Got a 1985 300D turbo - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BillGrissom · #16 08-23-2018, 01:58 AM

Your 1985 CA engine is a bit unique. I have one. The "correct" air filter costs ~$40 if you can find one. I posted a Wix PN for a $5 filter you can stack two (for 1978 Toyota MR2, I recall, but search). Yours has no oil separator in the crankcase vent and just recycles oil into the turbo inlet from a rubber tee. That gooks up the turbine vanes and also gets oil on the air filter. Some people rig an oil catch tank - see ebay for turbo tuner parts and one guys fabs one for your engine.

The "trap oxidizer" is a dull cast-iron can under the intake manifold. The factory replacement (forgot the name) is more like a catalytic converter (ceramic honeycomb) in a shiny can, so noticeably different. Use Google Images. Rollguy (above) sells a "test pipe" to replace it. Many also remove the EGR valve, using Rollguy's $15 block-off plates. You can also remove the EGR controls, which decreases ~1/2 of your vacuum stuff. Unlikely it works correctly today anyway, and you can't buy new parts.

Most used cars were poorly maintained, which is why owners give up on them. I don't know that one can sell a M-B diesel to CA for $1000 since you must flunk an emissions test and diesels aren't tested. I see that offer on the DMV emissions form for my 1996 Voyager. Indeed, they will pay $1500 if "low-income", which is actually fairly high (~$60K for a family). Some day I will sell them my Voyager.

ImBroke · #17 08-23-2018, 12:11 PM

Congrats.. These are great cars once sorted. I think the key is to stay on top of the maintenance, and fix it when it breaks. Otherwise, you end up with a ton of things on your plate, and have to decide what to fix first.

79-240d · #18 08-23-2018, 09:27 PM

Was this the blue one with a purplish, slightly bubbling tint job?

If so, I went and looked at it around a month or so ago. I was in the market for a daily driver, not a project, so I was a bit irritated to show up and find that the car wouldn't even start. It also looked a LOT better in the pictures than it appeared in person.

But it sounds like the perfect car as a project car. Low miles and in relatively decent shape, just needs a lot of the nagging cosmetic stuff fixed. Good luck with it!

ykobayashi · #19 08-24-2018, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79-240d

Was this the blue one with a purplish, slightly bubbling tint job?

If so, I went and looked at it around a month or so ago. I was in the market for a daily driver, not a project, so I was a bit irritated to show up and find that the car wouldn't even start. It also looked a LOT better in the pictures than it appeared in person.

But it sounds like the perfect car as a project car. Low miles and in relatively decent shape, just needs a lot of the nagging cosmetic stuff fixed. Good luck with it!

That’s it!

It looked way better in the pictures than it did in person. The dead battery is still a mystery. I think it has a short someplace...like in the cheap diy stereo install. The P.O. said it was an alternator but it charges fine. More things to chase but I’m pretty good at electrical stuff.

So the state of CA has a buyback program for old cars. I received many letters in the mail offering to buy back my 82 240d. I’m foggy but it had to do with CARB. They knew I had a diesel and it didn’t have to fail. When it’s evaporator broke and it started using a quart of oil every two weeks I took the offer. $1000. I had to fill out some forms and the car had to make it to the collection place (a junkyard) under its own power. The yard owner basically made me drive 100’. This was back in 2013. I had to go to the dmv and get a report showing continuous registration for a few years...cannot remember if it was 2 or 3. They basically buy and crush old diesels.

In retrospect I should have kept the car to 4spd convert my SD but my wife cannot drive a stick. The car had a lot of good parts. But at the time I was preparing for a relocation and I couldn’t bring two cars. So off she went.

So now I have this 300D with the odd turbo. Oh well, I’ll get it sorted out. When I get it into shape I’ll drive it into my local dealership and ask about the recall.

ROLLGUY · #20 08-24-2018, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ykobayashi

....................................
So now I have this 300D with the odd turbo. Oh well, I’ll get it sorted out. When I get it into shape I’ll drive it into my local dealership and ask about the recall.

You don't have to drive it there, just bring the VIN (or call) the service department. If it has already been done, you won't waste a trip to the Stealership with the car. If it has not been done, you will have to make an appointment anyway.

vwnate1 · #21 08-24-2018, 08:21 AM

Food for thought : .

Find a 1979 W116 300SD junker buy it and swap out the non EGR manifolds, air filter canister and so on, it''s not terribly difficult and you'll fix the weepy turbo oil drain tube seals easily at the same time.....

ROLLGUY · #22 08-24-2018, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Food for thought : .

Find a 1979 W116 300SD junker buy it and swap out the non EGR manifolds, air filter canister and so on, it''s not terribly difficult and you'll fix the weepy turbo oil drain tube seals easily at the same time.....

There are two potential problems with this that I see. (1)- a non-EGR W116 ('78-'79) is nearly impossible to find anymore, and (2)- there is no oil separator drain in the oil pan. This forces one to make/buy an external oil separator, or vent the crankcase vapors back into the turbo inlet. If one is able to find the parts, and willing to deal with the crankcase vapors, then this may be the best option. Otherwise, the bypass pipe is the better option IMO. Also, if a non-EGR setup is found, the manifolds AND turbo are needed. The drain tube is different as well.

vwnate1 · #23 08-25-2018, 09:57 AM

Good points all Rich .

79-240d · #24 08-27-2018, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ykobayashi

That’s it!

It looked way better in the pictures than it did in person. The dead battery is still a mystery. I think it has a short someplace...like in the cheap diy stereo install. The P.O. said it was an alternator but it charges fine. More things to chase but I’m pretty good at electrical stuff.

Nice! Good luck with it - keep us updated with pics, etc. as you progress with the restoration.

ykobayashi · #25 09-03-2018, 12:45 AM

So I rode the Metrolink up to LA to fetch my car. Wow, talk about how to feel grateful about what I have. Central LA backyards are really sad in the wasteland south of Los Angeles.

Anyhow, the car. As I was pulling it out the diesel return hoses on the injectors started leaking again. I had cut off the ragged ends and reinstalled them but I really needed new hose. Unfortunately I forgot to bring my supply of diesel resistant vacuum hose. I recall seeing somebody on this forum using yellow tygon tube from weed whackers to plumb the injector returns. I popped into an OSH (as it was closing for good) and there was one pack of the yellow weed whacker fuel hose on the shelf. Getting real diesel vacuum line is hard on a Sunday night. So this did the trick.

A burger from Tommy's and I was on my way. The car ran quite well. The first thing I noticed is the 85 300D Cali Turbo is indeed geared differently than my 1982 300SD. It doesn't have the same punch as my 82 SD. Not sure if I need more tuning or if it is just the tall gearing. What I did notice is boy oh boy does it cruise smoothly in high gear.

When I exited the freeway in Lake Forest the car acted like its torque converter was dragging a bit. The engine really rocked when I waited at an intersection. Oddly, it mellowed out and got smooth after a block of stop and go driving. I went in for some diesel and by the time I restarted and took off the car was idling like a swiss watch again. Odd. I'm hoping it isn't a big deal. It seemed to do it less after I adjusted the rack damper. So perhaps it has nothing to do with the TC...but I can stop the rocking by putting it into neutral.

I got some odd clanking and knocking when I went up my 15% grade to my home at WOT. Perhaps I need to pull my injectors and check their spray patterns and pop pressures. Or again maybe something more serious.

The electricals of the car are crazy. This car has been monkeyed with. Tach doesn't work...but the clock works. Instrument lights dark. Radio puts on all these graphics in the display but shuts down when I hit the "on" button. I think I have some electrical debug work to do. No biggie it'll be fun.

Rubber trim is falling off the bumpers. Car smells funny. Black widows guarding the underside of the car.

I aired the tires and they were new. The valves were bright and brassy. Looks like the PO put tires on very recently. Even the best plans get messed up.

I guess my plan of attack will be to make sure the mechanicals are solid before I start going crazy ordering parts from Pelican. Fun stuff.

Edit - oh yeah I looked under the turbo and I saw the silver looking catalytic converter. It looks like the replacement unit. There was some paperwork in the glovebox from car fax saying there were no recalls as of 2007 so my guess is that it got taken care of.

ROLLGUY · #26 09-03-2018, 01:13 AM

Well now the fun begins. And yes, the '85's cruise really smooth. My bro has one, and it definitely feels different at freeway speeds, than the earlier cars.

One of my next projects (among many), is to make an adapter to use a different (AKA-less expensive) filter element in the stock can. I have several cone style filters, but I don't think they have enough surface area. I am looking at a Ford (Ranger?) filter that should fit nicely in the can, and should flow more air than those little cone filters.

Keep us updated on your progress, and of course, please post photos! Thanks, Rich

BillGrissom · #27 09-03-2018, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

... use a different (AKA-less expensive) filter element in the stock can. I have several cone style filters, but I don't think they have enough surface area. I am looking at a Ford (Ranger?) filter that should fit nicely in the can, and should flow more air than those little cone filters.

I stack 2 Wix 46070 ($5 ea). I add foam weatherstrip on top to keep them tight, which you may not need for some manufacturers. I anyone finds a single filter solution, please post PN's. I downloaded a Wix chart to pick what "should work". The top filter gets much gunkier in the 1985 CA, from the oil in the blow-by. I usually change it every 20K miles and change the bottom one every 40K.

My notes below:

85 CA 300D air filter is 8.5" OD x 4.25" ID x 7" H

Stack two:
Wix 46070, 7.031" OD x 4.28" ID x 3.550" H, $6.07 (Toyota MR2, 85-86, Cressida 80)
Fram CA4282, $7.80
Beck-Arily 042-1350

or

Wix 46218, 8" OD x 6.3" ID x 4.093" H, $13.87 rock (no applications listed), $11.69 at www.fleetfilter.com (used in air compressors)
plus
Wix 42011, 8.3"OD x 6.47" ID x 3" H, Dart slant six 60-76, $4.54 rock
or Fram CA146, $2.79
or K&N E1000, $32.

ROLLGUY · #28 09-03-2018, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

I stack 2 Wix 46070 ($5 ea). I add foam weatherstrip on top to keep them tight, which you may not need for some manufacturers. I anyone finds a single filter solution, please post PN's. I downloaded a Wix chart to pick what "should work". The top filter gets much gunkier in the 1985 CA, from the oil in the blow-by. I usually change it every 20K miles and change the bottom one every 40K.

My notes below:

85 CA 300D air filter is 8.5" OD x 4.25" ID x 7" H

Stack two:
Wix 46070, 7.031" OD x 4.28" ID x 3.550" H, $6.07 (Toyota MR2, 85-86, Cressida 80)
Fram CA4282, $7.80
Beck-Arily 042-1350

or

Wix 46218, 8" OD x 6.3" ID x 4.093" H, $13.87 rock (no applications listed), $11.69 at www.fleetfilter.com (used in air compressors)
plus
Wix 42011, 8.3"OD x 6.47" ID x 3" H, Dart slant six 60-76, $4.54 rock
or Fram CA146, $2.79
or K&N E1000, $32.

I might try this on my bro's '85 before making an adapter. It does seem easier. Every once in a while NAPA has a filter sale. They are super cheap then, and I stock up. Thanks for the numbers!

vwnate1 · #29 09-03-2018, 11:11 PM

You might try looking in the Baldwin catalog, I used to occasionally match up oddball air filters by size there....

ykobayashi · #30 09-04-2018, 01:03 PM

After putting a new plastic key head on my extra steel key I decided it was time to fix the silly ignition lock. I pulled it out and it was a cheap replacement Febi with the brass key. Amazing how many disk tumblers MB used in this thing. There were like eight or ten as opposed to five or six in a domestic car. Anyhow I mix and matched the tumblers till they matched the steel key and touched up the taller guys with a file.

Voila! One key for all the locks. Or so I think, the door locks are also broken but this key works the trunk and ignition now. I'll have the door locks on the bench tonight.

A beautiful sight. Key turns smoothly. All umpteen tumblers are in.

Car washed up with the power washer doesn't look so bad. removed the ugly tint off the side windows. I'll steam off the back window today. Now to go after my low power issue.