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#1
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oil pan gasket sealer????
Do you use a sealant on a engine oil pan gasket ?
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Revenge is a meal best served cold 1980 300SD, Shotzie 1996 Volvo 850, Dark Night 1997 Ford F350 7.3, The Tuna Clipper |
#2
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From the leak free OM617 thread:
Quote:
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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver) Instagram: @maximed93 |
#3
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Thanks, explains my leak. time to redo.
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Revenge is a meal best served cold 1980 300SD, Shotzie 1996 Volvo 850, Dark Night 1997 Ford F350 7.3, The Tuna Clipper |
#4
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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver) Instagram: @maximed93 |
#5
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Oil Pans around the blot holes warp due to over tightening in an attempt to stop leaks or other reasons like someone evidently used a jack under my pan and dented it.
You can use silicon RTV sealant on the pan and gasket and when it is pressed on carefully flip the pan over on a flat surface you don't mind getting silicon sealant on and push gently on the pan to squeeze out excess and carefully wipe it off. If you put the silicon RTV sealant between the block and the pan wipe the Oil off of the block and uses a minimal amount on the top of the gasket and bolt the pan up. As a precaution when using silicon RTV sealant wait like 4 hours for the stuff to cure so that if it did squeeze out it will still remain attached. If you only wipe off the oil on the Block the gasket will not glue itself to the Block. If you degrease the block area where the gasket seats say with brake cleaner when you install the pan and later take it off you will find the gasket is glued to the Block.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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permatex and loctite both sell gasket dressings, so does hylomar (classic formula) - apply it correctly and tighten correctly. You wont have a leak.
black and gray gasket maker is not a dressing and can cause headaches.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#7
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This is my opinion and my practice.
Any gasket sealer is a band-aid that will be painful to remove later. If the surfaces are clean CLEAN and a torque wrench is used there should be no leaks. This is particularly true for Mercedes-Benz, a car company that takes care in machining mating surfaces. At most, if something is needed to keep the gasket in place while installing, a coating of simple assembly grease can be used. |
#8
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I have never seen an oil pan or an automatic transmission pan an sheet metal valve covers on any vehicle leak because of the machined area. That has nothing to do with it being a Mercedes or not.
It us usually that the previous person that worked on it over torqued it and dented in the sheet metal pan in the areas where the bolt hole are. In that case a torque wrench has less chance of working. In short you are not dealing with a new pan. You choice fix it once or possibly do the job over again and/or put up with some small leak. To me having to do a job over is worse then having to remove the old stuck gasket. One of the things I was taught to do is stick the gasket to the part that you can easily remove so you are not stuck under the vehicle or in some cramped area trying to remove and clean up a gasket. The preference is that sometimes it is better to have the gasket stuck to the steel parts then the aluminum parts especially if you have to scrape off a gasket.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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job update
Ok I drained the new oil"Liqui Molly" and pulled the new pan off. Cleaned the mating surface really good and used the Black oil resistant sealant on both sides of the new gasket. Reinstalled pan and tightened snug with a nut driver. Let it set up for an hour and then torqued them down. I waited 24 hrs before filling with oil. Its been 2 days and its dry with no leaks.
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__________________
Revenge is a meal best served cold 1980 300SD, Shotzie 1996 Volvo 850, Dark Night 1997 Ford F350 7.3, The Tuna Clipper |
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