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#1
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Trans-X???
I have a 1983 300d with automatic transmission. The transmission is slightly slipping 3-4 shift, slight flaring. I have changed the transmission fluid twice, then dropped the pan and replaced the transmission filter and gasket then refilled with new fluid. So the transmission has been flushed and has new fluid 3 times, still, flaring but not as bad as before the fluid changes. I want to use Trans-X because I keep reading reviews that it can clean varnish and swell the seals in the transmission making it feel new again and can actually prolong the life of the transmission. But, there are different kinds/bottles of Trans-X and I want to use the correct one. Does anyone here who has used Trans-X know which one to use????
Thanks!!! |
#2
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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Have you tried tightening the bowden cable?
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#4
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I haven't. When I got my flex disk and center support bearing replaced at a Mercedes Specialist, they did a once over of the whole vehicle and one of the things that was noted was the transmission was slipping a bit. I figured if the bowden cable needed to be tightened, he would of said something???
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#5
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Sometimes you can get shifts to firm up by tightening the cable half a turn or so. It tells the transmission what your throttle position is, and more throttle causes the transmission to shift with less modulation.
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#6
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The Trans-x is relatively cheap, will not do any harm and might do a lot of good... you just changing the fluid will not dissolve varnish deposited over decades. Read the instructions on the can... as it may say twice the percentage for an initial cleanout... and you will need to know the fluid capacity of your trans to do that math... then keeping a lower percentage in it after the cleanout. My wagon required two of the ' quart ' looking size metal cans for the initial treatment..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#7
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There is a drain plug on the Torque Convertor along with the Pan drain.
Incase you didn`t know. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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Hot-rodders have long used Type F fluid for snappier shifts, with less flaring. Some say "F" = "friction", others say "Ford". I used it in my 1965 Chrysler, but also added a "shift kit" for firmer shifts, so hard to say. But, "which tranny fluid?" starts many rants. I suspect Dexron III flares more since many Chrysler V-6 trannys were ruined by shops putting it in, instead of the more expensive ATF+4. BTW, I understand that "friction modifiers" actually decrease friction, but read-up on Wikipedia. It isn't a yes/no answer, since many components act non-linearly, grabbing tighter only as the clutch plates begin to touch.
I wouldn't install anything that claims "stops leaks", since those are usually solvents that attack the rubber to swell it. Might stop a leak now, but degrades the rubber so it doesn't last as long. Friction additives might be good, and avoid having to lose all your existing new fluid. All tranny fluids have a base of oil, so you can change them via additives.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#9
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That reminds me of the kit available for the 722.3 transmission that has a replacement spring for the K1 piston. It's intended to fix flare, but for the 2-3 shift, believe.
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#10
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Quote:
I have never heard anyone claim any problems connected with Trans-x. I have used it for 40 years.... I have told about my experiences with it in the archives.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#11
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A footnote is warranted that the money spent on trans-x and ANOTHER full transmission fluid change could be put toward the purchase of a good used transmission...
If the trans is slipping and has been for a while, a used unit can be had for a few hundred and installed. Just my take on it.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#12
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I do not want to take a chance with a used transmission and pay for it to be installed. I know how to change items like that but I can't at the moment because I have a 4 month at home and the majority of my free time is daddy day care, lol. I am the 3rd owner of my 1983 300d. I bought it with 126,000 miles last year and I only put 2,000 miles since owning it. It is super clean. The only things that I have done to it were brake flush, coolant flush, change the A/T fluid 3 times, recharge the A/C, and get the flex disk and center support bearing R/R and get new tires. The 2nd owner of the vehicle bought the car from a Mercedes dealer back in the day and has kept up with all the maintenance. I figure putting in Trans-X might clear some of the small passages in the transmission allowing the transmission to perform better. I would rather add a little Trans-X everytime with fluid changes if it completely clears the flaring than to changeout the transmission
when it isn't broken yet. If the symptoms don't clear up, then I will look into a new transmission. Quote:
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#13
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That's fine. I just wanted to bring that to your attention. The trans-x and a full fluid change is ~$100 so it was worth mentioning.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#14
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Right, but the K2 spring on the opposite side of the valve body does the same for the 3-4 shift. I would start with that.
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#15
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Quote:
Assume two cans of the Trans-x ..... How much trans fluid does his car require ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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