Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 04-16-2018, 04:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 276
Is the issue possibly that the bolt hole is not lined up correctly? I had success by having the other motor mount a little loose, jack it up slightly and use a prybar to line it up better. Common issue when changing lining up the bottom bolt. I think the threads should be decent if the bolt came out okay.

__________________
1983 300 Turbo-"Nora"
1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love
1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...ly15/mbsig.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-16-2018, 08:02 PM
Fueled by coffee
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 472
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
If you think the threads are toasted, make a thread chaser from an old bolt and clean them.

As for alignment, get creative with ratchet straps and wood blocks. You can line it up, it just takes patience.
I don't think they're toasted. I'm going to see if I can get it aligned better first before doing anything else.


Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
There are professionally designed and executed Thread Chasers...
HOME MADE ones are likely to make the situation worse...

AND as to pulling and forcing the engine into a POSITION which allows the bolts to be screwed into the WRONG engine mount..

I suggest that may invalidate the proper function of our engine mounts....
I doubt I'd be forcing too much. I may have goofed by unbolting both side mounts and the rear t-bar mount all at the same time. I'll get it lined up.



Quote:
Originally Posted by brownrice78 View Post
Is the issue possibly that the bolt hole is not lined up correctly? I had success by having the other motor mount a little loose, jack it up slightly and use a prybar to line it up better. Common issue when changing lining up the bottom bolt. I think the threads should be decent if the bolt came out okay.
I think the alignment is just off. I'll play with it before doing anything else.





If I can't get it lined up properly, I'm going to unbolt the engine support arm and inspect the threads with the arm out of the car rather than struggling from below.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-21-2018, 10:27 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,061
Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
There are professionally designed and executed Thread Chasers...
HOME MADE ones are likely to make the situation worse...

AND as to pulling and forcing the engine into a POSITION which allows the bolts to be screwed into the WRONG engine mount..

I suggest that may invalidate the proper function of our engine mounts....
I took your advice and purchased this metric thread chaser kit from Lang tools. It says to place a drop of oil on the thread chaser before use.

Concerning the 6mm allen bolts on the top of the motor mounts, will a 6mm allen head 3/8" drive bit work?
Attached Thumbnails
Passenger side motor mount threads slightly off center....need assistance please!-metric-thread-chaser-kit-005.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 05-06-2018, 11:27 PM
Fueled by coffee
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 472
I finally got my car back together today. I lost a weekend to being sick, and a couple other weekends to needier cars in the fleet.

It turns out the threads inside my passenger side mount arm were a bit messed up. I was surprised, as I had no oddness removing the old bolt. I took the engine mount arm off the engine to inspect and fix. Once it was off and I saw the new bolt was binding, I ran a thread chaser (home made) through it (VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY) and that did the trick. I put the arm back on the engine, lowered the engine, and was able to bolt everything back together easily.

Very happy to be done with the job.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 05-07-2018, 09:36 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,893
If it was easy anyone could do it.
__________________
84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 05-07-2018, 12:18 PM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,544
Glad to hear you got it figured out!

Chasing threads on old corroded bits makes a world of a difference. If you're short on coin you can always grind a notch in a bolt to make a thread chaser.
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-08-2018, 11:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,136
Thanks for finishing the story, and great you resolved the problem. Sounds like the "last guy" buggered up the threads. That might have been a "professional". Such a guy at a Goodyear once spun one of my wheel studs and put the wheel on like that. I only found out when trying to remove the wheel on the freeway and the stud kept spinning. Fool didn't know old Mopars had LH threads on driver's side (as did many cars), so must have just kept turning up the impact wrench. OK to screw up, but don't hide your mistakes.
__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 05-08-2018, 11:28 PM
Fueled by coffee
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 472
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
Glad to hear you got it figured out!

Chasing threads on old corroded bits makes a world of a difference. If you're short on coin you can always grind a notch in a bolt to make a thread chaser.
I actually cut three notches into the old bolt, and then worked it in and back out with grease (cleaning and reapplying often), a little bit at a time over a very long time until the threads were A-OK again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Thanks for finishing the story, and great you resolved the problem. Sounds like the "last guy" buggered up the threads. That might have been a "professional". Such a guy at a Goodyear once spun one of my wheel studs and put the wheel on like that. I only found out when trying to remove the wheel on the freeway and the stud kept spinning. Fool didn't know old Mopars had LH threads on driver's side (as did many cars), so must have just kept turning up the impact wrench. OK to screw up, but don't hide your mistakes.
Well, this is HuskyMan's thread, not mine. I'm not sure he's gotten his car back together yet. I just happened upon this thread where we were both having the same problem at the same time.

I'm not sure the motor mounts had ever been done before on my car, so I'm not sure someone else actually messed it up. I'm just glad it's all back together and fixed.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 05-09-2018, 05:48 PM
#TRUMP2020
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 789
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
I easily sourced grade 12.9 M10 1.5X40 for the motor mounts. This chart shows an even higher grade, A-2. There wasn't one specialty fastener supplier in town that had them.....I'm thinking an aircraft/spacecraft parts house????

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx
Can you recommend a good spacecraft parts store? lol. I'm imaging a phone call like this:

Uh yeah hi, do you guys have any hubcaps for an '83 Space Shuttle Discovery? No? Hmmm... Ok, how about an upper stage booster rocket for a '89 USAF Titan IV heavy? I'm having trouble setting the interplanetary trajectory on a satellite payload while in low earth orbit. What, you need the VIN number? Umm, I'm gonna have to check with mission control and call you back. How late are you open today?
__________________
1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 05-09-2018, 07:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 300
I replaced the mounts in the 83 one at a time, and ended up loosening the first one a bit while I levered the engine around a bit to get the 2nd mount lined up. Bolts went in no issue. I alternated on the mounts tightening up a bit at a time.
__________________
95 E300D working out the kinks
77 300D, 227k, station car
83 300CD 370k, gone away
89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more
79 VW FI Bus- 145k miles, summer driver
59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k miles
12 VW Jetta- 160k miles
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 05-09-2018, 09:57 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,061
I have to reverse the rubber washers on the engine shocks then this job will be finished. I'm in the process of sourcing new diesel injectors but am having a bit of trouble determining if the sellers offer the Bosch 261 nozzles.

I also need to set the IP timing and mess around with the ALDA so the engine won't be going through motor mounts like politicians spend money......

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page