Okay... So this morning, I reversed out of the garage (in gear), got out to close the garage door, get back in, and couldn't get the car into gear. The pedal was completely unresponsive. I'd push it all the way down and it'd get stuck there, but I wouldn't be able to shift into gear/clutch was not engaged. I kill the engine. Pedal just moves up and down with little resistance as though it's not connected to anything.

1.) brake fluid reservoir full, no leakages in the engine or on the ground.
2.) no issues shifting, clutch totally fine up until now.

I feel as though there's a cable or a linkage that's either broken or disconnected, but have no idea where to start.

Help!

okay, I think I found the issue... not sure what this part is called, or whether it needs repair or replacing.

The upper end of the clutch master cylinder pushrod has separated at the eccentric.
Replace pushrod, and perhaps the eccentric & lock bolt also.

Thanks Frank -I'm walking into town now to see if I can source any parts, else it'll be online.

Also, how difficult is it to remove the cylinder? (have not disassembled before)
I imagine replacing the pushrod will involve removing and disassembling the master cylinder,
which, I also imagine will require a post installation bleed?

The pushrod and the eccentric are OEM pieces; might be sourced from a dealer, but most likely from dismantlers, or post a Wanted in this forum.
Both can be replaced without dismounting the M/C.

Awesome -managed to find a new push rod but not so much luck finding the eccentric.
(any additional terms required for a search?)
I'm assuming the new pushrod drops into the cylinder or is further work required?

I would be surprised if the new rod does not fix the problem. Its the rod that is broken right?

Just unbolt the rod and install the new one. it should fit in like a penny in a gum machine....or what is it now a quarter?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Yeah, just popped it out and had a look... definitely the issue.
Frustrating when the operation of your vehicle hinges entirely on a $7 plastic part.
Now I'm stranded... =)

One caveat on pushrods: there are two different lengths, distinguished by the color of the plastic end. Yours appears to be a white one, and you will need the same, not the black one.

In the picture it appears that the eccentric may be trapped inside the damaged plastic end.

Thanks Frank, found that in my research. I'm hoping I'll be able to find something generic in town, otherwise there are plenty on eBay (which will take a week of shipping, unfortunately).

The eccentric is available from the dealer at a pretty reasonable price. I cant remember what I paid. I think it was around 12 dollars. Just fine ,IMO, if you count all the time searching for a used one.
When you go to bleed it, here is the easy method, one person.
Connect a long clear tube to the slave bleeder snugly. Then make a loose loop knot around something like the exhaust pipe. Put the tube end in the canister. Then pump the clutch up and down by hand multiple times. Watch how the brake fluid stays in the loop. Keep the reservoir topped off. Once all air is out, tighten the bleeder with the pedal up hose still tightly on. Make sure no air is in the clear tube between the slave and the loop. Clamp off tube at both ends as to not spill.
The loop serves the purpose of extending the fluid system, so when the pedal is returned to the up position only air free fluid returns into the slave cylinder.
This is much easier than any other method. I usually have it done in less than a half hour alone. That includes jacking the car up and putting it on stands, which is the hardest part. Also use a stable can to catch fluid. I hate spilling brake fluid.
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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

Much appreciated all!