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#31
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You can carefully grind off the hex part of the plug, and then thread on a nut behind a spacer of some kind. Tighten the nut, and it will pull the plug out.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#32
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Quote:
I finally got the #1 plug out today with the vice grips. I had been hitting it again repeatedly with PB Blaster since last night, which I think helped a little. |
#33
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Quote:
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1995 E300 200k 1981 300GD unknown km |
#34
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Isn't that a similar idea as the split nuts that can be reassembled on the threaded portion, held with a box end wrench, and used as an extension of the threads in the head, using the hex to back the plug out farther? If you have a nut that fits the thread, you should be able to saw it in two and reassemble it on the threaded portion, but you can also buy the split nuts just for solving your problem.
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'97 E 300 D |
#35
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That's an interesting idea. Fortunately in my case I didn't have to use a nut after all. Thinking back over the whole job, I was able to back all of the glow plugs out the first day (while the engine was still somewhat warm) to the point that all threads on the plugs were out of the head. In retrospect I think that if you can get to that point, you may just have the problem licked. The reason I say that is because it's then easier for the penetrating oil to seep past the top of the glow plug and down into the head, softening up the carbon which binds the plug. (I had also used Maxbumpo's tip of removing the injectors and spraying the prechambers from inside.)
I had been hitting those last two stuck plugs a couple times a day with the PBB, and when I went back Sunday afternoon to tackle the last one (#6), I put a wrench on it and was surprised to find that it turned easily, with no cracking or drama. So by using a pair of cutting pliers to grab the notch near the top of the plug and leveraging against the engine, I was able to pull the plug the rest of the way out fairly easily. On reaming the holes for the #1 and #6 plugs, I found the reamer came out covered in black goo, vs. the usual powdery state of the carbon. So I figured that giving the penetrating oil a few days to do its work was very helpful here.
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1995 E300 200k 1981 300GD unknown km |
#36
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Oil Filter Canister
So, I am new here and an amature mechanic; the car; 99 E300 TD
While changing the glow plugs (way overdue) I broke the front one, and the back one was just starting to come loose when the head became rounded off. I believe I have enough info and special tools for the broken one. However, the back one is blocked by the oil filter canister. I MUST remove it in order to get a straight shought at getting it out without breaking it and causing even more trouble. I have already removed a bunch of parts so that I have good access to all the plugs (4 of them are out, reemed, and replaced.) Now I need some help knowing how many bolts hold the canister to the block; I can see two that are on my left (toward the front of the car) but what others may there be. I have not found any good pictures or anything that shows how to remove that demon canister! Help! Please |
#37
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I believe it is just four allen bolts which are visible when viewed from the side .
When you get the replacement gasket make sure you get the two large 'o' rings as well , you fit the gasket and these two o rings go with it. |
#38
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Thanks! I will take a closer look for the other two bolts; plus, order a gasket and the o-rings.
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#39
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I've successfully removed 1-5 but 6 is very stiff.
Plan is to thoroughly warm up with a long drive, then remove inlet manifold, then stard engine and let it idle until it's fully warm again ( I don't understand why people don't realise you can run a diesel without the inlet manifold fitted..), then hopefully wind #6 out past the threads. Now: I could attempt to cut a nut in half and fit it over the threads to extract via the pulling method, HOWEVER: I could cut off the hex section of the GP in situ, then simply slide some washers on, and then thread a full nut directly onto the GP? And remove nut and add washers accordingly as it draws out? Thoughts? Beers, H |
#40
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This gets my vote.....Rich
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#41
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Hell yes, so I got this which should get in around the oil filter housing Irwin Junior/Mini Hacksaw 250mm 10" Restricted Access Hack Saw & Blade | eBay |
#42
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Hario, It's way too late for me to do that; maybe next time!
I changed the glow plugs on my 85 300TD; no problems at all. This 99 E300 is a totally different story! I already have a bunch of things removed; I have a clean straight shot at all but #6. That's why I'm taking the oil canister out. Because I've had to come at it a little off, my socket wrentch rouned off the nut. Once I get a straight line on #6 I should be able to use various other tools to get it out. Nonetheless, I truly appreaciate all the input! |
#43
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This was a MAJOR task!
As Murkybenz said "it is just four allen bolts" that hold the Oil Filter Canister in; however, the two on the right side, facing the firewall, are on visible without a mirror; especially the one on the bottom right! |
#44
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Quote:
The injector seals against a crush washer, which is a single-use item, so you'll need a new crush washer (really a heat shield that protect the tip of the injector from damage by the heat of combustion). You may also want to change the engine oil, if you spray a lot of penetrating oil inside.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#45
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Thanks
Quote:
I Knew glow plugs needed to be changed. Before starting, did a fair amount of research and learned a lot from this thread and this one; https://sites.google.com/site/alanmcreynolds/howtoremovebrokenglowplugs-mercedesom606 I started with number 1 glow plug, not realizing their tendency to seize, I over did it, too much torque, broke. So I proceeded to follow the technique mentioned in the other link. I replaced the middle four glow plug, no problem. So now that I have the oil filter canister removed, I have tried many techniques trying to get a good grip on number 6. Everything I tried has failed; so I started drilling; I am using a smaller bit hoping to get the glow plug out with an easy out. So far that hasn't worked either. So I think I will remove the two injectors and soak the chamber with some liquid wrench type stuff and take it from there. I used to have a slide hammer but can't find it. I may need to buy a new one. However, one of my concerns is that on number one I may have used too large of a drill bit and damaged the threads in the block. |
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