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  #16  
Old 01-15-2016, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
Right answer. There is indeed an internal separator in the reservoir. If the fluid runs low while you're pumping out the rear brake, the reservoir will LOOK full, but it isn't. After a few strokes, you'll be pumping air. When I'm bleeding rear brakes I keep the reservoir filled to the brim, then suction out any excess after I'm done.
Ahh rats. So do you think that I need to re-bleed the master?

EDIT: Just re-read this and understood it better. I definitely never went that low in the reservoir -- I think that the most that i ever let the fluid drop was 1/5 of the way from full to empty.

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Last edited by Mölyapina; 01-15-2016 at 11:21 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2016, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mölyapina View Post
Ahh rats. So do you think that I need to re-bleed the master?

EDIT: Just re-read this and understood it better. I definitely never went that low in the reservoir -- I think that the most that i ever let the fluid drop was 1/5 of the way from full to empty.
I'll probably start WW3 by saying that bench bleeding is a waste of time. But it is!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2016, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mölyapina View Post
@Stretch: ................
.........
The reason I was thinking of leaving both bleeders open was in case there was an air bubble at a junction point or something that was messing me up -- is that unlikely/silly?.........
Very silly. Always work with one bleeder at a time.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2016, 08:56 AM
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A guy on this forum taught me a neat way of getting all the air out.These cars can be a pain.After regular bleeding,if pedal is still low,take a stick,and press brake pedal overnight.For some reason it works every time.
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:35 AM
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There is an internal dam in the reservoir, the front portion of the reservoir is for the back brakes and the rear portion of the reservoir is for the front brakes. When you are bleeding the front brakes, the level in the rear portion of the reservoir will decrease. But when you look at the reservoir it will still look full because the front portion hasn't decreased in fluid volume. You have to really look at the back portion of the reservoir to make sure the fluid hasn't gone down to low or else you will be pumping air back into the front brake circuit. I would splurge on a pressure brake bleeder. I bought a motive power brake bleeder. It has allowed me to pressure bleed the brakes on my 300d in 10-15min. I didn't have to bother a friend to help me. Also, since my 300d is over 30 years old, I don't know the previous maintenance history. You can damage the internal seals in a master cylinder on an old vehicle when pressing on the brake pedal to far while bleeding the brakes. Then you would have to get a new master cylinder, which is pricey. Also, I was able to totally flush my braking system with new Pentosin brake fluid with the power brake bleeder in 25 min.
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  #21  
Old 01-16-2016, 11:41 AM
Fueled by coffee
 
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Well, everyone, Molyapina just stopped by my house ten minutes ago to borrow my pressure bleeder. Hopefully, that'll help him get the job done. I'll find out later today.
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  #22  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicBus View Post
Well, everyone, Molyapina just stopped by my house ten minutes ago to borrow my pressure bleeder. Hopefully, that'll help him get the job done. I'll find out later today.
After watching your power bleeder in action thats next on my toy to buy list
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
After watching your power bleeder in action thats next on my toy to buy list
Dude, don't BUY one. BUILD one!:
The DIY $20 brake bleeder

Mine's homebuilt. Just as good as the commercially-available one, and MUCH cheaper!

You're MORE than capable of putting one of these together in a lazy afternoon (or much faster).
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  #24  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:41 PM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicBus View Post
Dude, don't BUY one. BUILD one!:
The DIY $20 brake bleeder

Mine's homebuilt. Just as good as the commercially-available one, and MUCH cheaper!

You're MORE than capable of putting one of these together in a lazy afternoon (or much faster).
Thats what you did? That was nicely put together and very usable, i may do this.

Molyapina did get the brakes bled and working with the bleeder.
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  #25  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
Thats what you did? That was nicely put together and very usable, i may do this.

Molyapina did get the brakes bled and working with the bleeder.
Indeed I did. Homebuilt with Home Depot parts. Took maybe $20 to put it together. Inflation may have brought that number up a bit now...? I built mine years ago.

Spoiler alert - the car is on the road! Incidentally, I hope Molyapina doesn't mind me posting these, but I snapped a few photos when he stopped by to return the tool:







Clean car. I suspect he'll be very happy with it.
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  #26  
Old 01-17-2016, 02:44 AM
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Right that's it I'm reporting you all - driving a Mercedes with out the star up front is not allowed!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 01-17-2016, 05:08 PM
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I use the HF vacuum hand-pump bleeder shown above, in conjunction w/ a helper at the pedal. My wife now has down the call-response method: "up-up", "down-down". The show Wheeler Dealers showed them doing exactly the same in real British English. You will suck some air past the bleeder threads w/ the vac pump, which could appear like bubbles from the caliper. If that bothers you, smear silicone grease on the threads to stop it. You should always bleed one caliper at a time, not the two you are trying. The brakes are designed with small passages so that air bubbles are swept thru. I like to use the pedal too because it helps clean the MC bore (if not new) and the fast pulses help sweep debris from the tubes. I put DOT 5 (silicone) in both my 300D's so I may never deal with rusty brake fluid again. Otherwise, DOT 4 or 5.1 (glycol) lasts longer and should be OK if you bleed thru new fluid every 4 years (depending on where you live) and if the rubber test caps on your reservoir aren't split and letting in moisture.
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  #28  
Old 01-17-2016, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Right that's it I'm reporting you all - driving a Mercedes with out the star up front is not allowed!
Right!

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  #29  
Old 01-17-2016, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Right that's it I'm reporting you all - driving a Mercedes with out the star up front is not allowed!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
Right!

Hold your horses, gentlemen. The car still has six stars:
  1. The smaller star in the laurel on the top front of the grill.
  2. One star on each of four hubcaps.
  3. The steering wheel center star.

I believe Molyapina intends to replace the other hood star (we searched and failed to find one in my parts stash) and the trunk star.
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  #30  
Old 01-18-2016, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicBus View Post
Hold your horses, gentlemen. The car still has six stars:
  1. The smaller star in the laurel on the top front of the grill.
  2. One star on each of four hubcaps.
  3. The steering wheel center star.

I believe Molyapina intends to replace the other hood star (we searched and failed to find one in my parts stash) and the trunk star.
Sorry but the rules clearly state the one on the front is what matters...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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