Anyone have any tips or mods to improve ride quality from the suspension of my w126?

I was spoiled with a w140 for awhile, but now I'm back in a w126. I don't expect w140 ride comfort but any improvement would be awesome.

The car is comfortable but you feel every crack in the pavement.

I have a 420sel with a om603 swapped in, but plan to drop a 606 in.

anyone know what model w126 had the softest springs that I can drop in?

also replacing what components in the suspension give the best bang for your buck comfort-wise?

Any input is appreciated.

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1974 240d
1983 240d -sold
1989 420sel with om606
1994 s350 turbodiesel - sold

Best bang for your buck, ... a nice set of Michelin Primacy tires (or other Michelin touring tires). If you're running cost-savers, you're going to have a tougher ride, especially the jarring high-frequency stuff.

I can empathize, I drove the '93 300SD all winter (on Michelins), you get used to the quiet and smooth ride.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Best mod that I've found is Bilstein HD with entire front end rebuild. My other vehicles are a 78 Datsun Z and an 00 Ram 4x4 with a Cummins. Perhaps comfort is relative.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

The springs in a 126 are pretty soft. If its riding roughly it may need shocks. Also if running tires and wheels significantly heavier than stock.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

thanks for the replies

A few years back I switched from stock rims to 16inch Monoblocks. Didn't make a difference in ride quality.

I have a new set of dunlops, ill try new Michelins when they wear out.

I also have new bilsteins shocks all around.

I would rather avoid a full front end rebuild because the car drives straight doesn't shake or make noise or eats tires. When the car is lifted up, none of the parts have any play when I push on them.

what components in the front would make the most difference? I'm thinking of changing the L-frame bushings and the bushings in the lower control arms.

Would changing the guide rods make a huge difference?

my biggest problem with the ride is cracks in the pavement and sewer manholes.

small cracks and imperfections aren't heard or felt on the road.

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1974 240d
1983 240d -sold
1989 420sel with om606
1994 s350 turbodiesel - sold

New Horsehair pad for the seat

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How is the weight of the monoblocks and your tires compared to the stock? 5# more wheel weight is noticeable....10# would be a lot.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I would start with checking (and possibly replacing) the shocks & coils and refreshing the seat.

Here is a link to suspension section of the FSM for the 300SD: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/chassis_300SD.htm

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Are you running at recommended tire air pressures?

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Before you open your wallet, put the car up on a lift and look at the rubber bushings. One split or severely worn rubber bushing can transmit every low speed thump & thump. Don't forget to look at the coil springs - they have a rubber spacer. If it's split, you'll feel the road banging away.

Tire pressure makes a difference. You may have to experiment. A pressure change of 1-3psi can sometimes make a huge difference.

Stock shock absorbers are designed to absorb normal ride problems - softly. High performance shocks tend to have a stiffer/harsher ride. I've had customers prefer the ride from a new Gabriel or Monroe over a KYB or Bilstein heavy duty/high performance model. Its a matter of personal taste & comfort. Remember - just because the shocks aren't leaking, they can still be worn out internally. Over the last 40+ years I've changed thousands of shocks, most were not leaking, but when you got them off the car you could move the rod in & out without much force. 20,000 - 30,000 miles and they are worn. Even big buck shocks. There is an upper limit to the number of cycles that a shock can sustain before the internal parts wear past their acceptable performance limits.

I have found that the Bilsteins last on the order of 75 to 100K miles. Kybs generally more like 30K miles. I agree about them not leaking not being proof of being a good shock. The gas can leak out and (I believe) there can be wear on the stem so that it dampens big movements but not little ones (like those asphalt strips).

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

W126: Regular Bilstein shocks front. Heavy duty on rear.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert