The shop where the car is getting painted just said that the starter continues to crank after the key is released.


This car has ~250,000 mi on it and I'd like to rebuild the starter rather than hassling with the parts car with 200,000 mi on it orbuying from The McParts store.


Since I don't have the starter in my hand, I'm hoping someone knows the details on what parts to buy. Hopefully, I'll be putting the car back together in the next couple of weeks.

Another project just landed on my desk. My 00 Cummins harmonic balancer is showing signs of deterioration and needs to be dealt with before it turns into a cluster .... headache.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

There is a number on the Starter Body that will say what model of Starter you have.

One of the reasons for the Starter not releasing can be the condition of the teeth on the Ring Gear.
Putting a board over the Starter Solenoid and striking the board a shape blow with a light hammer may release it.

The original Brushes and such are welded to the Brush Holder and so on. So unless you have some way to weld the Brush wire ends to the Brush Holder be sure to get Brushes that have the Metal Tab and setup for screws on them. There is Bosch Brush sets available on ebay.
Beware of starter Brush Kits that don't have the sheetmetal tabs attached.

The Brush Plate and Field Wires are already drilled for the screw on Brushes and so forth.

There is eBay sellers that sell Monark various Starter Repair Kits but there is various Kits. The more complete Monark Kits have the Bushings. However there is an intermediate plate that has a bushing that is heavily staked I did not deal with it and I did not replace any bushings.

I had been meaning to start a thread on what I did but never did it. Wrote down some but now my memory is getting hazy on it.
I first ordered a Bosch Brush Set and that is what I used.

I later ordered the more complete Monark Starter Repair Kit out of curiosity and I figured if I don't ever use it I could sell it. Also an attached picture.

In order to find out which monark kit was for my Starter I had to measure the inside diameter of the bushings and estimate the outside diameter and length.
Note for some reason the Monark Kit does not come with the scres, washers and nuts that the Bosch Starter Brush kit comes with.


I took some pics.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks, that's enough information to know that I'll have to deal with it once I get the car back.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

My problem was no starter engagement (just that infamous click and no cranking). My first thought was Starter solenoid. But, as it turned out as one of our members suggested if your Starter Brushes are worn out the Solenoid won't function as it is supposed to.
Although I had bought a new Solenoid I decided to test the members theory about the Solenoid issue being caused by worn brushes and I reused the original solenoid and it has been 4 months with the Starter operating perfectly.

If you read the starter rebuild threads another issue is that the Solenoid retaining Screws which are Phillips Head Screws are frequently rusted in place and the heads strip when you try to remove them. And, as in the thread I read I had to drill off the heads to get it apart.
I replaced them with stainless steel Allen Head bolts/screws.

I mention this because the Monark Kit comes with Phillips Head Screws. If you use them be sure to use a never-seize type compound on them so they won't rust in place.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

These are the actually numbers that were on my Starter

Number on Starter Body- 433 Bosch 0 001 362 600 (when I looked for parts the had something like: Starter Repair Kit Fits Bosch 362 366 Series Bosch Starters) so you can see what part of the number on the Bosch Starter was used to ID it for parts 0 001 362 600

Number on original solenoid 0331402501 While I used this number to look with the replacement did not have the same number.


Number on original pinion 2 006 209 500 I did not order another one so I don't know if there is a different number for the replacement.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have that same 001362600 Bosch starter. But it is dead

Replacement is Bosch SR67X Reman. But only sources here in Canada, want something like C$350++ once shipping, return of core etc are dialed in.

I bought a low cost reman Bosch, but it is from ACDelco. Not sure where that was rebuilt or how that will work out, so already looking at rebuilding existing once we have it out.

I searched, but it seems hard to find those rebuild kits. What would it cost for the kit plus a new solenoid?

Our local rebuilder quoted me "under" C$200 to rebuild my starter. Half of that labor, I would think.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

when my starter stopped working (click), I drilled out the solenoid screw heads and cleaned up the plunger in the solenoid so it could move freely again.
Cost me $3 for new screws from AceHardware.

To replace the brushes in an old alternator (motorola) I got some slightly oversized brushes (7 bucks oreillys) and easily shaped them down until they fit in the slots. It's probably not recommended diy, but carbon brushes sand down easy. Just have to source a brush with the proper wire soldered into it. Sands like a big pencil lead, which it is.

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1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI

I would not be quick to condemn the solenoid. Just as one of the members said if the Brushes are won the solenoid won't work. Although I bought a new Bosch Solenoid I reused the old one and it has been over 5 months with no issues.

From my notes: I ordered a new Starter Solenoid which I did not use but my original starter solenoid number is 0331402501 but the replacement solenoid has a different number Replacement Bosch Solenoid is 0 331 402 001 ( Alternate number 31 035) and it is the 31 035 number that was prominent on the box label."

I used a Bosch Starter Brush kit- 2 007 914 065
However I also ordered a Monark Sarter Repair kit that came with the internal bushings, brushes (but no screws), solenoid screws and other parts.

I looked on Canadian ebay and they have the monark kits but I could not ID which kit because there starter listings only go down to a starter with 367 in the number. Which is a higher number then my Starter.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I haven't had much luck searching for repair parts on .com or .ca sites. Did find Monark brush kit with screws! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monark-Carbon-Brush-Set-For-Bosch-Starter-001-362-363-366-367-/322577682686

I would think that other key parts would be the solenoid (Contacts that carry full starting amps, likely to deteriorate) and the drive/clutch/springs. I have a starter out of my SL here, and I think the problem was with the drive not retracting properly.

I find that a picture helps

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Looks like I bought the Starter Parts in Sep and Oct of 2019 and that was before the Virus took hold. The Monark Kit came either from a German or East European seller.
The Bosch Brush kit was from a US seller at that time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Looks like I bought the Starter Parts in Sep and Oct of 2019 and that was before the Virus took hold. The Monark Kit came either from a German or East European seller.
The Bosch Brush kit was from a US seller at that time.

I looked on Canadian eBay and there was some monark starter repair kits but not for your number of starter; or at least it was not on their list. Contacting the seller might give more info on that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ok thanks. Parts must be available near us. Our rebuilder gets any parts he needs overnight. Maybe not retail though.
I won't do anything until I get the starter off. Maybe I will have a look at my old 107 starter as a learning process!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

If you look in the repair links Dangerousdan or was it Dangerous Dan I believe is the one that had a decent write up on the starter take down and rebuild.

Be sure to clean out the sockets on the bolt heads. But,
I still had trouble getting the starter bolts off with the extensions and U-joints with an allen socket (10mm allen head) or old age just made me really impatient.
I drilled holes through the Fire Wall to get at the Starter Bolts feeling it could be useful if I had to get at the starter some times. But, my Car is a beater and has rust and was hit and run x2 so I don't need to worry about keeping it in premium condition.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have read that write-up. I could do it, but, without lift, I am not going to try. Lying on back under car not recommended for 80 yr olds! Have friend with lift, but long tow needed to get there and then hard to move unpowered cars around to access lift. So CAA will tow car to nearby shop. They replaced starter on my 107 (2 1/2 hrs labor), which is even more difficult to get at.

Once starter is out, I will look at whether it is worthwhile trying a DIY repair.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5