Door Not Closing/Latching Door Striker Repair W123 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #1 01-26-2020, 01:45 AM

Door Not Closing/Latching Door Striker Repair W123
This is about repair even if it is only a temp repair till you get replacement.

The cause is the piece of rubber that protrudes about 3/16th of an inch from the Striker is gone. That is the part that is most responsible for pushing the Latch in the door into position.

In the first pic is one where the rubber is still attached and good. But, that is the part that comes of over time.

In my first repair I used Epoxy Putty to replace that rubber sort of nose. It worked but before a year was out cracked off. Although partially cracked off 2 continued to work.

So today I had to fix the other 2 on the drivers side. I used a Hot Glue Gun with the Glue Stick. The hot glue is a better replacement then the epoxy because it is more rubber like. Due to the clearness of the Glue Stick it is hard to see how much I built it up in the photo
Note that they do have black glue sticks available that would make it look better.

Having just done it today I don't know the longevity of the glue stick repair. However, I had previously bought 2 cheap Door Striker assemblies and they lasted about 1 year before that same rubber piece came off.

After hollowing out the area inside of the Striker where the rubber strip goes you can do the Epoxy or hot glue repair without removing the Striker from the Door Frame. However, do not get anything into the groove on the bottom of the Striker.

Diseasel300 · #2 01-26-2020, 11:13 AM

That isn't the only part that's important for the striker to operate correctly, there's also a plastic piece in the square hole on the bottom that breaks off (you can see where it used to be in your 2nd photo. The door will still close and latch happily for years with the leading plastic piece that you repaired broken off, you just have to close it slightly harder. When the lower piece in the square hole goes, that's when you have to start slamming super hard multiple times and have failure to latch.

vwnate1 · #3 01-26-2020, 11:26 AM

An interesting repair, I hope it works out .

You live in Long Beach so why not just go buy some good strikers ? . they're the same in W126's and as long as that black rubber bit is still black and uncracked you're good to go .

The repops are crap and not worth spit .

New are still available, not cheap but not horribly $pendy either .

Shern · #4 01-26-2020, 01:14 PM

Actually... The repro internals are totally fine. It’s the body of the repros that are poorly stamped.
Based on information you provided in the last one of these threads, I pulled a couple 126 strikers from the yard. Couldn’t find any with good rubber, so brought them home and transferred the rubber from the two meyle/uro units I had on the car. I’ll be damned... They work perfectly now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

An interesting repair, I hope it works out .

You live in Long Beach so why not just go buy some good strikers ? . they're the same in W126's and as long as that black rubber bit is still black and uncracked you're good to go .

The repops are crap and not worth spit .

New are still available, not cheap but not horribly $pendy either .

Junkman · #5 01-26-2020, 03:41 PM

I tried repairing by cutting wood to fit where the rubber piece that sticks out goes. That didn't work but I didn't know about the square hole in pic 2 above.

Lubed latches seem to prevent the rubber piece damage but open for discussion is what lube to use. Some attract dirt and become a problem. Graphite seem to work but I've read of it messing up lock tumblers so don't know for sure that it is a great solution.

So, what lube?

vwnate1 · #6 01-26-2020, 08:11 PM

Graphite is the only thing you should use in key lock cylinders, it cannot and never has, gummed up anything .

Latches should be lubed with a heavy grease / oil typ lubricant, there are many that are largely 'dustless' as they go on thin, usually in a liquid form then the carrying agent evaporates leaving you grease that's not sticky to dust .

? Remember being in the Military long long ago ? .

Those little plastic tubs of rifle grease you kept in the butt stock's trap door were Lubriplate special dustless grease, it's fantastic stuff and cheaper than dirt, I buy a bunch of tiny tubs at a time and they last me a few decades....

Diesel911 · #7 01-27-2020, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

That isn't the only part that's important for the striker to operate correctly, there's also a plastic piece in the square hole on the bottom that breaks off (you can see where it used to be in your 2nd photo. The door will still close and latch happily for years with the leading plastic piece that you repaired broken off, you just have to close it slightly harder. When the lower piece in the square hole goes, that's when you have to start slamming super hard multiple times and have failure to latch.

In photo #2 that is epoxy that I put on in the slot area.

Diseasel300 · #8 01-27-2020, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

In photo #2 that is epoxy that I put on in the slot area.

No. Look at picture 2. There's a big square hole on the bottom of the striker where the latch secures. You can clearly see the broken off piece of plastic in there. That is the piece that bumps the latch "home", when it breaks off, the latch half-catches but doesn't latch into place, thus requiring multiple slams and failure to latch.

Diesel911 · #9 01-27-2020, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

No. Look at picture 2. There's a big square hole on the bottom of the striker where the latch secures. You can clearly see the broken off piece of plastic in there. That is the piece that bumps the latch "home", when it breaks off, the latch half-catches but doesn't latch into place, thus requiring multiple slams and failure to latch.

The front lip and the lip under the rear bottom are both made of the same piece of molded rubber that is inserted under that larger piece with the hole and tube in it.

It is not plastic (the reason I believe it is just harder rubber is that you can stick your thumb Nail and it will grab into it a little) but it gets hard as it gets older and why it breaks off.

What it is made of you are seeing in the picture you described is where the lip broke off and in that particular picture I replaced both lips with epoxy putty.

Here is a site that has some pics of the separate pieces.

NEW W123 Door Strikers/Latches Out of Spec !

Concerning the job I did in this thread with the hot glue it fixed the 2 problems I had on that side. Since it fixed the issue I did that I did not look further to see if there was any issues on the underside.
Also my Wife has the Car and lives 10 miles in another City at my other House and I cannot look to see if the rear underside lip is intact on the ones I did the hot glue repair on.

Concerning the side I fixed with the Epoxy Putty that was done over 1 year ago and although part of the putty has cracked off they are still working.

As I said these repairs could get your doors to close till you can do something better.

I did an google image search and now I am seeing a what is listed as a W126 Door Striker and it seems to have a white plastic insert. But that does not mean original W123s have the white plastic insert.
That is at this site: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1568388

There is a title W126 Mercedes Door Striker Rubber but no image is opening for me but that could be due to the dial up internet.

vwnate1 · #10 01-27-2020, 10:07 PM

That's the one ~ Mercedes redesigned it but it fits perfectly and is what the Classic Center sells you .

Before you go the !$! route, take the time to diligently search the junkyards, I never have any problems finding perfect ones in W126's.....

They're a bugger to get out unless you have some sort of impact tool .

Only take the rear ones, they're always less worn .

Diesel911 · #11 01-28-2020, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

That's the one ~ Mercedes redesigned it but it fits perfectly and is what the Classic Center sells you .

Before you go the !$! route, take the time to diligently search the junkyards, I never have any problems finding perfect ones in W126's.....

They're a bugger to get out unless you have some sort of impact tool .

Only take the rear ones, they're always less worn .

Ever since I broke my hip back in 2011 and had two operations ending up with a hip replacement my lust for stabling around in the Junk Yard carrying my Tool Box has pretty much ended.

martureo · #12 01-28-2020, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Ever since I broke my hip back in 2011 and had two operations ending up with a hip replacement my lust for stabling around in the Junk Yard carrying my Tool Box has pretty much ended.

Do you want a box of spares?

I pull them from every door of every car while I'm in a junkyard. I have a drawer full of spares now. You pay postage and I'll ship a bunch to you.

URO Parts Support · #13 01-28-2020, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shern

Actually... The repro internals are totally fine. It’s the body of the repros that are poorly stamped. Based on information you provided in the last one of these threads, I pulled a couple 126 strikers from the yard. Couldn’t find any with good rubber, so brought them home and transferred the rubber from the two meyle/uro units I had on the car. I’ll be damned... They work perfectly now.

Thanks for the tips guys, we're contacting the vendor for these (who appears to sell them to all or most of the aftermarket brands) and asking them to correct the problems with the bracket. Doesn't mean they will, but it's worth a try. If they fix them for us, they'll be fixing them for everyone. We sell about 400 of each side annually with zero returns, but it's possible most of these are going to shops who are buying them just for the inserts.

Here's what we're reporting to the vendor:

- Bolt holes in bracket aren’t countersunk as deeply as OE, resulting in bolt heads protruding from bracket.

- Radius of bends at the base of bracket are too large, which distorts the countersunk hole so the bolt heads don’t seat properly. The bolt head hits the bent area before it seats.

- Radius of one of the top bends is too small, resulting in poor fit of insert assembly, inadequate support of plastic insert, and premature insert failure.

Diesel911 · #14 01-28-2020, 01:26 PM

In the Case if My Car where the Door would not close let along lock it is not a good idea to take it to the Junkyard with the door unable to lock unless you leave someone in the Car to watch over the Car.
I mean people bring there tools there to get cheap parts. Not a good idea to have a Car with a Door that won't close in that environment.

Diseasel300 · #15 01-28-2020, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by URO Parts Support

Thanks for the tips guys, we're contacting the vendor for these (who appears to sell them to all or most of the aftermarket brands) and asking them to correct the problems with the bracket. Doesn't mean they will, but it's worth a try. If they fix them for us, they'll be fixing them for everyone. We sell about 400 of each side annually with zero returns, but it's possible most of these are going to shops who are buying them just for the inserts.

Here's what we're reporting to the vendor:

- Bolt holes in bracket aren’t countersunk as deeply as OE, resulting in bolt heads protruding from bracket.

- Radius of bends at the base of bracket are too large, which distorts the countersunk hole so the bolt heads don’t seat properly. The bolt head hits the bent area before it seats.

- Radius of one of the top bends is too small, resulting in poor fit of insert assembly, inadequate support of plastic insert, and premature insert failure.

Add: Poor quality plastic/rubber in the hard parts of the latch crumbles away prematurely. I had 4 of the Uro brand strikers in my SDL and every one of them died in the span of 1-2 years (even the doors that weren't used often). This is not only my experience by the way...there's a reason people say to shell out for the dealer part if you want it to last.

The factory parts lasted 30+ years. It's simply unacceptable for an aftermarket part to last 1/30 of that. I don't care how little it costs, free is too much for that. I'd love to have aftermarket parts that have some sort of life expectancy but replacing door strikers yearly is not something that's considered "normal" on any brand of vehicle.