Talk to me about brake pads - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Maxbumpo · #16 04-17-2017, 03:42 PM

I've put Akebono ceramic pads on all my cars, and highly recommend them. I've done it both ways: new rotors, and old, and had NO issues either way. Follow the recommended bedding procedure included with the instructions, and they are FANTASTIC! They are more expensive, but they produce very little dust at all and I think they perform better than OE pads.

I've also mixed the pads on the axles, with Akebono ceramic front and OEM pads rear, and had no issues then other than brake squeal from the rear. For some reason Akebono pads were not made for my wagon years ago, so I had no choice, but not they are and I need to switch over.

I have had the opposite experience from those who mention that the ceramic pads need to "warm up" before they grab. I find that during the first drive of the day, the brakes actually grab harder on the first stop than subsequent stops.

I recently convinced a colleague to try them on his Nissan at work, and now he's a believer too.

MBeige · #17 04-17-2017, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

At this point in time I'm uninterested in replacing the rotors. They're not warped, not grooved, and in overall very good condition. If ceramic brake pads require rotor replacement that isn't an option.

I've heard/read discussion about organic pads and know enough that they're not really desirable. What about Semi-Metallic? From what I understand from reading they're sort of in between organic and ceramic?

I can live with a "normal" amount of brake dust from "normal" pads, but what this car produces isn't "normal".

Just get the Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, then bed the pads properly, and you're all set.

Of the German pads, if I recall correctly, I think it's Mintex that produces the most amount of dust.

Diseasel300 · #18 04-18-2017, 12:44 AM

Well this job keeps getting more involved... Started looking up brake pads and noticed they have different vendors for the calipers requiring different pads. Really? Pulled the wheels to find out which ones I have, seems I have ATE in the front and Bendix in the rear. Seems to be more or less the "normal" configuration which makes it easy.

The not so great news is that the inboard side of the front right disc is heavily worn - maybe 1/16" deep. I suspect that the pad on that side is loose or otherwise dragging on that side of the disc. Curiously, the wheel seems to spin without dragging on the pad, but clearly there's some abnormal wear. So it looks like the fronts are getting new discs in addition to pads, and while I'm in there - bearings. I don't intend to do that job twice.

I also did some reading on the Akebono pads and it seems they either have a love it or absolutely LOATHE it relationship. The Bimmer guys REALLY seem to hate them. I've read over and over about the anus-clenching first few stops and that really isn't my thing. Hills, deer, blind corners, Sunday drivers - I need my car to stop, thanks.

At this point I'm leaning towards just going with ATE or Mercedes OEM pads and calling it done. The Ceramics seem to cut down on dust, but also seem to cut down on stopping power (some of the stories I've read are very disheartening). I can live with some dust, I just hope new pads and front rotors will take care of the ridiculous amounts of dust I'm currently getting.

tyl604 · #19 04-18-2017, 10:19 AM

Consider dust covers for the front wheels. Are you running bundts?

Diseasel300 · #20 04-18-2017, 11:46 AM

This is a Gen II, so it has the 15 hole flat-faced wheels (pie-pan?). The SL has bundts and it gets nowhere NEAR the amount of dust that this car creates, and it runs the OEM pucks and rotors.

BWhitmore · #21 04-18-2017, 12:29 PM

I have used Kleen Wheels brake dust shields on all my W123 cars (front wheels only) for years to keep the brake dust off my bundt wheels. If you use Kleen Wheels remember they are directional (there are arrow stickers on the shields) to ensure they are fitted properly. I have never had an issue with overheating/brake fade using Kleen Wheels.

Assault · #22 04-18-2017, 11:36 PM

From what I've read; and from past experiences, OEM pads are the way to go and ATE rotors or comparable brand ( I would avoid ATE Brake Master Cylinders they are prone to weak seals in subzero temps)

t walgamuth · #23 04-19-2017, 12:45 AM

In my experience the ceramics offer more braking power than the organic. Also if your rotor is worn more on one side than the other it is a sign the other side of the caliper is hanging up.

Cheers!

ffgb · #24 04-19-2017, 02:13 AM

I replaced my brake pads and rotors and calipers. I used Centric Posi-Quiet brake pads which where ceramic. I can tell you that they were absolutely dustless but I hated the stopping performance. I had to have them warmed up in order for them to provide adequate stopping power, I had to really press on the brake pedal for them to bite. It seemed they had a very narrow operating window. I also noticed that my brakes were always hot! I was driving my MB in the hills around San Francisco and I noticed my brakes were starting to fade and I started to feel my rotors starting to warp a little from the excess heat, sucks! I started researching on brake pad for MB's and I ended up replacing the Centric Posi-quiet pads with Textar yellow box pads, which is an OEM provider for MB. The Textar yellow box pads do make a lot of brake dust because they are a much softer pad material but who cares, I love the performance! The Textar yellow box pads have a wider operating range and my rotors don't run as hot because I do not have any brake fade and no rotor shimmy like I did with the Centric pads driving the same hills in SF at the same speeds. Since the Textar brake pads are softer and are dustier, they will require to be replaced more often than the Centric Ceramic pads but it is easier to replace brake pads than it is replacing rotors on a MB. Hope this helps.

Mxfrank · #25 04-19-2017, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

In my experience the ceramics offer more braking power than the organic. Also if your rotor is worn more on one side than the other it is a sign the other side of the caliper is hanging up.

Cheers!

Absolutely. As stated, I've used Centric Ceramic Posi-Quiets on my cars for many years. I've never had problems with warm up, fade, or premature wear.

vwnate1 · #26 04-19-2017, 01:22 PM

Subscribed

Diseasel300 · #27 04-19-2017, 01:42 PM

So which is it? Do Ceramic pads offer MORE or LESS stopping power? It can't be both. I see far more people (and manufacturers) saying that initial stopping power is LESS than organic or Semi-Metallic pads.

FFGB's anecdote above is the kind of thing I keep reading over, and over, and over again. I'd be seriously pissed if I spent that kind of money for that kind of "performance" and had to redo with new/different pads. I've already decided I am NOT going with ceramic pads. Not willing to gamble if it does or doesn't improve or perform to expectations.

Simpler=Better · #28 04-19-2017, 02:09 PM

#1-Rebuild the calipers, they're sticking internally
#2-replace your rubber hoses, they're dangerous
#3-ceramic pads, new rotors, and bed the pads. Think of it like curing high heat paint-do it once and you're set.

I've got $60 ceramics(front only) on my jeep and it stops like a car.

Maxbumpo · #29 04-19-2017, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ffgb

I replaced my brake pads and rotors and calipers. I used Centric Posi-Quiet brake pads which where ceramic. I can tell you that they were absolutely dustless but I hated the stopping performance. I had to have them warmed up in order for them to provide adequate stopping power, I had to really press on the brake pedal for them to bite.

Did the Centric pads come with bedding-in instructions, and did you follow them?

Maxbumpo · #30 04-19-2017, 02:25 PM

This is becoming similar to an oil thread, only worse because there's no data!

I suspect that those who experience problems with ceramic pads have not followed the bedding-in procedure.