Well, I just wrote a long explanation about my car's problems and hit enter and it was lost. Very frustrating...

Our E320 BlueTec is eating oil, went into limp mode on a freeway trip and is not a happy camper.

A friend came over with his scanner, a high dollar SnapOn and found the following codes. His machine will read the codes and clear them, but, it won't tell us what they mean. I would greatly appreciate if someone with Star software could look these up for me. I've searched the web and cannot find info directly for the om642.

P2359
P2940
P2624
P2633
P2355

Well, I just wrote a long explanation about my car's problems and hit enter and it was lost. Very frustrating...

Our E320 BlueTec is eating oil, went into limp mode on a freeway trip and is not a happy camper.

A friend came over with his scanner, a high dollar SnapOn and found the following codes. His machine will read the codes and clear them, but, it won't tell us what they mean. I would greatly appreciate if someone with Star software could look these up for me. I've searched the web and cannot find info directly for the om642.

P2359
P2940
P2624
P2633
P2355

UPDATE 9/1:

Here is the full story. History, problems, and work done. I've searched other forums, google, etc. without finding out much.

History:
purchased 2017 with 131k not a lot of service records.
Car has oil changes at 5-6k with Pentozin 5w-40 229.51, mann filters
car gets 32-33mpg highway.
Car has 167.6K

Problems
135K oil cooler seal, timing chain, and tranny service. (independent shop)
150K MAF assembly replaced due to codes P2355, P2633 Have never been able to clear codes since.
162k oil change before 1200 mile trip. 400 miles into trip "ADD OIL notice". Car used 3.5 quarts in total
163K replaced ccv assembly and ccv mount. Cleaned out MAF to turbo tube
167.2K oil change, it was down 1 quart.
Took 250 mile day trip, 125 miles stopped, 33mpg, no problems
returning, 60 miles into trip, cruise control shut off and lost turbo boost, drove to house. 1 mile before home, stopped and filled car. 32mpg. started car and ran fine turbo and cruise control working.
167.4K it has used a pint of oil in 400 miles.

This takes me back to the opening codes found.

Work done:

1. Removed MAF assembly and found oil in the tube.
2. Removed ccv and found oil also
3. Disconnected and removed turbo actuator, opened, no broken wires or stripped gears
4. Inspected turbo, actuator lever moves freely, checked shaft spins easily, minimal play. Not a turbo expert, but, only side to side, nothing front/rear
5. Started car with electrical connections in place, ran at idle speed only
saw smoke vapor coming from ccv tube off white color
6. Loosened oil fill cap and laid there not bouncing. (quick blow by check)
7. removed aluminum tube from turbo to baffle and baffle. Both have oil in them. (teaspoon in tube, still draining baffle)

Questions:
1. Can anyone tell me what the codes are?
2. Has anyone had similar problem with excessive oil consumption? What was the cause?
3. Has anyone done a leak down test on om642? If so, please share the method.

In closing, I'm thinking either blown seal in turbo or blowby in the engine causing oil consumption, but, would really like to figure how to determine before spending a lot of money.

Thanks, Brian

I dont have Star but a google of OM642 + each code above will get you on the right path. The same motor is used on a number of MB, Jeep, and Sprinter vehicles.

Highly recommend you invest in a mid-range scanner if you will be keeping the car long term. I spent ~$150 on the Foxwell NT510 Elite for my 09 W211 Bluetec and have been happy with it. Hopefully the SnapOn was able to read all the various MB modules. The Foxwell can, and it is very useful vs the more basic code readers.

__________________
2009 E320 Bluetec - 242k miles and a work in progress!

Waarreagle

Thank you for responding. I've already been down that path before posting to no avail. You ideas are appreciated.

Had 09 in shop with same issue, approximately 250k miles sucking oil down. I never tore it down to see what was up with it.

Here is a blowby test:

blowby test

You will eventually have issues with the the exhaust system plugging if oil is going through engine. That was the case of the one that came in shop. Seems they had been running the wrong oil in it since new.

__________________
Jim

I saw this thread and was going to respond when I got back from my work trip (yes I still travel for work most every week!).

First of all some oil (meaning a little accumulation in the bottom of the intake tubes) is completely normal on the OM642.

The most critical piece to watch after is the red ring rubber gasket between the y-pipe (the one from the air boxes) and the turbo inlet. If this is leaky then oil that accumulates from the PCV breather hose input at that area leaks down and shorts out the swirl flap motor beneath.

I have been battling oil consumption (1 qt every couple thousand miles) on my son’s 2008 E320 BT and found the following things that needed fixing. Car has 230 k miles on it.

Guessing on the prices here, I get my parts from the dealership, I am MBCA so I get a 10% off.

- Replaced the crankcase breather puck going into the turbo ($200).
- Also replaced the fitting that goes in the back of the head where the breather plugs into. There is a seal in there that wears out, and oil just blows past that seal if it is worn and sucked into the PCV and into the intake. ($150)
- Oil filter tower gaskets - there are 2, one at the junction to the head and the other in the neck. MB wants you to buy a whole new filter tower ($200) but there is a Dorman kit that has both gaskets ($40).
- Oil filler cap - I noticed the area below that was oil soaked. I got a new cap at the dealer ($20) and cleaned it all up. So far that is staying clean, but I only did that recently. I have had his car for the last 2 weeks because it needed a new ac compressor (just got that done last weekend) and it hasn’t been driven enough to know if that will help.
- We also replaced the turbo last year when the actuator died. Found a brand new Garrett turbo on Amazon ($1250).

Car does not appear to be burning oil - I don’t smell it in the exhaust and the exhaust pipes have only a light coating of soot that doesn’t smell like burnt oil.

As far as the code list, I have a list of the fault codes for the 642 but they are the MB format, not the OBDII Pxxx format.

More to come when I get back home.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Engatwork and Jay_Bob

Thanks for responding! I have done the quick blow by test with the oil fill cap and it sits there not bouncing.

The (PCV) ccv mount on the back of the right head and ccv assembly were replaced 5k miles ago.

I am removing the front bumper today to check the tubes for cracks and cleaning out the intercooler. I'm sure it is full of slug.

I'll keep everyone informed as to what I find.

Thanks,
Brian

Check down the front of the engine for leaks while you have stuff apart and see if either your oil filter tower or the oil cap is leaking. Easy enough to do while you have it apart.

Bumper removal, you have to put the car up on stands and take the front tires and the front half of the fender liners off. And of course the front belly pan.

There is a clamp with a Torx screw at the seam between the fender and the bumper cover. The screw comes out and then pivot the clamp out to release the fender/bumper cover joint. The rest of it is pretty obvious, couple bolts up front near the headlights if I remember right. Watch out and have help when you pull it, there is an electrical connection for the fog lights and the temperature sensor (and ParkTronic if you have it) on a short leash and you need someone to help hold the cover while unplugging the connector.

Another trick is it is easy to remove the fan and get a ton more room up front. The metal cross brace comes out (a handful of bolts and push pins). Flip it over and unclip the hood release cable. Then look for 2 clips at the top, pull those off. Reach down and release the hose from the clips on the back of the fan shroud. Then pull the plug (upper right corner) and lift straight up. Just be careful to protect the back side of the radiator.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

I've always thought the way this fastener works is a pretty neat design for application.

__________________
Jim

I removed the intercooler and have it draining. The bumper came off pretty easy, once I figured out how the bracket worked holding the cover to the front fender. I disconnected the lights and ambient temperature sensor before removal of the cover.

Front of the engine is pretty clean, old residue from bad gasket on oil cap that has been replaced.

I did find a new leak under the car. The rear stamped metal oil pan is wet. There is a sensor in the pan that appears to be leaking or wet. Can't find the sensor on any site I've searched. I hope the oil cooler seal has not gone bad. Again....

found cracks in the passenger side intercooler tube and ordered a new one. So, it will be down for several days waiting on parts.

I'd have to see pic to say for sure but sensor you described sounds like oil level sensor.

__________________
Jim

9/19 UPDATE:
Finally received all the parts and performed several additional service items and checks.
Turbo and feed system:
Removed variable vane actuator motor, opened, checked worm gear and “jumper” wires. All good.
Replaced the feed tube O-ring seal at turbocharger.
Replaced O-ring seal at noise dampener.
Cleaned intercooler and reinstalled with new passenger side rubber hose
Replaced both air filters even though old ones were 90% clean
Replaced orange seal for MAF intake to turbo. Just because…
EGR:
Removed EGR and replaced O-ring seal. It was surprisingly clean! It had soot but no carbon chunks or buildup around the valve stem or seat.
Performed coolant flush and replaced thermostat. Because coolant needs to be drained for EGR removal.
(Note NAPA has ZEREX G-48 (blue) anti-freeze on sale this month for $18.99
After getting the car reassembled, I took it for a test drive and floored it. The car went into limp mode again. I can turn the car off and wait a few minutes and it will drive find at low speeds. If I accelerate and then let off on the throttle “coasting” it will go back into limp mode. A fellow MB friend just purchased a iCarsoft MB V2.0 scanner and we went through it yesterday.
Codes found:
2611.001 NOX regen Lambda value too high
2553.001 system memory full?
2011.001 MAF open circuit/short circuit to positive
2013.004 MAF open circuit/short circuit to positive
2624.001 MAF sensor drift under load. Limit point 1 exceeded.
2633.001 MAF sensor drift under load. Limit point 2 exceeded.
P codes found:
P2A00 O2 sensor
P0101 Mass Airflow Sensor
P0171 system too lean bank 1
After scanning and clearing all codes we drove the car and it went into limp mode under the acceleration then coast scenario. The car did not have CEL on. Returned home, turned the car off, restarted the car and CEL came on. Did another scan
P0101 both stored and 3 pending. None of the other codes came back.
At this point not sure what to think! MAF assembly was replaced at 150k.

I am still self educating on my recently acquired OM642 but it looks pretty convincing that you have a MAF issue. I would think the iCarsoft would tell you which MAF is acting up - there are 2. Were both replaced at 150? What brand part was used? Can the scanner show you live data from the MAF while you drive?

__________________
2009 E320 Bluetec - 242k miles and a work in progress!

If your 2008 OM642 is the same as our 2012 model, your MAF sensors are located in the "batwing" intake assembly that connects to the Turbo and the air filters. I don't believe you can buy just the MAF sensors, they are a part of the batwing itself and you have to buy the unit as an assembly. At least it is that way on the 2012. It will come with two new MAF sensors already installed.

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

Yes, It is an assembly and it is genuine Mercedes part. The old one had cracks at the air filter housing in the flex hose sections. I'm thinking the MAF code is a symptom not the root cause. The P0101 is more of a generic code. But, thanks for the input.

Also, when we were driving the car the dynamic values seemed to be in tolerance. We plugged the scanner into an '05 e320 (gas) and drove it and the values matched. The o2 sensors also matched running between .4v to .9v.