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#1
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W123 300D Brakes
Help!
I had a stuck caliper on the front left. It was making a grinding noise when I applied the brakes as the inner pad was down to nil. I put on a new caliper, new pads, bled it out, etc. Now, I get back in it and I have to put the pedal practically to the floor to get it to stop and it STILL makes the grinding sound. Any ideas?
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85 300D |
#2
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You still have an air bubble. Try bleeding both front brakes.
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#3
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Front rotors are very inexpensive, should do them as a set L+R with the pads. The noise/grinding may just be the new pads being ground down to match the previous gouges in the old rotor. Then bleed.
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#4
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Mxfrank, you were right on it. The OTHER caliper is not letting fluid flow through, so, it's as though it's got air in it. Ordered a new caliper for that side, too. Go ahead and throw fruit at me. I should have known to do them both at once anyway. Trying to save some money... grrrrrr.
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85 300D |
#5
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Quote:
Dkr. |
#6
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Quote:
Grinding can also come from bad wheel bearing. While you are in the Car driving it is often difficult to pinpoint where sound is coming from. What about the rear Brakes?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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OK, update. Got the caliper replaced on both sides... but, the right side is not receiving any fluid. loosened the nuts at the source near the master cylinder and only one of the three is squirting any fluid. Does that mean teh entire master cylinder is gone?
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85 300D |
#8
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Update #2. Replacing the master cylinder seems to have cleared up the no flow of fluid. About to test drive.
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85 300D |
#9
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Replaced master cylinder, bled, drove and Klaus-Jurgen is back on the road! Thanks, all!
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85 300D |
#10
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Good deal. A lot of times we get no follow-up and it is especially important for future posters to see what happened - successful or not. Thanks for the report.
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#11
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Thanks for the follow-ups. I am guessing the old fluid was rusty, which caused the port to plug. Insure the rubber test caps on the reservoir aren't cracked. New ones are cheap at PP. Normal glycol brake fluid can absorb moisture from the atmosphere, so all must be air-tight.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#12
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I believe normal wear of the rubber seals makes fine rubber dust and permeates the fluid. When your brake fluid looks black folks, change it and purge your lines until clear.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#13
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I do have an update. Aince i changed the above parts, my alignment is way off. Ok, thats understandable. But the steering is way loose. I dont even know where to start on that.
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#14
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If you jack up the front end, all the joints are visible and accessible. With the car on jackstands, you can find which ones are loose. Tie rods, drag links and upper ball joints are easy, the guide bars are not bad, the lower ball joints and bushings are not easy.
If the joint is tight and the boot is cracked and torn, it is easier to replace the boot on the LBJ than the LBJ itself. The steering box can be loose too. There are threads on this.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
#15
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Search on how to refurbish front end, replace ball joints, replace lower & upper control arm, replace guide rod mount. There is lots of information but it is scattered. Look in the DIY section (126 & 123) here too.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
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