I'm looking at getting a milwaukee sawzall to use when I do the front end work on the 1984 300DT to cut through the eccentric bolts if they need it. I also need to perform demolition on a gazebo in my back yard; cut up the plywood and 2X4s so it can be hauled off as scrap. Question; would you recommend the 12 amp or 15 amp Milwaukee sawzall for both of these jobs?

When I did this on my 190d, I rented a 15A Sawzall. It was done in ten minutes. A bit of overkill, actually. Make sure you don't damage the chassis mount points.

Are you sure yours are frozen? Maybe you'll be able to drive the bolts out.

I've got a 20 year old 12A Milwaukee sawzall and there's never been a job it couldn't handle. Amperage is not the limiting factor. Unless you're trying to cut down a tree made of Ironwood, I don't think you need to worry too much.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

On an 84 300D I am the only one that I can remember having an issue getting the lower control arm bolt out.
Unexpected trouble removing front Lower Control Arm Bushings.

The sawsall is frequently used on the upper control arm and you cut through the Arm. On a 84 300D you don't want to cut through the lower control arm and it would be easier to use the Nut spltter to remove the Nut if it is rusted on.
With a sawsall you can only cut the blot because the Lower Control Arm is too expensive and in fact too hard to cut with the sawsall and the mounting points on the Frame for the lower control arm are sheetmetal and could easly be damaged with a sawsall.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think my Sawzall is the 10A version? I remember intentionally buying the smaller one as it would run on the generator I had at the time.

Multiple cars dismantled, years of home demo projects and tree pruning later, I have never once wished for more power. I would definitely go with the 12A version.

I also have a Rigid 18v reciprocating saw. Surprisingly capable.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I bought the $20 Hazard Fraught (aka Harbor Freight) sawz-all for this job on my 124 cars, and it is not too fast but it gets the job done.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Constantly suprises me that power seems never to be an issue on my cheapie. It only has a six amp rating and I never remember it being really loaded down in use. Although it seems much better than average harbor freight quality.

Although I have issues with blade lasting quality often enough. .Anyone know of the better brands of blades? Through personal experience.

This thread interested me enough that I will put a clamp meter on the power feed line at the panel the next time I use it. Maybe it pulls more than 6 amps under load.

I actually would recommend the label but it is a private one used in Canada only by Canadian tire. So if the ratings are honest. Twelve amps should be almost beyond any ones average needs. That amperage rating equates to about 3/4 of a horsepower under the older rating system.

I look at power tool amperages just like vacuum cleaner amperages and "horsepower" ratings. Ever see a 4.0 "Peak HP" shop vac? Bad news - on a North-American 120V 15A outlet, you can only run a maximum of ~2HP, and that's pushing it! 12A $400 Dyson? My 3.5A 1980s Eureka from a thrift-store for $5 will clean circles around it and will clean up it's corpse when it finally drops dead in 2-3 years.

The limiting factor in something like a sawzall is the transmission and blade length. If you're using a standard 10" blade, a well-built model with a puny motor (8-10A) will pull it through anything you're going to encounter.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

I'd get a Milwaukee Hackzall https://www.homedepot.com/s/hackzall?NCNI-5

It is so small compared to a corded one which allows you to get in tight spaces. I have the M12 version and it's great. Plenty of power. I have the smallest battery which allows it to get into even tighter spaces, but it won't last a long time, no big deal with 2 batteries.

Make sure to use carbide tipped blades and not the bimetallic for best cutting efficiency.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

that hacksaw looks nice! however, I have this large ugly plywood gazebo that is rotting in my backyard that must go to the dump. It's become an eyesore.

That is why I'm considering the sawzall so that I can cut it up into smaller pieces to be transported in a truck or refuse container. I'm going to need a tall ladder, I'm thinking of getting a little giant ladder to climb up and start cutting.

Question; is it possible to adjust the cutting depth of a sawzall? I have some old rotted soffit on the house I need to remove and don't want to risk cutting into the 2X4" wood joists.

from Northern Tool website, review on 15 amp Milwaukee Sawzall.

"One of the best things about this saw is the ability to go through plywood from a center area without having to drill a hole for the blade first. I have had other orbital blade motion saws, but they still couldn't really puncture their own hole. With this saw, if you lay it as close to flat as you can and start slow as you angle up, it will cut a nice groove and then plunge through. I regularly need to cut access holes, and this saw gets it done fast.
Blade changes are fast and easy. Saw works good with blade reversed when space doesn't allow correct blade usage. This saw has very good positive bite, so the saw tends to pull itself against what you are cutting. This means less jump back and less bent blades.
I've used a lot of sawzalls over the years, and this one is the best I've ever had."

Some have an adjustable piece that is like the foot on a sewing machine that lets you adjust cut depth.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

To limit depth, I just hold the saw farther from the area being cut, only use the tip of the blade. I think mine has the adjustable foot but I've never used it. You could also use a shorter blade.

I've had good service from Lennox blades. The cheapo hardware store stuff.........well, you get what you pay for there. For taking apart your gazebo, get demo blades, not just straight wood cutting blades. Demo blades will be built to handle the occasional nail and such, while not clogging with wood particles the way a straight metal cutting blade will.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I have been using them for 30 years...

Ya want stroke depth.

Bigger is better for cutting power.

Notice the 10 amp has a 3/4” stroke, and the 12 amp has a 1” stroke. It keeps more blade teeth in contact with the material, easier cutting.

The m12 tool has limited uses for me, with only a 1/2” stroke...

I LLIKE the M18 versions.

Lennox makes good blades, I have the diablo blades I’m using now, and they are great.

I’ve cut up a lot of cars... I like a worm drive circle saw with a carbide metal cutting blade for most stuff though.


Of course... the oxy-acetylene torch makes short work of stuff too...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Thanks Vstech, I had no idea there was a difference in length of stroke. (There's a joke in there somewhere............) I would definitely value longer stroke over sheer horsepower, and that'll be a deciding factor if I ever have to replace either of my reciprocating saws.

My Sawzall also lacks the orbital feature, which my Ridgid has. I like having that, and any replacement will have it as well, although a blade with a slight downward slope to it will do most of that.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap