I've been thinking about putting a diesel in a small pickup for a wile and now that I found a cheap Ranger with a blown engine on Craigslist I might just be able to do it. My biggest concern is whether the new engine would fit in the truck with out shifting the transmission back. Also, how much electronic stuff is required to support these old Mercedes engines? Could I get away with using a switch for the glow plugs and another for the fan and call it good or would I have to pull all the electronics out of the Mercedes and put them in the truck?

Thanks for the help.

My first suggestion is for you to read my build thread. Or if you REALLY want details, read the LONG version on BangShift. I've done approximately the swap you're considering but in an S-10. My truck is ONLY used for LAnd Speed Racing so my swap is a bit more involved (in some ways) that a vehicle used for street use might need.

There are really NO electronics involved with an OM617. The stop system requires vacuum which you can generate several ways including the stock pump or you can do it with a simple pull cable. I had a specific need so I have a fairly involved system using compressed air - a safety requirement at the track.

I kept the Bosch alternator and starter (not much choice on the starter) but had both rebuilt at my local shop - so far so good.

The length of the engine will be the main issue. The mounts are dead simple - just a 90* thru bolt on each side. I set the engine angle and welded up part of the S-10 crossmember with part of the Mercedes trans crossmember to make the rear mount. Again, works OK so far. I had to modify my firewall quite a bit but I'm not sure on the Ranger. If you have a measurement from the firewall to the core support of a Ranger I can measure mine and give you a better idea of the available space. I'd run out and measure mine but it's still on the trailer from the last meet and it's raining cats and dogs at the moment.

You'll need to be realistic. You need a facility and metal fabrication tools (cutting, grinding, and welding equipment). To the best of my knowledge there is no kit for this so you'll have to make everything. Find out if the Ranger is set up for a front or rear sump oil pan - the 617 has it's deepest sump in the front and the S-10 has a rear sump so THAT was a stinker! I had to modify my lower oil pan extensively and will probably do another one to see if I can make more steering clearance. LOTS of cutting and fitting but maybe it's an easier fit in a Ranger.

The exhaust is pretty simple - just a pipe out of the engine bay. The first section of the Mercedes pipe will make the exhaust work easier.

Any radiator for a 5.0/Ranger swap should handle the cooling. Diesels are not generally hard to cool.

You should have a local driveshaft shop and they can connect whatever you have out of the trans to whatever you have into the diff. Jags That Run makes an adaptor plate from the M-B trans output flange to a Dana U-joint so that comes in handy if you go with a Mercedes trans.

Anyhow, it's a great project and I wish you luck if you decide to take it on.

Dan

The venerable 617 has been swapped into many different vehicles - Jeep, Toyota pickup, S10, Studebaker Pickup and lots more. I put one in a MB Roadster.

I'd suggest doing a search and reading through the various build threads to see at a detailed level what's involved.

Process-wise it's a simple two-step process

Make it fit - fab the engine/transmission mounts, deal with any chassis clearance issues, make sure everything lines up. Biggest issues here are steering gear and suspension components as they're difficult to change and involve safety and reliability.

Hook it up - go system by system making it work. There are lots of systems and lots of engineering and fabrication for each - fuel, cooling, vacuum, gauges, exhaust, suspension, linkages, glow, shutdown, intake, A/C, electrical, climate, and so forth...

You'll have a choice of transmissions as adapters are available if desired.

The good news is that there are no electronics to deal with. The 617 will be one of the very few engines still running after an EMP event.

You should definitely have facilities, tools, expertise, patience, engineering, money and time in ample supply. It can be done....the question is should it be done and should you be the one to do it. Only you can answer that question.

If you do, start a build thread, detail the process, take lots of pictures and you'll be surprised at the support and help you'll find along the way. Sometimes there are some really simple answers to what seem like intractable problems...and sometimes there are some really intractable problems.

I'd definitely do mine again!

...did I mention take lots of pictures.

Oh, and remember the first rule of swaps - the last 20% of the project takes 80% of the time...and the corollary: the last 20% takes 80% of the money.

I'm going to hazard a guess that your biggest issue is going to be related to the sump position and the length of the engine. You should be able to take some measurements off the engine and go to a junk yard and find a Ranger with a pulled engine and take detailed measurements off the bay/tunnel. You can fab a new sump, but to my knowledge there is no currently known way to move the oil pump, so you're stuck with a front sump configuration.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Great thanks for the info! I started reading your build log Dan, it should be very helpful. I was thinking of using the Ranger's transmission so that the truck would still be 4wd and I wouldn't have to mess with the length of the driveshafts. I have machining experience and my buddy is a machinist so making an adapter shouldn't be to hard. If you guys could tell me the basic dimensions of these diesel engines that'd be awesome. I'll try and get some measurements of how much room there is in the Ranger. I had thought that I was just missing things and that's why this project didn't seem out of my league but after reading about it totally sounds like I could get this done.

I had a pretty good set of dimensions, but those disappeared about 100k miles ago when I finished my swap.

It would be helpful if you filled out your profile - for example, where are you located? If you happened to be close to San Diego, I've got a "junk" engine you could use/have for measurements and mockup - it's essentially complete, but I'd eventually need to keep stuff like IP, turbo, sump, VP, etc. as spares.

You could also use images as a basis. Take a known measurement like valve cover length or damper diameter and take measurements off the computer screen.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I have a spare engine too.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Good idea on using a picture, I'll give that a shot

Would you mind measuring the basic dimensions for me?

I have a spare on a stand, too. If you get down toward Myrtle Beach you're in my neighborhood so you can stop in - PM me if that will work. Do we have anyone in MA with a spare?

I'll see if I can get some measurements.

As far as the Ranger trans - I don't know if there are any commercially-made adaptors for that but there might be. You can try Brentsen's - they make a bunch of oddball adaptors (Google 'em). The 617 is a bit tricky because the 617 uses an intermediate plate between the back of the block and the bellhousing (it's in my thread) so the actual bolt pattern at the rear of the block is a small 4 bolt (IIRC, pretty sure that's right). I had a heck of a time bolting the engine to the stand with that weird rear bolt pattern - and the guys say it's questionable to bolt the engine to a stand from the intermediate plate. BTW - take a look at my newest engine stand adaptor that bolts the engine sideways on the stand - it makes the engine a TON easier to work on.

You asked about the glowplug system in your OP. I'm just running a Ford starter solenoid and a handmade harness - use #12 or bigger wire. I hold the button down for a slow count of 10 and it fires right up. The timer would be fancy but it's NOT necessary. Be sure you get the solenoid rated for continuous duty, like for a snow plow. I got mine at CarQuest and I'm sure other stores might have them. A stock replacement solenoid (like, for a Ford PU) will NOT hold up in that application.

Glad the thread is useful to you. The thread on BangShift is sort of the main one and has details that may be missing from the one on here. Feel welcome to lurk if interested - you won't be the only one!

Dan

I'm happy with my swap into my Toyota. Solid low end power for idling over big rocks in 4 way low, and ability to cruise at 70 on the freeway without straining. A little slow to accelerate but does fine once going. Enough power for towing without being scary. Amazing MPG for a vehicle that will do all this. My build thread is around here somewhere.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

This should give you some encouragement...



1994 Ford Ranger

Just a picture...no build thread, no other details.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I did a similar swap. I put a Cummins 4BT into a 2000 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Crew Cab. The details are here:

4BT into a 00 Dakota 4wd

and here's a youtube video of it starting/idling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeWeJOXowOc

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

My build thread:

My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread

Driving my swap around town:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eggByFXpVNE&feature=youtu.be

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Some questions on the proposed swap and I'll add some info to the Ranger pic above.

What year Ranger did you find?

What engine and trans are in it now?

Have you looked on the web site The Ranger Station or 4BT Swaps?

The Ranger above had the upper portion ( in black ) cut away to place the rad in the support.

Have a look at a 2.3 turbo motor from a T bird, this will give you some sense as to turbo and exhaust clearances ( if the target motor has a turbo )

The Ranger retained some parts through it's entire build from 83 to the end in 12.

Major differences are:

83 to 88 had square glass headlights.

89-90 ( 91 ? ) used plastic headlights / grille from the Explorer

92-97 had rounded fenders , doors that closed into the top of the roof rather than under a rain gutter.

98 - 12 used the 92 doors but the cab and wheelbase grew a few inches in length, front fenders and core support are different than past years.

83 to 97 used twin I beam front suspension with coil springs, you need a lot of room for the front differential to go up and down. Even the 2 WD needs space directly below the oil pan as the beams cross there. 2 and 4 wheel frames are likely interchangeable, I've used a 2 WD radius arm cross member on a 4 without issue.

98 to 12 used a arm front suspension. 2 WD got coil springs , 4 WD for torsion bars, both got rack and pinion steering. The frames are not interchangeable between 2 and 4 WD.

Somewhere in the mid 90's Ranger frames started to rust badly starting with the left rail where the fuel tank is. They also rust off rear spring shackles and frame tails.

There is probably more but that will get you started.

I know the engine is too tall with the stock oil pan to fit under the hood in 80's/early 90's Rangers, there is one running around Ottawa with a custom front grill and hood riser for clearance. I have not been able to witness the job up close, but it is evident from the outside some work had to be done and I met a mechanic who worked on it and verified it was a 617 motor.
You might find adapters for the engine and trans at acme in CA, they offer a lot of different ones.

Dan, thanks for the offer but I won't be driving that far south anytime soon. I'll just pick up a rusty 300d from around here.
Making an adapter shouldn't be a problem because I've got a machinist friend who made an adapter to hook a Ford eco boost engine and a couple of brushless motors to a Corvette transmission and he's going to be helping me make this thing. The bolt pattern was only giving you problems putting the engine on a stand not putting in on the transmission right?

OM617YOTA, that's awesome! That's exactly what I want.

Mach4 are you using the stock transmission?

Daw_two, that's sick! I'm probably going to stick with the Mercedes engine because they're alot eaier to get around here.

97SL320, truck's from 1999 and is 4wd 5spd manual.
I haven't lost looked at either cite much.
I forgot that my friends parents have a 300d turbo so I'll just measure that.

Clacker, cool thats what i was thinking of doing if I can't make the engine fit, I'm glad it works