I recently replaced my oil cooler lines and the aluminum threads seems to come off on the lower line(on the oil cooler it's the left, I have yellow teflon tape on it). I taped the bad threads and carefully screwed on the new hose.

It seems to work well but there might be a slight leak at the threads. A bigger issues was that it was leaking from another part of the oil cooler. I'm not exactly sure but I was able to remove the 13mm nut at the bottom of the cooler and remove the base of the cooler. I noticed that there are 4 o-rings.

Has anyone ever replaced these o-rings to stop a leak? I figured I'd give it a shot since the replacement of an oil cooler is pricey.

I may also have to use a die on the threads to see if I can get a better bite with the nut that attaches to the cooler. I may have to take it to a machine shop to do the work.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

pete

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First thing I'd suggest is pressure test it under water. Buy another one if it leaks. If no leaks, change the orings and inspect the ball flare ends of the cooler hoses for imperfections. Slights gouges can be sanded out with 240 grit wet dry paper wrapping the ball end and twisting with a back and forth circular motion. Do not put teflon tape on the threads, its only function is to provide clamping force for the ball flare ends.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Thanks. I'll remove the teflon tape.
I did hook an air gun up to one of the ports and put my thumb on the other side and submerged in water but that probably not the best method.

I wish I had a cap I could put on one of the ports. Ideally I'd like to be able to pressure test it like you would pressure test an AC system.


Thanks.

pete

Check out the close ups of the base piece. There's a part number but I can't find anything on the web with this part number. It would be great to be able to buy a new base plate.

I think I will take it to a machine shop and see what they can do to fix the threads.

I looped the oil hoses until I get this cooler working properly.

Look at pics.

pete

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On my 84 300D what I did is I went to the Junk Yard and got a used Oil Cooler Hose and cut the Hose off of it and removed the Collar and Hose from them.

To fix them for pressure testing I threaded the hose ends with pipe 1/4 inch pipe tap. I threaded the Air Hose Coupling in one of them and a Pipe Tap in the other with JB Weld Epoxy on the threads.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Can that whole fitting be replaced?

The Oil Cooler Hoses don't seal on the threads.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's a great idea to pressure test the cooler.

The part number is 123-180-0039 for the flange (bottom piece) but it's not longer available.

The entire oil cooler part number is 123-180-0365 and that is not longer available also.

I just got off the phone with a MB dealer to confirm part numbers. The tech said number on the actual piece is a casting number.

Thanks.

pete

Wow, bad news!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Depending on the amount of meat in the cooler itself, yes.

For the 617 turbo oil cooler (also with aluminum threads) MBZ made a nipple replacement. p/n 915013-013002 It's around $5 from the dealer for each.

Cut off the threads and drill (21/32") and tap for M18 x 1.5mm.


http://peachparts.com/shopforum/members/jdr01-albums-oil-cooler-nipple-rapair.html

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

I did this repair on my 84 300D.

However, I don't know if the threads on the 82 240D Oil Cooler Nipples or Hoses are the same or if there is enought meat on that plate the Nipples are on for him to do that.

A pic of the repair nipples wich on the 82 300D Engine are the same fittings that screw into the bottom front of the Oil Filter Housing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It looks like I need to cut off the threads with a hack saw and drill out the hole and tap it for the new nipple to fit inside. I'd use a drill press to do the work and seal it with jb weld. The 240d did cooler is a bit different than the 300d since both ports are at the bottom.

Does anyone know if the nipple replacement. p/n 915013-013002 is the same part that screws into the oil filter housing to connect the other side of the oil line? I make to be able to go to a local junk yard disconnect the nipple from an oil filter housing if it's the same piece.

Thanks.

pete

Before you cut make sure the repair Nipples have the same threads as your Oil Cooler Hose.

The repair nipples are supposed to seal on a metal crush washer but if the hole does gets drilled at an angle that won't work. As you said with the JB Weld Epoxy it is better just to use that on the threads the repair Nipples that screw into the Oil Cooler and you are done.

I used the JB Weld on mine when I did the Oil Cooler Repair.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Are you saying I can skip the crush washer if I use JB weld?

Thanks

pete

The thread size where the Oil Cooler Hoses screw onto the Repair Nipples is M22x1.5 on a 82 300D Oil Cooler.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

On an 84 300D the fittings at the bottomof the Oil Filter Housing are the same as the Oil Cooler Repair Nipples. However, I do not know if the 240D Oil Cooler and Hoses use that same sized threads. Meaning I have not read of someone doing the repair on your type of Oil Cooler.

It is a pain but If you go to the Junk Yard and get the fittings you can bring them home and try them in your Oil Cooler Hose before you do any cutting snd drilling.

You also need to determing if there is enough meat left on your Oil Cooler for the 18mm threads.

Note that OSH hardwear and likely Sears has the M18x1.5mm Tap (which is actually spark plug size on older cars).
The Tap is not expensive but the reduced shank Drill can be if bought locally.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel