I know there is not alot of late model Diesel enthusiasts here but I thought I would ask..

Anyone know if you can purchase individual components in the AdBlue tank? I have a Fault code of 203D17 (which says Fill Level "AdBlue" short circuit to positive). I think the issue may be in the level sending unit or the sub harness at the tank. In the DAS it gives some resistance levels for the various levels of the tank which I will check as well however I was looking in EPC and only see the tank listed as a unit. I also see in EPC a tank heater repair kit?

Anyone been down this road yet?

The SCR/NOx simulator is looking pretty good as well!!

My experience has been that if it is not broken out in the EPC then it cannot be ordered separately.

I had this happen on the ML. The check valve in the windshield washer line split. It spewed fluid all over the place every time you squirted.

I went to dealer and they said only way to get the check valve is to buy the complete hose harness at $75.

I said no way and got a drip irrigation connector and put it in the line. Only drawback is it now takes about 1.5 seconds for the fluid to start squirting.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

For sensors in general, shorted to positive means the signal line is at max or battery voltage. This can be from a bad sensor or signal wire pinched to sensor supply voltage.

In theory if you put a resistor between the supply and signal you could fake the signal. Even better would be a 3 wire potentiometer, one end to power, other end to ground , wiper to signal. Depending on how sophisticated the system is, it might trip a code if it does not see the signal change after X miles and / or the effects of sloshing.

You could also look at other models / brands for a sensor. Auto makers "make" fewer parts than one would expect, subs pick up the bulk of the heavy lifting. These subs tend to have stock designs that are slightly modified to fit the auto makers needs.

As for the washer check valve, other brands are bound to have this and possibly in the "Help" brand widget section ( Help is a Doorman brand for various widgets. )

In the DAS troubleshooting section the resistance values are given so I thought I would check that out first. There is a small harness that attaches the components to the adblue tank and I want to ohm it out/check the plugs closely.

In looking at the EPC further I think the whole dang tank is sold as a unit..Ughhh..

If this is a 2 wire sensor, there is generally signal and ground so the only way to get battery voltage on the signal line is to pinch a wire.

You really need a wiring diagram to figure this out.