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  #16  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximan1 View Post
Don't you remember? HM essentially said all shops are scam artists and can't do anything right, so he does all the work on his cars himself.

Can't wait for another few weeks of exhaust related threads from this guy.

I was just thinking about this the other day. In the past 30 years of messing around with mercedes and having had many many many indies work on them, I can only think of THREE indy technicians who actually know and understand what they are doing when it comes to german cars.

The rest are certified LOSERS.

Remember, in any given field, only 1 in 1000 actually know, understand and are WILLING to step up to the plate and perform the job CORRECTLY.


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  #17  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Gee, how about taking the car to the shop and having them look and fix it? Or were you just wanting free advice from the shop?


NEWS FLASH: The auto repair shop representative was not looking to acquire a new customer, thus his response.

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  #18  
Old 03-31-2019, 01:00 PM
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The other way of detecting exhaust leaks has to be away from the Coolant Fan. You run the Engine and they take as trip of paper and run it around any joints and see if the exhaust puffing out of a leak makes the paper flutter. I have seen my Boss do that with success.
Due to the possible close quarters it is also a good idea to stare off with the Engine cold even though the exhaust system is going to heat up fast when you start the Engine.

Don't forget to check where the Turbo blots to the Exhaust Manifold.

Obviously you should be able to see any holes.
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  #19  
Old 03-31-2019, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post


NEWS FLASH: The auto repair shop representative was not looking to acquire a new customer, thus his response.
Seems like a lot of shops don't want your business.
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  #20  
Old 03-31-2019, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximan1 View Post
Seems like a lot of shops don't want your business.

That door swings both ways......
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  #21  
Old 04-01-2019, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Look up on the internet on how to use Dawn Dish Soap to make a mix like kids use to make bubbles.
My Wife uses 1 gallon of water to 1 cup of dawn dish soap to make the bubble mix for a whole class of preschoolers.

You put it into one of those pump sprayers and the Engine needs to be cold and you spray it all over the areas you think might be leaking and start the Engine and rev the Engine and look for bubbles coming out of the leaking area. Note that the shop I used to work for used the same method and it works.

Be sure to spray the wrinkled tube after the turbo and the down pipes.

It won't work on a hot engine.
I'm assuming I need to remove the air cleaner before performing this test on the exhaust manifold using the dawn dish soap mixture?
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  #22  
Old 04-03-2019, 11:18 AM
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Planning on starting on this issue Saturday. I am hoping the rattle sound is from the Air Cleaner and not the exhaust system.....
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  #23  
Old 04-03-2019, 12:27 PM
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Give the air filter a good shake with your hands. There should be little to no movement. If there is movement, remove the lid and the air filter element and remove the 3 nuts at the bottom of the housing. Loosen the clamp on the elbow connecting the housing to the turbo. Remove the entire housing and you will see the 3 rubber isolators. Either the isolators will be broken and need to be replaced or the bracket itself is broken and will need to be repaired or replaced. When replacing the bottom portion of the housing it is important to correctly line up the drain tube on the bottom of the air filter housing.
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  #24  
Old 04-03-2019, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BWhitmore View Post
Give the air filter a good shake with your hands. There should be little to no movement. If there is movement, remove the lid and the air filter element and remove the 3 nuts at the bottom of the housing. Loosen the clamp on the elbow connecting the housing to the turbo. Remove the entire housing and you will see the 3 rubber isolators. Either the isolators will be broken and need to be replaced or the bracket itself is broken and will need to be repaired or replaced. When replacing the bottom portion of the housing it is important to correctly line up the drain tube on the bottom of the air filter housing.

Will do, thank you for the advice.
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  #25  
Old 04-03-2019, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
I'm assuming I need to remove the air cleaner before performing this test on the exhaust manifold using the dawn dish soap mixture?


That is likely so. Fortunately I have no had to do this test and also I have not hat the stock Air Filter Housing on mine for many years.
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  #26  
Old 04-03-2019, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
Right after I purchased the house, the A/C stopped cooling. The house had come with a home warranty so I called the warranty company. They sent out an HVAC technician. He looked over the outside unit and then took some time poking around the garage then finally said he was unable to find the source of the problem.

He was loading up his tool box preparing to leave. I then asked, "Might you have a freon leak detector??". His reply: "As a matter of fact, I do." He then ordered his helper to go to the truck and retrieve his freon leak detector. He brought it into the garage and probed around the evaporator. The detector went off LIKE A FIRE ALARM.

Had I been the average dumb a** knowing nothing about HVAC, he would have left the house leaving me high and dry. I still think about that day wondering how many people he screws over daily with his incompetence. Remember, these people are "licensed and insured" for the public's safety.

Right.


If all of the Freon had leaked out of the A/C would the detector still work/alarm?
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  #27  
Old 04-04-2019, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If all of the Freon had leaked out of the A/C would the detector still work/alarm?

The problem began three days earlier when he first came to the house on a service call. Instead of performing diagnostics on the system, he took the easy route and merely filled the system with freon. Three days later the system stopped cooling (surprise).

So.....I called him out again and THIS time he performed a few diagnosis but came up empty handed. Just as he was about to throw in the towel and leave, I asked him if he had a freon leak detector. He told his helper to go retrieve the leak sniffer. After waving it around the evaporator, the leak detector went off LIKE A FIRE ALARM. WOW! coulda had a V8!
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  #28  
Old 04-04-2019, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
The problem began three days earlier when he first came to the house on a service call. Instead of performing diagnostics on the system, he took the easy route and merely filled the system with freon. Three days later the system stopped cooling (surprise).

So.....I called him out again and THIS time he performed a few diagnosis but came up empty handed. Just as he was about to throw in the towel and leave, I asked him if he had a freon leak detector. He told his helper to go retrieve the leak sniffer. After waving it around the evaporator, the leak detector went off LIKE A FIRE ALARM. WOW! coulda had a V8!
Thanks. You are right about the service guy having a dim bulb.

Another possibility is it has to do with they way he gets paid by the insurance company. He could be milking the insurance company.

When I worked as a Mechanic I had seen my Boss listen to the Engine and tell the Truck owner (the Foster Farms Chicken company) the Fuel injection Pump was the cause of his miss when the first thing we normally would have done was test the Injectors.

We removed the Fuel Injection Pump and rebuilt it and re-installed it and of course the miss was still there and we then had to remove the Injectors and test them. Which of course was more Money for the Shop.

My Boss's comment on it was they are a big Corporation and have plenty of Money.

Well the miss got fixed and they were happy but they did not know we did not follow the proper trouble shooting order.
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  #29  
Old 04-06-2019, 03:15 AM
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you could always stuff a rag over the tailpipe for a second to see if the sound increases or decreases. Also, if anyone has a smoke machine, that could be used.... however I have seen it take a long time for enough smoke to build up in the exhaust to see anything.

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  #30  
Old 04-06-2019, 09:06 AM
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I too have had problems with Husky's apparent paranoia but in this case, he came to this maintenance forum with a legitimate question that most of you declined to help with. Can we not suspend attacking him for asking for help?

BTW, I too nominate the air filter can mounts. This is a very common problem. Acquisition of an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope would help isolate this and many other problems with our rattletrap old diesels. Some like the screwdriver-in-the-ear method but it is less effective and I don't like to get my face that close to moving parts.

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