Very interesting article about oil related problems-OM642 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 12-10-2017, 07:47 PM

Long read, but very informative
Mercedes-Benz & Sprinter BlueTec Diesel Issues/Problems | Stephens Service Center - Sacramento's Best Mercedes-Benz Service & Repairs

Marshall Welch · #2 12-10-2017, 08:28 PM

Wow. Thanks for posting it. Of course, it's his opinion only.

ROLLGUY · #3 12-11-2017, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marshall Welch

Wow. Thanks for posting it. Of course, it's his opinion only.

Opinion-yes, but I am wondering how much of it is fact? The guy seems to know a lot about oil, as well as the workings of the Bluetec. Without doing a lot of homework, I am not ready to put expensive motorcycle oil in my OM642. However, should the time come that I do find out that the things the guy says are true, then my OM642 may get treated with a dose of that oil. Until then, I plan to keep the drain intervals to the absolute minimum. I have already had the manifolds off, and I was surprised at the amount of gunk in them after only 73,000 miles. I want to head off any expensive repairs that I can. Oil and air filters are less expensive than swirl flap motors, EGR valves and turbo positioners.....Rich

Grzpdlr · #4 12-11-2017, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Long read, but very informative
Mercedes-Benz & Sprinter BlueTec Diesel Issues/Problems | Stephens Service Center - Sacramento's Best Mercedes-Benz Service & Repairs

Great article, I wonder how much is pertinent to the 2005,2006 non Blutek engines? For instance, what oil change internal are people using? Is a 20/60 motorcycle oil a good idea? I have always done the engine flush prior to oil changes. but do not use a DPF cleaner, is there a good one and is it a good idea?

ESchwab · #5 12-11-2017, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grzpdlr

Great article, I wonder how much is pertinent to the 2005,2006 non Blutek engines? For instance, what oil change internal are people using? Is a 20/60 motorcycle oil a good idea? I have always done the engine flush prior to oil changes. but do not use a DPF cleaner, is there a good one and is it a good idea?

What is the engine flush prior to oil changes that you do?

jcyuhn · #6 12-11-2017, 08:19 AM

There are several lengthy sludged engine discussions over on mbworld. It's universally the ML and GL that have engine failures, not the E-class sedan. The going hypothesis is the engine works that much harder in the larger and heavier vehicles, causing oil breakdown. There are a bunch of forum threads and new ones pop up regularly. Here are a couple of links: https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/449560-2010-ml350-bluetech-engine-siezed.html and https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/585587-another-2010-ml350-bluetec-engine-seized.html. Check out the sludge pictures, there is something significantly wrong going on there! There are more discussions, but you get the idea.

I had a 2008 Bluetec. After using Blackstone for oil analysis I settled on an 8k mile oci. They were not fully comfortable with the oil quality after the standard 10k mile interval. I always used the M1 ESP products. It was 229.51 (0w-40? Can't remember) and then the 229.52 0w-30. Had the usual problems - oil cooler leak, servo motor for the intake flaps, and ball joints - but not any major engine work.

Grzpdlr · #7 12-11-2017, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ESchwab

What is the engine flush prior to oil changes that you do?

https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Medic-MF3-5-Minute-Flush/dp/B000AME4V4

Marshall Welch · #8 12-15-2017, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Opinion-yes, but I am wondering how much of it is fact? The guy seems to know a lot about oil, as well as the workings of the Bluetec......Rich

I agree. Perhaps the smiley in my post above should have been a

.

BillGrissom · #9 12-15-2017, 11:18 AM

A long read. The main interest for me was that the new electronic diesels are very complicated, with many more things to go expensively wrong than my 1985 OM617. The EPA wants people to use a thinner oil for better mileage and less emissions. They don't care if your engine wears out sooner, nor does the manufacturer since that usually happens to the 2nd owner and Mercedes would like the original buyer to purchase the new-tech shiny vehicle in the show-room. So, owners must be pro-active.

I didn't understand the part about revised ECU software flooding more fuel into the cylinders, to accelerate wear. That makes sense for a gas engine, where O/F must be tightly controlled (why modern gas engines last longer), but traditional diesels do not meter the air flow, so O/F varies as the throttle is pressed. But, I don't know about the new diesels which do have throttle plates and perhaps the driver's pedal doesn't directly control the fuel injection rate.

I live in this shop's city (never heard of them before), so would take a new M-B diesel to them for service, since the time to figure them out is a career that few owners have time for. But, a new diesel isn't on my to-do list.

Grzpdlr · #10 12-17-2017, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Long read, but very informative
Mercedes-Benz & Sprinter BlueTec Diesel Issues/Problems | Stephens Service Center - Sacramento's Best Mercedes-Benz Service & Repairs

The scariest take away from the article:
"After 5000 miles of normal driving, the engine oil is half diesel fuel"
If this is indeed the case perhaps 5000 miles is a good change interval and the two bottles of engine purge he recommends is a good idea. My question is how can you be sure to get all of the purge out of the oil cooler or does it drain with the rest of the oil?
Second , is this sludge a problem with the 2005,6 E320's as well as the BluTecs?

jake12tech · #11 12-17-2017, 09:56 PM

I think this is an extremely overthought process with far too many ifs and or buts. Fill up at high quality fuel stations, like ones that trucks fill up at. Stick to a 5000 mile oil change interval, don't be lazy. Use the recommended oil from Benz or at minimum Mobil 1.

I see a lot of Bluetecs come in to work without half of the problems mentioned. It's just usually general maintenance. The neglected cars have issues. Simple enough!
.

EDBSO · #12 12-18-2017, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grzpdlr

Great article, I wonder how much is pertinent to the 2005,2006 non Blutek engines? For instance, what oil change internal are people using?

I do mine just 2,000 to 4,000 short of the Flexible Service System, or FSS recommendation depending on time available.

chsu74 · #13 12-24-2017, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcyuhn

There are several lengthy sludged engine discussions over on mbworld. It's universally the ML and GL that have engine failures, not the E-class sedan. The going hypothesis is the engine works that much harder in the larger and heavier vehicles, causing oil breakdown. There are a bunch of forum threads and new ones pop up regularly. Here are a couple of links: https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/449560-2010-ml350-bluetech-engine-siezed.html and https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/585587-another-2010-ml350-bluetec-engine-seized.html. Check out the sludge pictures, there is something significantly wrong going on there! There are more discussions, but you get the idea.

I had a 2008 Bluetec. After using Blackstone for oil analysis I settled on an 8k mile oci. They were not fully comfortable with the oil quality after the standard 10k mile interval. I always used the M1 ESP products. It was 229.51 (0w-40? Can't remember) and then the 229.52 0w-30. Had the usual problems - oil cooler leak, servo motor for the intake flaps, and ball joints - but not any major engine work.

It is not uncommon for these motors to burn oil between OCIs. Also an oil cooler leak can drain your oil in a few thousand miles. One needs to be diligent about checking oil with the dipstick.

Sprinters use the same motor and you see them with 3-400K miles. The top and bottom end of the motor is robust. It is the ancillary components that gives up which challenges their reliability.

jcyuhn · #14 12-25-2017, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grzpdlr

The scariest take away from the article:
"After 5000 miles of normal driving, the engine oil is half diesel fuel"
If this is indeed the case perhaps 5000 miles is a good change interval and the two bottles of engine purge he recommends is a good idea. My question is how can you be sure to get all of the purge out of the oil cooler or does it drain with the rest of the oil?
Second , is this sludge a problem with the 2005,6 E320's as well as the BluTecs?

I had Blackstone run an oil analysis on my om642. After 10k miles it had 2% fuel dilution. While you don't want it much higher than that, it is an acceptable value. Based on viscosity, we decided to use an 8k mile change interval, but fuel dilution wasn't part of that equation.

ROLLGUY · #15 12-25-2017, 11:23 AM

I am a little gun-shy about these engines, so I am planning on changing it after 5,000 miles. I only go 5k in my other Diesels with dino oil, but it is cheap insurance in my opinion. I do mostly city driving, and I live where it is dusty and windy many days, freezing in winter, and scorching hot in the summer. We all know that those are the hardest operating conditions for an engine.