WIS says to apply 2bar pressure, then bleed each caliper in turn. Nothing else. (Just re-checked!)

I replaced the ABS pump on my W210, and followed the WIS instructions. Worked ever since

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Both are good but I've had far better results faster with pressure bleeders .

Mind you : I work on a lot of different vehicles so this may make a difference .

Some even have the bleeder valve below the attachment point of the brake hose, this makes bleeding them particularly difficult .

Agreed : never more than 5PSI .

So far I've never had to work on an ABS equipped vehicle .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Hey, if it says 2 bar, then 30psi it is!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Well, the back of the bleeder tank reads: "Pressurize Power Bleeder to level recommended in vehicle service manual. Do not exceed 20 psi."
Surprise : As far as I know, I have no pressure recommended in my 1985's manuals including the FSMs.
I may have the dung on my face for saying this, LOL:
I usually pressurized to 15 psi. When the hosing failed, pressurization was around 13 psi or so (I can't say for sure because I was busy pressurizing).
Yeah, I get from the other posts here that 15 psi is way out of line.

As I wrote in my last post here, I am completely okay with low pressurization and placing no fluid in the tank and doing 2 pressurization rounds for the 4 wheels. In fact, with new hose, my intention is to never place fluid in the tank going forward.

Live and learn.

Thanks again to all who have posted.

Same here....never put fluid in mine, just use it for pressure only and it is still going strong after 15 years!.

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

My old Motive Power Bleeder got thrown away unexpectedly, but I have a new one coming in and will make note of this. I had one instance where I filled the old bleeder up when it was new and it started spewing brake fluid from the cap. No fluid in the reservoir will allow me not to repeat that mistake again!

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

Well, here's the final chapter...

Power Bleeder:
1. Removed all of the old hosing and clamps.
2. Using denatured alcohol (per Motive Products instructions), thoroughly cleaned the pump+associated o-ring, tank (including the output port), brass fittings, and the adapter+associated gasket.
3. Fitted new hosing and installed clamps.
My basic philosophy: Remove all of the brake fluid residue and start over essentially from the beginning.

Brake system flush:
1. Pressurized the empty tank to 10psi.
2. Topped-up the reservoir after each wheel (didn't bother me).
3. Bled each wheel as usual.

Additional benefit from using an empty tank: Consumed a bit under 1 quart of fluid for the whole job. This is excellent for the environment and my pocket book as 2 quarts were required when I was filling the tank.

That is all.

Mine also failed a couple of years ago, a nice upgrade is to go to fuel injection pressure rated hose during the replacement. It's a bit more expensive but its rated for much higher pressures than standard low-pressure fuel line hose that came with the bleeder.

Not sure but I'd also guess its a higher grade of rubber.

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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (137K)
13 GLK250 (157k)
06 E320CDI (341K)
16 C300 (89K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

Had the same prob as OP. Cheap hose caused a 15psi geyser of brake fluid. Returned mine to FCP euro (lifetime warranty) and trucked on... I suppose I could actually fix the issue, but it’s easier to just return/replace

One thing never mentioned here is that often having the brakes bled by a shop is surprisingly inexpensive....for an otherwise annoying and unpleasant job. Our local German Auto Indy does it for about $135 including fluid!....quite worth it if the car is already there for other stuff. I had them do it on my W210 when they were doing control arm/ball joint replacements.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Holy smokes - $135! All it costs is 1 litres of brake fluid. Very simple and easy to do with a pressure bleeder. Not messy at all. I often do it while rotating tires. It's also a good time to have a look at suspension and lube calipers.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5