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#1
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Safety of Method for Raising Car
Any comments on safety of my method for raising all four corners of car? Just wanted to benefit from those who have more experience than I of working UNDER cars.
I own a set a ramps, a jack, and a pair of jack stands. So here's what I do: 1. Drive front of car up on ramps. 2. Jack rear of car at differential and set on jack stands at rear jack points. 3. Leave jack in position as back-up for rear. 4. Place wheels with 2x4's toward front as back-up for front. I'm tired of doing transmission service, etc. with only front raised...so I thought I'd do this. Is this perfectly safe? Any suggestions to make it safer? Thanks...and Happy New Year!
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#2
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You don't show the configuration of the front ramps. If you put the front wheels on a sloping surface when you jack up the rear it will want to roll down the ramp. I nearly killed myself doing this with my 52 pontiac ambulance.
I recommend taking the time to put all four corners of the car on jack stands....and using quality jack stands rated for plenty of weight.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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If your ramps have deeply recessed "cups" for the tires to rest in, there's not much issue with the ramps. I would suggest to change your tactic and back the car up the ramps with the rear wheels on the ramps though. Then you can lock the parking brake and transmission and prevent any unwanted rolling/movement.
With your setup as you have it, the front can still roll slightly, even with the 2x4's propped up against it. If you wrestle with something under the car, you can possibly move it enough to fall off the rear jackstands. Not ideal. Speaking from experience....car didn't fall off, but the jackstand shifted. I have no problem using ramps if the rear of the car is still on the ground. But with the rear of the car supported in the air by jackstands.....well.....it's your life/safety on the line...
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Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#4
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Putting rear on ramps makes sense...I'll do that.
In lifting a W210, am I correct to assume that the area between the two encapsulation panels can be used to lift the front? Even so, I'd need to get a block of wood in there because of the diameter of the jack pad surface.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#5
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If you are speaking of the steel crossmember, yes.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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Yes. I think that's where a rubber lift pad is supposed to be but it's missing on mine.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#7
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Quote:
![]() Here's a detailed post on how - Naw.. Im only gonna be under there a minute Stay safe my friend....
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Current Stable
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#8
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Ramps give me the heeby-jeebies. I know of two guys who were killed under cars that were on ramps, both because they were pulling on bolts that were very tight but were sideways to the centerline of the car (think bell housing bolts). Both of these guys had the car on sturdy ramps and the ramps were on concrete shop floors. Ramps can topple sideways more easily than you would think. I refuse to get under any car on ramps.
The cribs that Mach4 posted should be a good solution assuming they're well made. Another option is 4 GOOD ratchet-type jackstands, NOT the 3 legged cheapies (I've folded those up before). Make sure the ratchets are firmly seated before putting any weight on them. The real solution is to simply buy and install a hoist, assuming you own your home. I only have $1700 in mine and that includes shipping (Pace Tools and there are others). Even if you have to install it outdoors due to lack of overhead clearance it's still the best and safest method. Hopefully you will eventually be able to build a shop around it. Dan |
#9
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I prefer the trench method, but I realize that not everyone has the kind of property where they can dig one. It only needs to be a foot deep or so, though.
-Rog |
#10
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Since you're not pulling the wheels, get a couple more ramps to put under the rear wheels (I find it easier to go forward than backward onto ramps). More difficult to upset a car sitting on its wheels than hanging on stands. I've never tried and I don't mean to challenge Dan Stokes' knowledge, but I think having the suspension absorb some force is a good thing.
There's also this that'll more likely go away rather than on you (CG isn't on top of you) - https://www.accessiblesystems.com/et/et.php ![]() Sixto 83 300SD 98 E320 wagon |
#11
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I am a big fan of putting the car way up on 4 six ton jack stands. I don't like using ramps, unless I have to. I have never had a failure with jack stands in over 40 years.
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Von Fairport, NY 1973 Unimog 416 Doka 1980 Unimog 416 Doka 1981 Unimog 416 Doka 1984 Euro 280CE w/diesel conversion 1985 300TD Estate wagon (I really need to stop buying these things!) http://vonsmog.com |
#12
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I don't like ramps, first of all.
As far as where your jack ends up? I set the end of the car I'm working on on jackstands, then I jack the jack up to putting a goodly amount of pressure on the nearest solid part of unibody, with a square of 2"X4" in the jack that interfaces with the unibody. I always have the jack engaged on the quadrant of the underside I am working on. |
#13
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I use ramps sometimes. But I always put tire blocks on the two wheels that bare still on the ground. I would be very leery of jacking the other end up while one end is on ramps.
I have a nice floor jack. I lift one end high as jack goes then slip in one set of jack stands. Then either using same jack, or my spare one, jack the other end up and put in a second set of jack stands. Unless they are in the way, leave jacks in place, but with load just off. Jack stands are not expensive - need 4. Jacking points - Under diff for one. Depending on car, central point on strong cross beam near front.
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
#14
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I wouldn't mind getting an extra set of stands. But I'm having a hard time seeing how ramps aren't a very stable solution. Mine are 12,000 lb. Rhino ramps. I always ensure that the tires are centered.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#15
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One thing I wonder about....as these cars age and rust, and the jack points rust in particular, might not ramps be a safer solution? At the very least it seems that I should use 2x4's or something between the stands and the car to distribute the weight.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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