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#61
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#62
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Quote:
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#63
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Thanks Maxbumpo I got the part. It's actually the coolant pipe that goes into the firewall I'm thinking for the heater core?
Yes you are correct - the fuel heater is deleted |
#64
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Priming the motor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmsfKPYCnUo Bad design for priming - may install an electric pump - will definitely will install a hand operated primer pump. Was opting for a priming bulb used often in marine diesel applications. any thoughts/suggestions? Last edited by Wdiesel; 03-14-2018 at 04:11 PM. |
#65
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#66
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Here's my solution to a hand primer pump - I highly suggest this to everyone if you don't have an electric pump or an existing hand primer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBIqAGzWbiU |
#67
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I've heard of people cramming a tiny saab intercooler right by the wheel weld of a W201. The fit is really close to the tire tho and who knows how effective it would be.
You could hack your stock bumper to cram a larger air to air intercooler if needed as well. I wonder if you can use the a.c. to intercool too... You might want to look into an air to water Intercooling system. It's heavier, it's more expensive, but you may not have to hack the car up. Would be cool if you sent your IP out to dieselmeken for larger elements.
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#68
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Quote:
I do plan on sending the pump to deiselmeken eventually - for now I will sort the driveline and all other parts, i figure the pump is really just a bolt on mod as I'll just have to swap it out. I have an air to air intercooler already and may opt for a larger one because I live in socal where 110+ days are not uncommon for more than a few months of the years |
#69
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Got the mounting points for the shifter and hand brake welded in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPPv1doV6Cg |
#70
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dEQABiTfV4
A detail I haven't seen mentioned before regarding glow plugs |
#71
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AmRxrf8f6A
Beginning the interior reinstall. I'll need to cut the wood trim to allow the full range of motion for the shifter. (I didn't shorten the shifter). I'll use the extra space in the trim to mount guages eg boost, egt etc. edited to fix a broken link Last edited by Wdiesel; 03-31-2018 at 01:02 AM. |
#72
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPxmNzRGkpA
Wood trim cut, will refine it a bit and changed my plan on all wood, will use a bit of carbon fiber in the interior. Waiting on parts in the mail |
#73
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCvM5_UoqhU
I meant to capture the first start on video but instead of almost catching and giving me a chance to push record, the engine fired to life. Can't emphasize enough the importance of checking fuel, compression and glow. |
#74
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyFOkrNDy6E
Taking a look at the k20 relay - may delete it and use the wires as a kill switch! Also searching for a front driveshaft that is 'bolt on' with the 716.xxx I remember reading about it working somewhere on a W124, but my memory could be incorrect. Thanks all for the feedback you provide! |
#75
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So I found a driveshaft shop to shorten the front portion:
https://youtu.be/FyVxWR13NOw They are local to me, reasonable and know their stuff! I linked the shop in the vid description, thanks again for all the advising and feedback Last edited by Wdiesel; 04-18-2018 at 09:30 PM. Reason: fixed broken url |
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