or around 2000 rpm. Synthetic transmission fluid is available and may extend tranny life. Dont forget to drain the torque converter too! BB

Thanks very much! I think I will go do that now Adjustment time!

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I am glad to say with two clicks clockwise on the modulator, shifts are good and quick, but not too firm. Also tightened my bowden cable a little bit, it had a bit of slack. Took it for a spin and I could immediately tell that it wasn't going to flare anymore, this is cool! Thanks

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Do all years of 123 trannies (300's that is) have a bowden cable? All I can see going to my tranny is the vac line for the modulator. What exactly does the bowden cable do, and where are the connection points? (ie: what is on either end of it)
JL

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'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Just want to add to the previous question. I have an '82 240D and am curious what sets the shift timing when there is no bowden cable? Does the vacuum modulator affect shift timing as well as quality on these transmissions? Curious because my transmission shifts into 4th above 50 mph and seems to high, even when the kickdown switch is disconnected. Thanks!!

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'82 240D Euro 68K and growing

What about WOT shift points for each gear?



I have no shift problems/flairing/slippage during the shifts ergo I'd tend to think no modulator problems (knock on wood time! ) but I don't think I'm getting max RPM per gear...

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The Bowden cable tells the transmission when to shift. Give it some slack to shift sooner, take out some slack to shift later. Mine used to shift at 3,700 RPMs, so I tightened up the Bowden cable a little. Now my WOT shifts occur around 4,300 RPMs. I'm not sure how high the engine (OM617.952) can safely rev, but 4,300 RPMs makes for a nice Italian tuneup .

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