Someone almost put us into the concrete barrier this afternoon - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Adriel · #1 05-11-2016, 10:55 PM

Semester finally over, but work...

So, headed to P.T.. Someone in a 1990s or so Lexus doesn't like how slow going up the on ramp, as passing merges so have to go into the emergency lane, all the while brake checking me. I found that the loose left track rod mount caused the front to brake steer and almost spun out. So glad I took that defensive driving class. But, learned also if the suspension isn't 100 percent, not 100 percent safe. Thought things were alright, but after this experience, know different.

Trouble is don't trust the shop in Phoenix. Anyone have a recommendation? I don't mind driving a half days drive if that's what it takes. To Southern California takes all day, so that's out.

Anyone know approximately what labor cost?

Or, better, someone willing to help? Being that have to work alone and had a Volvo 240 spring got me in the hand (thankfully because stepped out just as letting go), not going to R and R the guide rod mounts without someone there. I'm not the best cook, but sure we can figure something out.

Thank y'all in advance!

vstech · #2 05-11-2016, 11:16 PM

With the RIGHT tools, it's fairly simple 1 day job.

The bushing does not require spring removal... but the mount does.
How are the ball joints and control arm bushings? Also the sway bar bushings... VERY important in a w123

pgringo · #3 05-11-2016, 11:47 PM

Fellow Volvo 200 series owner says y0h!

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

Junkman · #4 05-12-2016, 06:14 AM

The control arm bushings will be in worse shape than they look with the arm installed. The driver side camber adjustment bolt was bad o both of my SDs. It is easy to cut out with a sawzall so buy a spare to have on hand.

Shop rate will be more than the car is worth but parts only ~$600 to do everything. Car will drive like new if you do all. I used a large socket, (fine thread) threaded rod and washers to press the bushings into the LCA because I gave my press away years ago. The socket presses on the lip of the bushing and wood shims or metal washers placed into the socket support the center of the bushing.

Do the brakes, wheel bearings and shocks at the same time if you want to be completely done and driving a car with like new steering.

Adriel · #5 05-13-2016, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

With the RIGHT tools, it's fairly simple 1 day job.

The bushing does not require spring removal... but the mount does.
How are the ball joints and control arm bushings? Also the sway bar bushings... VERY important in a w123

John, thank you so very much for the reply!

Okay then, with me, that means two days, if not a week.

Yes, know the mount. Some folks said no, but tried their trick on the '79 and didn't work.

Upper control arms very recently replaced and the lower done I.I.R.C. about six years ago by the P.O. (though with his memory and lack of records, hard for me to understand all the dates for the vast amount of pre-sale preparation he did). Sway bar bushings also recently done and made a lot of difference, but this is brake steer. Put on the brakes above 40M.P.H. hard and going right. Alignment just done, but not for S.L.S. and did not pass the portion about being level (a rear corner sags).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

The control arm bushings will be in worse shape than they look with the arm installed. The driver side camber adjustment bolt was bad o both of my SDs. It is easy to cut out with a sawzall so buy a spare to have on hand.

Shop rate will be more than the car is worth but parts only ~$600 to do everything. Car will drive like new if you do all. I used a large socket, (fine thread) threaded rod and washers to press the bushings into the LCA because I gave my press away years ago. The socket presses on the lip of the bushing and wood shims or metal washers placed into the socket support the center of the bushing.

Do the brakes, wheel bearings and shocks at the same time if you want to be completely done and driving a car with like new steering.

Junkman, thank you so much for the reply!

How long do lower control arm bushings last? How does one test?

Camber bolt fine, as the bad shop and Firestone adjusted camber. But, do own a reciprocating saw.

I have everything but the lower control arm associated parts and the mounts. Don't recall that much, but then long ago. Don't see the repairs being over $15,000, even $7,500 (what I paid I.I.R.C.).

Dampers were replaced by P.O. and fine. I can safely slalom, it's the brake steer that is the dangerous issue.

vstech · #6 05-13-2016, 03:22 PM

brake steer is a serious issue... be CERTAIN the swaybar ends are attached... critical on the 123/126...

I guess the guide rods worn could impact steering under braking, but IDK... get the car up on stands, and push/pull the wheel and watch what moves...

Maxbumpo · #7 05-13-2016, 03:47 PM

I'm also suspicious about your diagnosis, a brake problem with either front caliper may also be a factor if not most of the problem.

kuene · #8 05-13-2016, 04:54 PM

I had my 300d for about 1 month, and I was experiencing a serious, dangerous pull to the left. I just switched out both front calipers, rotors, hoses, pads - now the pull is gone.

Adriel · #9 05-13-2016, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

brake steer is a serious issue... be CERTAIN the swaybar ends are attached... critical on the 123/126...

I guess the guide rods worn could impact steering under braking, but IDK... get the car up on stands, and push/pull the wheel and watch what moves...

John, thank you so very much for the help!

How is that parts order coming?

How would it be different than the prior tests? Want to do it the way you expect.

I am not talking about the guide rods, but the mounts. The driver's side clicks most of the time driving, and clunks every time braking, especially hard stops. Also rough roads cause clunking.

Getting no real significant temperature reading; about 10 percent warmer on the driver's side. Remember, brake steer is to the right, not the left as you might try to say.

Maxbumpo · #10 05-14-2016, 04:56 PM

Adriel,

Sent you a p.m. with some info on shops in Mesa and Phoenix.

Drive carefully, or have the car towed.