So - I replaced my shift bushings on the shift rods only to find out my shifting still has an oddball quirk to it that I want to track down, and I could use your help, please!

As I understand it, there are three bushings within the 4-speed manual shifter assembly that commonly fail:

115-267-06-76: rectangular-ish washer (30)
115-267-22-50: dampening bushing (13)
115-267-07-50: tophat bushing (23)

See photo for blow up and part/diagram numbers.



I am having an issue where sometimes it is difficult to get the car into first gear from neutral - and by difficult, I mean that it feels as if I have to get the shifter in just the right way to get it smoothly into first - if it doesn’t just fall right into first, it feels as if I’m caught on an “edge” of something and I can give it a little push and it’ll be in first no problem. I have a picture here to try to describe what I’m feeling:
Sometimes it just slides right into first fully and it’s smooth as butter, but other times I kind of push it through the second half before beginning to give it gas and begin releasing the clutch. Rather than pushing it through, I can also just go back to neutral, give it a little right/left play, then try to re-engage first gear and often it’ll slide right into first smoothly if I’m patient.

Also, when shifting to second gear, sometimes I can sort of feel the gears moving just as I drop it into second - like I can feel it catch maybe? Never any grinding or “pushing in through like in first gear, but it’s as if I can feel it catch, which is strange to me.

Third and fourth and reverse are just fine.

I don’t have slop in the shifter, it has very good spring action to the right from 2 to 3, the reverse pull up spring is fine, but it’s just that weird almost narrowing feeling first gear engagement and then the slight momentary gear grabbing sensation shifting into second. It kinda had me think that part 30 (the rectangle-ish washer that I believe is the safety to keep you from getting reverse when downshifting over to 1-2) washer was blown up, but I’m not sure.

I jumped to thinking the shifter assembly needed to be removed, cleaned, and re-bushed, but I’m not getting other warning signs that this is needed. Maybe my shift rods need adjusting? Worn synchros? Maybe I’m just not driving the car that well with my footwork?!

Lastly, if anyone is even remotely near Cincinnati and would be kind enough to potentially wrench with me sometime, I’d love to learn more and get the benefit of some time honored W123 wisdom! I’d be happy to provide lunch/dinner/beers and a six pack for the road!




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FYI, these were the most helpful threads I’ve found on the issue of rebuilding the shifter assembly:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/g-class/2236810-photo-diy-manual-transmission-floor-shifter.html

1983 240D Shifter repair

Manual transmission 240D Shifter Assembly rebuild?


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I know prior owner replaced the clutch slave, so I’m following the recent 240D clutch engagement thread - went ahead and ordered the three bushings for the floor shifter from local dealer (cheaper than peach, FYI).

Any advice or input from anyone?? I’m not thrilled about the prospect of pulling apart the shifter because I just can’t determine if the issue is there. I replaced the bushings and clips on the shift rods already, which was necessary, but didn’t fix the issue....thanks in advance for any help!


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BUMP

Got the bushings this week and reaallyyyy would like to NOT have to do this if anyone can come up with some other idea.....please!!


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If I were you, I would isolate the issue to being that particular "gate" by swapping shift rods over. Eg. make the 1/2 gate now 3/4 and vice versa.

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

I thought the shift rods were particular to each gate? Am I just wrong? So you’re saying just switch my 1/2 shift rod with 3/4 shift rod? I may be able to source a new 1/2 shift rod locally - I’ll check, thanks for the advice!!


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I like your drawing! I apologize for not reading the whole post(s). I suspect the bushing in the shifter itself.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Get under the car and see if there's any free play in the 1-2 lever on the transmission. You should feel that it's definately connected to the internals all the way. If it feels loose, It's a 7 or 8mm allen key to tighten it up and don't pull it out because it's hard to get back in.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Did you put the alignment pin in the shifter and adjust the length of all the shift rods and then remove the pin? Oil fresh, full and clean in the trans?
Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Yyyeessss, the gurus have arrived to save this novice from his own inexperience!! Thank you all!!! I’ll check everything you all mentioned, but I can say I took the car to a great Benz indy and they replaced trans fluid this winter and said it looked great.


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When I meant swap the rods over, I just meant to check the issue was at the shifter and not in the synchro or whatever. But as stated above even just disconnecting the 1/2 rod and moving the lever from underneath might tell you that.

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

Got it, thanks!


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Update: got the shifter out, pics to follow. Note you can slide the flat part of the in between plastic armrest thing (where the fader and hazard switch are) backwards towards the rear wheels and then pull each side inward and two little clips will come undone and it will raise up half an inch. To get all the way off, there is one last sort of pole like retainer that can be pinched and pulled backwards - it is in the middle of that plastic deck right on the back just above where the change tray begins.

Once that’s off, four 10mm screws gets the shifter out - assuming you removed the three shift rod retaining clips under the car first.

Notice my big tophat bushing is toast - it looked fine at first and I thought damn, did this for nothing! Then it fell right out onto the ground....


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Annddd I’m stuck. Any ideas of how to get this bolt/washer thing undone? The directions I’m working off of are posted below too, and they mention a “circlip,” but you can see his shifter is ever so slightly different - the idea is definitely the same and it looks like some kinda lock washer under this other washer but I need to get this bolt out and can’t see how - please help!


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Got it, moving on....


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