There are several plastic fuel lines on a 617. For example from the primer pump to the fuel filter housing. Some of those lines are starting to weep. What's the fix?

A source for replacement lines isn't obvious.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

If it's just plastic, you should be able to get replacements at Home Depot or Lowes. I'm not sure why you couldn't replace them with rubber.

Dkr.

Cut them off at the nipples leaving the plastic on the nipple itself, and install 5/16" hose onto that.

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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

People have done as NZScott said and others like myself removed the Plastic entirely and replace it with Hose. But, I thought others said to use 3/8 hose when you leave the plastic on the nipple.

However, descriptions are in the repair links.

The Trick is to heat the plastic with butane lighter just enough to soften it and they grab the unheated portion of the line and yank the plastic tube off.
Also remember if you heat the plastic tube the banjo also gets hot. you can use a pliers with tape on the jaws to hold the banjo part.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Not all plastic or plastic looking lines can hold up with warm diesel fuel inside of them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

So why not just replace it with rubber fuel lines? Is there something I am missing?

Dkr.

I have sussessfully replaced it with Clear pvc hose from Home Depot. Works fine.

You can also get replacement lines ordered from the dealer...

But yeah, rubber fuel line works well too, but ya can’t see through it to check for bubbles etc...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

That's what I was thinking.

I didn't want to have to make standard hose fit and and search for proper clamps if it was easy to find a suitable plastic hose that would simply push on and not leak.

I remember years ago dealing with a gravity feed water system in rural TN. Poly butyl pipe ran along the ground to the holding tank and was used to plump the house. That stuff always leaked. The joint where the male connector was forced into the pipe weakened the pipe wall and it eventually leaked. The leak would either make a mess &/or allow air into the system which would require priming the pump and bleeding the air - pretty inconvenient especially in the winter.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Someplace in the Repair Links are examples of what others have used.
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

Might be some info here: Source of tygothane plastic line
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2579258#post2579258

The problem with the hard plastic line is that it is difficult to push the banjo end into the line.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

the plastic lines are 8X1mm PA12 nylon you can cut the old ones off the barbs and re-do them with new line and pinch clamps. i ordered 10 feet of PFA teflon 8X1 line and a pack of 5/16 to 3/8 pich clamps from Mcmaster to do mine. the PFA line is resistant to all fuels and chemicals and will never degrade. https://www.mcmaster.com/#52545k42/=1bdkibs https://www.mcmaster.com/#5733k76/=1bdkimi

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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P

Try shrinkwrap . Its a plastic tube you heat up ,,and it contracts on to existing fuel line.Only thing is feeding it on first before heating it up with hairdryer ..

Try it on your car and tell us how well it works. I'm sure you'll be back within the day.

Seriously though, bad idea. Shrink tubing softens with heat, even the heat that's available in the engine bay.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

5/16" Gates Barricade fuel line and hose clamps, has lasted the last 40k or whatever miles I've put on my swap with no issues.

Are you current hoses clear enough to see air through? Of course not.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Not to mention what happens to shrink tubing when it gets exposed to Oil or Diesel Fuel.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The way to fix them is replace them. Just go to home depot and get some rubber hose is your best bet.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k