Hello all!

I'm new to this forum and was hoping someone could lead me in the right direction. I have just bought a 1976 300d automatic and managed to get it running. The car was sitting for about a year before I bought it. Runs strong but when I put it in gear it barely has enough power to move 20 feet. I put my foot to the ground but it still doesn't want to move. Any suggestions where to start? I am moderately skilled in using tools and such. I have put the car in reverse and in drive before but the transmission shifter does seem loose.

Thanks for your help everyone!

Replace the fuel filters and do a valve adjustment. See how far that gets you.

Sixto
83 300SD

Drain the fuel, put new fuel in and filters. Check the transmission fluid. If the car doesn't wanna move, I've had the displeasure of discovering bone dry fluid with a trans that didn't wanna move. If it's dry you're gonna burn up the converter trying to move it and drive it with no fluid.

Valve adjustment isn't a bad idea, you need feel gauges though.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

I don't know about the early cars, but could it have something to do with the linkages , especially the one that goes to the transmission? Start by making sure the carpet or mats don't impede the pedal! Then follow accelerator linkages from there. Eventualy over on passenger side rear there are some levers that operate a cable or rod that goes back to transmission. That needs to be connected and properly adjusted.

This thread describes one owners efforts: DO adjust throttle linkage

If engine seems to run well, unlikely a fuel problem.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Also check to see if anything has made a nest in the air cleaner.

If, by "Runs strong", you mean that the engine revs up readily in neutral when you operate the throttle, then by all means look to the transmission, as suggested by jake, below.

Separating engine performance from transmission performance will at the least give you a clearer view of where you need to direct your attention.

Thank you for all of your suggestions, I will get on this as soon as I can and post my results!

Hello everyone!

So I looked at the transmission linkage and everything seemed okay, I checked the transmission fluid again and realized that it had barely any transmission fluid at all, so I went out and bought some fluid and filled it up. Presto! the car stopped slipping! It now goes in both reverse and drive.

Now for the new problem...I took it down the street and gave her all she had, all 10 MPH... So now I'm left stumped trying to figure out why the car won't go beyond 10 miles and hour. Any suggestions?

Is there a cold fluid range on the transmission dipstick?

I still think you should replace the fuel filter/s. Can you rev the engine higher in neutral than in gear?

Sixto
83 300SD

What rpm's are you getting at 10mph?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

In light of the 10MPH performance, are you still of the opinion that it "Runs strong"?
Are you faced with an engine problem, a trans problem, both?

Jack up the wheels and see if the brakes are off. A sticking caliper can keep a car from moving.

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'97 E 300 D

Thanks everyone for all your help, I've managed to track it down to the throttle linkage. The whole thing was loose so once I lubed and tighten it up the car now drive and shifts like a dream!

My next question is what to do next to make this car drive even better! Any kind of preventative maintenance or anything to make the car run better. All input helps! thanks again everyone

Spend a bunch of time just reading the forums, especially the diesel discussion thread. I got my 240D a year ago and although I am quite DIY savvy under the hood, this is my first diesel. I've learned everything I needed to know here, and the car runs and drives like a real champ now.

Take the time to go over the fuel supply system. You want the right pressure in the base of the injection pump. Best way is to get a ten dollar 0-30 pound liquid dampened gauge from harbor freight.


Temporarily plumb it in. Originally when new pressure was probably in the 12 to 14 pound area. Not too likely to still be even there. These cars do better in the 18 to 19 pound pressure area. You can adjust for it.


Read in the archives how to preform a test to prove the lift pump is still strong. If the base pressure in the injection pump is good. It increases power a little and the idle is smoother plus some other things when it is.


Cars run not bad when it is low but better when it is right. All 240ds need all the power you can get out of them.


The throttle linkage problem is so common on the 240ds.I have always wondered if a contributing factor was always pushing the pedal to the floor to get anywhere.


Takes two people with one holding the pedal to the floor and another making sure the injection pump lever is full throw. There are two little rubbers that rot off the linkage universal.


If you see slop in that universal the rubbers are gone. I do not know the years that the 240ds have that setup. Cheapest parts for Mercedes cars the dealers sell I suspect. Hard to get the part number sometimes.