Can somebody tell me where I can order a replacement retainer for the upper control arm bushings? It's the larger of two large metal discs that secure the two bushings on the torsion bar (with the upper control arm sandwiched between) into place. I had somebody replace the upper control arms a year and a half ago, and the bushings failed already with less than 10,000 miles. At first I thought it was just because he used cheap Meyle parts, so I ordered OEM replacements, but in the process of replacing both myself I noticed the failed side was lacking this larger piece that was still present on the other side, so that's what caused the bushings to fail catastrophically so soon.

If somebody's parting out a vehicle, it's a real easy part to remove and I'm happy to buy it, but I need it shipped fast ASAP. Otherwise, an online source or part number would be most appreciated!

The missing part is obvious in this photo for reference:



https://flic.kr/p/DPHBR7

What year/model are we talking about?

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

1985 300TD.

I found an '83 300D at a junkyard an hour away and went and got the part. Too bad that didn't cut it - I had difficulty both removing and replacing the bolt, because the torsion bar is stripped inside. That's a serious bummer, because it spells almost certain death for the car, as I cannot afford to have that replaced. I can't believe the mechanic I had work on the suspension a year and a half ago was so negligent and didn't even mention the torsion bars (I guess they're also called sway bars) being badly corroded and in need of replacement. I even took him new bushings but he said "those never need replaced" out of laziness. Then didn't put the spacer back on on one side, and it was backwards on the other! Wish I could say that was the only problem resulting from his work but this just adds to a long list. I expressed from the beginning a willingness to pay for any additional parts and work discovered to be needed during his work, yet crap like this was kept hidden from me. Picked up the car after having the injectors and hydraulic suspension serviced, and proceeded to have massive hydraulic fluid leaks and diesel spilling from where the injectors screw into the block. Didn't even test the work before giving it back to me, months later than promised at that. So frustrating.

I hate to shame anybody here, but I'll just say to BE FREAKING CAREFUL who you allow to work on your car. I certainly learned the hard way. :-(

Many here have bought the spring compressor and done their own. There is a replacement available for the ends of the sway bar or a bar can be had from a yard. Bushings and ball joints can be installed at home. I did mine in the gravel.

These cars are too old and in frequently too neglected to pay someone else to work on them. or....perhaps I'm too cheap. We keep one newer car for long family trips and I don't enjoy the new ones nearly as much as my old crap that still needs some work. Still, new suspension makes these cars drive like a Mercedes should.

I admit that we would be continually at risk of having everything broken at once or having to do the repair immediately were it not for the new car which will be replaced before 100,000 mi.

I haven't found a shop willing to do the repairs to my standards so will continue to wrench until I quit.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

They sell weld on replacement ends for the sway bar. I have done it and it worked great.

1983 Mercedes-Benz 300D Base Sedan - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 3

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

The end in the link above is the one I was thinking of. I'd rather source the entire bar used than pay the cost of the repair part and labor to weld. It will be necessary to wrench yourself because of the labor charges to R&R the sway bar. You will be deep enough into the project to fix anything on the front end that needs it.

I don't know whether the 123 is the same as 126 but the 126 FSM leads me to believe that the brake master comes out along with much of the suspension. It will be more time consuming than really hard and you'll know how the front end works when you're through.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I would investigate the possibility of a Helicoil repair if the bar itself is not too far gone.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I'm kind of thinking of doing that. I don't know how to weld but it's probably much cheaper than all the rest to pay to have that done and should get it by for a while. The bars are pretty corroded though and I'd love to just replace them both as well as the bushings. I just lack the competance, time, and/or funding to do that much myself. The whole reason I paid somebody else to rebuild the suspension a year and a half ago was because I had plenty of money to spare on the car then. I don't now. The engine is running quite poorly as well since it overheated this last summer, so I think that it may just be time to let it go. I got a 2005 E320 but really prefer the older diesels in a lot of ways.

Well, after much anxiety and procrastination, I got my problem fixed, wiithout any welding, super cheap. Turns out that the hole for the bolt is much deeper than the length of the factory bolt. A local shop installed some studs to fully utilize the hole depth, and used nuts to secure the retaining washers into place. Got both sides done for less than $50, can't beat that.

Great. That is what I was going to suggest - screw in studs and weld them in, but didn't even need that. The replacement weld-on ends are for those whose anti-sway bar ends broke off. Re welding, I bought the $90 HF flux-wire welder and have fixed many, many things with it. I just learned as I go. Securing a stud in a tapped hole would be a very easy and low-risk task. Just clean everything to shiny metal and watch youtube's.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

You can buy most of the parts to do the front end for ~ $500 from this site. Upper/Lower control arms or bushings depending on availability, guide rod, sway bar bushings, ball joints, tie rods, UCA bolt, camber bolt etc. Spring compressor is on ebay for not much money.

You will also need some fine threaded rod and large washers to pull the bushings in. The project can be done in a day or so depending on how much you know vs what you have to figure out.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.