Looked at an '83 240D today. Seller is asking $3800. Thinking they'll take a little less. 246K on the odo. N. Carolina car, very little rust. None on the underbody, suspension points, fender wells/fenders, etc. Jacking points and surrounding areas are clean and rust free. A couple spots here and there, mostly surface, nothing major. White exterior. The interior is "henna" and very nice, as well.
Engine starts right up after glow light goes out. Smoked a bit when cold. After warm up and when driving didn't notice much smoke at all. Engine seemed to run very strong, to me. However, when I did the oil cap test, it danced around a good bit and there was a good bit of smoke. The cap stayed in place, never blew off. Wondering how much weight to place on those results (as far as a buying decision is concerned)?
I don't have much to compare this car to. I currently own an '83 240D with about 50K less miles on it than this car (that's the extent of my MB diesel experience). My 240 is literally a dog compared to the one I drove today. I've done most of the recommended maintenance items on mine, i.e., valve adjust, fuel filters/screens, timing chain check, etc., all good and mine just seems lethargic comparatively. FWIW, mine is very well mannered in the "Oil Cap Test" dept.
Another issue of concern is the auto trans. The "for sale" car shifts very well from first to third but doesn't seem to want to go to fourth. The shifts are smooth, no jerking or flaring, although they seemed a bit high in rpm's compared to my 240. I had it up to 60, a few of times, and it still wouldn't go to fourth. The seller, who was along for the ride, said, "it'll go in eventually". I didn't feel comfortable pushing it any further so I didn't and began to wonder if every time they drove it, the engine was pushed to over 60mph, in 3rd, to get it to shift to 4th?
Wondering if there's something relatively minor, adjustment/part, etc. that will get the trans shifting a little better. The vacuum system seems tight. My 240D shifts smooth as butter. No jerk or flare, nice and easy.
Many more positive attributes about the Carolina car. Just thought I'd ask about what might be, or should be, a deal breaker.....

Not sure which transmission you have.

From the ASTG manual Transmisson 722.3 or 4
Transmission slips during the 3-4 shirt.
1 Check the modulating pressure and if needed adjust

2 Exchange the shift valve housing

3 renew inner plates of clutch K2, recondition clutch according to condition.

Concerning number 2 it was way in the past, but some member had found broken springs in the shift valve housing.

I don't know if the symptoms are the same if you have a different model of transmission.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

During my test drive, I never got the trans to shift from 3rd to 4th. It wasn't a "slip", it was a "no shift". Seemed odd because it shifted fine in all the other gears. No slips or flares.
Could modulating pressure still be a culprit in light of, otherwise, normal shifting?
Also wondering if the 3/2 valves could be involved? I did notice the small, crescent shaped levers on the valves are worn pretty thin (black plastic cover was missing).

I THINK those start in 2nd unless you floor it and hit the kick down switch, or manually shift it into L. If that is the case, they you would only have 3 shifts unless you kicked it down. If it really is going only into 3rd, they the price is way too high.

Unfortunately, I can only pick from what the manual offers that are the closest to your symptoms.

Except for replacing a B2 piston I have no other transmission experience.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have the exact same car....year, model, engine, trans, etc. Does not "start in 2nd" Also, if the car started in 2nd, and everything was working properly, there would only be 2 shifts, i.e. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. Or, in the case of the car in question, only 1 shift from 2nd to 3rd....where it seems to want to hang out.

I'm gonna have another look at the car this weekend and be able to check things more thoroughly. Who knows, might find "something".

I greatly appreciate your input. Thanks for the advice.

The trans in my current '83 240D, which seems identical to the "for sale" car, is a 722.117. I'll get the number this weekend, when I see the car again.
Hoping it's modulator pressure/malfunction or something vacuum related (lines, fittings, cracks, etc).

Don't know if it's a "good idea" or not, but I'm considering swapping the vacuum modulator from my 240 (which is shifting properly) to this car just to see in there's an improvement or change. Possibly the VCV, as well.

I'll have more info after this weekend. I'll post what I find, if anything.
Maybe a few pics, too.

Really appreciate you checking the manual for possibilities.
Thanks

I don't diagnose in front of a seller. Anything that doesn't work is a discount. $3800 is a lot for a car with transmission issues and a high starting point for getting a discount worth your time.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Thanks for your input and advice. Agree 100%. Main reason for even considering this car is the virtually rust free condition. Other reasons
Include very strong runner (lots of power compared to mine) and superior handling (recent complete front end rebuild). I may be wrong, but feel those 3 things alone make this car a consideration. Yes, $3800 is too much. I think I'll be able to get it for under 3k.
Of course, the car market is nuts right now. Add to the fact I really dont know what a 123 in this condition is worth, currently. Also considering the ridiculous prices nice examples are commanding, I'd think $2,000 wouldnt be too far off. I just dont know and why I reached out to the forum. I'd imagine location in the country has a lot to do with the value, too.
When I bought my 83 240D, the transmission acted horrible...flaring, banging shifts or not shifting at all. Turned out to be only bad vacuum lines. Took care if that and it's been a daily for the last 4 years. Paid $1,000 four years ago (which many have said was way too much). Thanks again!

I realize this is a completely different car, 5 yrs newer and comparing apples to oranges, but, apparently this is what 2 grand will get you in the "fog belt". Mileage wasnt given. No thanks.
Seller probably wont get anything close to that asking price....

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/w201-190d-2-5-5-cylinder.3109552/

Didn't notice at first, but, one of the pics shows the mileage at approx. 329,000 miles.

The terrible paint w/ rust on the hood will scare away most buyers. I suspect just a mistake by someone trying to rattle-can fix-er. Wouldn't be a hard fix if the rest of the paint is fine. Remove the fuel fill door and take to an auto paint shop to match the color (or use paint code) and buy 1 qt of single-stage polyurethane paint w/ hardener and reducer. Easy to mask off just the hood. If no air compressor, you could use a Harbor Freight electric spray gun or use "roll and tip" method. Sand and buff shiny and could look better than a new car. I don't know about those 190D cars, so not for me.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I'd go with a fistful of dollars and offer him $2 K for it .

Even if you need to replace the tranny it'd be a good buy with no rust and good front end .

If you buy this one, contact me OFF LIST for details on how to save the tranny in it and make shift properly again .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Thank you sir. Appreciate your insight into the situation. I have similar feelings but can't be sure due to lack of experience and the current crazy car market. Honestly think $2K would be an excellent deal!

Another thing I forgot to mention is that the "data plate" on the core support is missing. Don't know if this is a "red flag" or how it should affect my buying decision.

Haven't done anything or seen the car again, since my initial post. Came down with the flu the next week, then Thanksgiving, working full time during it all. Fortunately, the owner and his wife (it's her car) are very reasonable, nice people, not in a hurry and want the car to go to someone that wants it and is gonna treat it right (that's me ).

The car is an hour and a half from home and I'd like to be able to drive it back as opposed to flat bed it. Main reason I was initially inquiring about a possible "easy fix" for the 4th gear issue.

If it's "ok", I'd like to contact you "off list" and get your thoughts on what I might do to get the trans to shift from 3rd to 4th (at a reasonable RPM). That's really the only issue I'd be concerned about for driving it back.

This happened to me once in my 1982 240D .

I put the shift lever in "[B]S[B]" and drove it home in third gear .

Just don't pin the throttle and zoom it home .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Thanks Mr Nate. Appreciate your suggestion. Unfortunately, the quickest route home is all interstate with the posted speed being 70 mph for most of the drive. As I'm sure you know, any vehicle actually driving at the posted speed is rare and unusual. Lots of big trucks and semi's traveling this corridor, as well.

I have the option of using a state route, also. This will, of course, extend my travel time significantly. However, it's probably a lot safer all things considered. Also, I really don't have any reason to be in a hurry.

Gonna speak with the owner today. Will try and find out how much, if at all, they'd be willing to drop the price. Depending on that, this entire conversation may be moot.

Thanks again!